Battery Overheating

[RWeis]

I was on a long road trip(500 miles) which I have done 5-6 times without issues. I have an premium2021 with the large battery. After charging twice without issues the third I got an alert that the battery was overheating which would effect battery charging performance which it did in that that charging rate dropped. I stopped charging and it took 20 minutes or so that I could finish charging. This repeated at my last two charging stops. All were on 350 fast chargers except the last one was on a 180 charger. Did the same on the way back two weeks later charging fine the first two times and the rest repeated the same process. I am assuming there is an issue with the battery cooling system or coolant. Has anyone else experienced this as I have never heard about it before. Have an appt with dealer but he was without any suggestions about what it might be. Thoughts thanks

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[Mach-Lee]

I would pop the top frunk cover off and check the coolant level in the coolant bottle. Use Motorcraft Yellow coolant to refill. If your car was recently serviced, they may not have filled or bled the air out of the battery cooling system properly, causing it to be low. Sort of like an air embolism.

You may also have a coolant pump or coolant chiller failure. If you send me your VIN I can check.

 

[RWeis]

Thanks, it does look like the coolant bottle is empty and I had the recall of the battery connectors about 2 months ago. Will get some coolant tomorrow. Thanks so much

 

[Mach-Lee]

Thanks, it does look like the coolant bottle is empty and I had the recall of the battery connectors about 2 months ago. Will get some coolant tomorrow. Thanks so much

Yeah fill that up ASAP. I have a makeshift bleed procedure for you since you can’t do the official one:

1. Fill coolant reservoir to full line with 50% (or premixed) Motorcraft Yellow coolant.
2. Turn on the car and select max defrost. Monitor the reservoir as it runs and fill if it gets low. The aluminum tube on the firewall next to the brake fluid reservoir should get HOT. Verify heat output from defrost vents. Run for at least 5 minutes.
3. Shut off HVAC.
4. Navigate to a DC charger <18 miles away in the Ford nav. Coolant pump should start when you hit go. Let that run for at least 10 minutes and continue topping up coolant as necessary.
5. Top off coolant to full line and drive to a >100 kW DC charger, arrive with less than 50% charge. Shut off HVAC. DC charge for at least 15 minutes. Monitor and top off coolant again if necessary.
6. Drive the car normally, and check the coolant level again in a week or two.

That should get most of the air out.

FYI there is a second identical coolant reservoir you should also check. It’s above the front passenger wheel, and under the passenger side frunk cover. You might be able to see it with just the top cover off. If that one also looks low, fill it up with the same coolant. Check again in a week or two if it was low.

 

[RWeis]

So why does the cap list KPA/PSI listed? Is it under pressure?

 

[bbhaag]

So why does the cap list KPA/PSI listed? Is it under pressure?

Yes, most if not all coolant systems in vehicles dating back to the 1940's are under pressure especially as the coolant expands within the closed loop system. It's heat related man. Thermal expansion if you will.

This is only an issue when the vehicle is hot. Let it cool down for several hours then top off the coolant.

 

[Mach-Lee]

So why does the cap list KPA/PSI listed? Is it under pressure?

It's the same bottle/cap Ford uses for ICE vehicles. The coolant doesn't get nearly as hot as an ICE engine (does not reach boiling temp), so there will be minimal pressure. It's safe to open on EVs at any temp (don't need to wait to cool down). I've opened mine many times in all conditions including hot and there's only a little hiss at the most. Again, it's not hot enough to boil and go shooting out like an ICE.

 

[MoonRiver]

Yeah fill that up ASAP. I have a makeshift bleed procedure for you since you can’t do the official one:

1. Fill coolant reservoir to full line with 50% (or premixed) Motorcraft Yellow coolant.
2. Turn on the car and select max defrost. Monitor the reservoir as it runs and fill if it gets low. The aluminum tube on the firewall next to the brake fluid reservoir should get HOT. Verify heat output from defrost vents. Run for at least 5 minutes.
3. Shut off HVAC.
4. Navigate to a DC charger <18 miles away in the Ford nav. Coolant pump should start when you hit go. Let that run for at least 10 minutes and continue topping up coolant as necessary.
5. Top off coolant to full line and drive to a >100 kW DC charger, arrive with less than 50% charge. Shut off HVAC. DC charge for at least 15 minutes. Monitor and top off coolant again if necessary.
6. Drive the car normally, and check the coolant level again in a week or two.

That should get most of the air out.

FYI there is a second identical coolant reservoir you should also check. It’s above the front passenger wheel, and under the passenger side frunk cover. You might be able to see it with just the top cover off. If that one also looks low, fill it up with the same coolant. Check again in a week or two if it was low.

Great makeshift for DIY. Is the cap of coolant bottle supposed to be uncapped the whole time to let the air out?

 

[Mach-Lee]

Great makeshift for DIY. Is the cap of coolant bottle supposed to be uncapped the whole time to let the air out?

Yes, but it put it back on before you drive anywhere.

 

[Ford Motor Company]

I was on a long road trip(500 miles) which I have done 5-6 times without issues. I have an premium2021 with the large battery. After charging twice without issues the third I got an alert that the battery was overheating which would effect battery charging performance which it did in that that charging rate dropped. I stopped charging and it took 20 minutes or so that I could finish charging. This repeated at my last two charging stops. All were on 350 fast chargers except the last one was on a 180 charger. Did the same on the way back two weeks later charging fine the first two times and the rest repeated the same process. I am assuming there is an issue with the battery cooling system or coolant. Has anyone else experienced this as I have never heard about it before. Have an appt with dealer but he was without any suggestions about what it might be. Thoughts thanks

Hi there. This concern with your battery doesn’t sound like something we want you to experience. Please send us a DM with your VIN and preferred dealer so we can investigate things on our end. Thanks!

 

[RWeis]

Not sure how to direct message(DM) you. I have been in contact with Ford EV specialist Justin G. Ext-79524; by email from9/11 and left voicemails but no response. Is he on vacation??? Will direct message you with my VIN when I know your contact information. The occurrence # with Justin is CXH-02551723-Y4M2X2. My dealer is Orourke Motors in Tipton Iowa.

 

[Ford Motor Company]

Not sure how to direct message(DM) you. I have been in contact with Ford EV specialist Justin G. Ext-79524; by email from9/11 and left voicemails but no response. Is he on vacation??? Will direct message you with my VIN when I know your contact information. The occurrence # with Justin is CXH-02551723-Y4M2X2. My dealer is Orourke Motors in Tipton Iowa.

Thank you for getting back to us! Can you please send over this info as a private message? I will be able to assist you as soon as you reach out to us privately. To send a private message, you can click our name and select 'start conversation'.

 

[zvez]

Not sure how to direct message(DM) you. I have been in contact with Ford EV specialist Justin G. Ext-79524; by email from9/11 and left voicemails but no response. Is he on vacation??? Will direct message you with my VIN when I know your contact information. The occurrence # with Justin is CXH-02551723-Y4M2X2. My dealer is Orourke Motors in Tipton Iowa.

click on the ford icon to the left of the ford company message in this thread, opens a window, click on lower right corner "start conversation" that'll get you there

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