The GOM and nav don’t take into account elevation change, climate controls, outside temp , or speed you plan to drive. So, I’m not sure your reply is valid or helpful.
I agree but that is my point. It takes all those into account based on past driving, but also current battery and climate conditions.
I believe you are at least partially mistaken: it CLEARLY takes current ambient temperature into account. It also clearly tries to factor in past driving habits, which is why resetting history makes such a big change. Using the nav, it does anecdotally make a better estimate. Unless you are privy to Ford's algorithm, we are simply guessing about how the GOM works - which is ironic to say the least ?.
Actually, it both holds less and releases less. If you warm up the battery, you may get better range as it can use more of the stored-up charge in the battery. See this post by Mach-Lee for a graph showing the effect.Additionally to what @Kabish said, the battery chemistry is less active when the battery is cold. The colder it gets, the less active it is. When the chemistry is less active, it holds less charge, which is the crux of the problem. If you can keep your battery at 70 degrees F all the time, you will not have these issues. Unfortunately, there is no way to keep the battery always at 70 degrees F. ??
Helps to start to understand your consumption for different situations and don't count on the GOM blindly. There can easily be a 15% consumption swing based on head vs tail winds. Does the NAV take your travel time winds into account? The GOM should take the ambient temperature factor into account but a change in your speed, winds and plowing though snow are on you. Finding it takes more planning/thinking which may be the case until chargers out number gas pumps up here.
The battery doesn't charge to a range, just like you didn't fill your ICE car with miles. The electricity is the fuel that powers the car. How far it goes depends on multiple factors, as you're finding out. Same was true of ICE cars but there was less need to keep track with fuel available everywhere.
The good thing is max range only really matters when you are on trips using DCFC and knowing the distances between chargers coming up. For the majority of my ownerships I have charged at home which was never the case for gas cars. The range is normally enough for the majority of peoples normal day commutes and when you come home you just plug it in. It comes on at night and charges it to the charging schedule that you set up and you are ready again to go for the next morning. Never drive into a gas station again. Fill up with cheaper energy at the comfort of your home.
Actually the EPA published range is a combined range that factors in some city driving so it's inflated even more than just driving at 55. One of my major complaints with that range. Much like ICE cars get a city and hwy MPG, EVs should get a hwy only range figure. I believe Ford under reports their official EPA range so it's closer to the highway range you might actually see.
There's a couple youtube channels that do 70 mph range tests. And Car and Driver does a 75mph range test. So the data is out there, but I agree, it should be on the window sticker.
I charge to 80. Take range, divide by 4 multiply by 5.
Yes but the "range" value in your statement is using Ford's conservative algorithm so your result can (and often will) be different than simply displaying a value based off the epa range x current charge.
