Compatibility Question

[TRP]

With all the talk of outlet fires/failures and what not...............I want to make sure I do the right thing.

So......Just bought the wife a 2023 Nissan Ariya, I believe it charges at 32amp max. We are upgrading our electric service to 200 amp and trying to decide on an appropriate EVSE. Strongly leaning towards a hardwired installation at 48amp.

I just want to make sure this is not an issue for her car. A google search says it will be fine...but...trust issues with that info

What say you?

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[Blue highway]

Having an EVSE that is capable of supplying 48A does not mean that the car will ask for 48A. The Car and EVSE handshake on the amount of amps the car will draw from the EVSE up to the maximum amount of current the EVSE can supply. Depending on the car and EVSE, each can be set for a maximum current level.

When it comes to wiring, it is a good idea to wire the EVSE for the maximum amount of Amps the EVSE can draw. The EVSE does not know if it is connected to wiring capable of 48A or 20A... so be safe and wire the EVSE for the highest amperage the EVSE can deliver.

Hardwiring is inherently more robust electrically than using an outlet as there are less electrical joints in the circuit. Each joint (connection of a wire to a screw or a socket to a pin introduces some resistance and therefore heat)

 

[TRP]

Having an EVSE that is capable of supplying 48A does not mean that the car will ask for 48A. The Car and EVSE handshake on the amount of amps the car will draw from the EVSE up to the maximum amount of current the EVSE can supply. Depending on the car and EVSE, each can be set for a maximum current level.

When it comes to wiring, it is a good idea to wire the EVSE for the maximum amount of Amps the EVSE can draw. The EVSE does not know if it is connected to wiring capable of 48A or 20A... so be safe and wire the EVSE for the highest amperage the EVSE can deliver.

Hardwiring is inherently more robust electrically than using an outlet as there are less electrical joints in the circuit. Each joint (connection of a wire to a screw or a socket to a pin introduces some resistance and therefore heat)

Thank you. I am admittedly electrically challenged, so it is best I ask before I tell an electrician what I want/need.

 

[HuntingPudel]

If the electrician is worth his salt you can tell him that your EVSE draws 48A continuously. From that he/she should know that it needs to be hard-wired with 6AWG copper wire. Most EVSEs also include wiring instructions so also present him/her with the instructions. ??

 

[TRP]

If the electrician is worth his salt you can tell him that your EVSE draws 48A continuously. From that he/she should know that it needs to be hard-wired with 6AWG copper wire. Most EVSEs also include wiring instructions so also present him/her with the instructions. ??

I will do exactly that

 

[Larry Paul]

Having driven EVs for over 26 years, I recommend putting in the wiring for the largest charger you may need, but there are advantages to installing a lower power draw charger.

not in any specific order:

1) If you have solar and want to charge during the day-off the sun, peak solar output may limit how many hours a faster charger like one that draws 48A can charge during peak energy generation times. A colleague with a Tesla was struggling to charge during power outages from the sun /generator until I showed them the slider that would enable the car to draw less power during charging. Something finally enabled in the 2025 MME, but most EVs don’t have that.

2) How fast do you need to charge While at home? If your car is recharged in 4 hours overnight or 2 hours overnight-what does that matter? If you can recover 16 miles while you sleep, does it really matter if the car is fully charged at home the next day? How often does one drive more that 100 miles the day after driving more than 100 miles the next day, that does not have access to DCFC?

3) Batteries will last longer with less stress and in less heat. Faster charging=more heat And stress (see point number2)

4) What other devices do you have that may run at the same time? AC, pool pump, oven, stove, 2nd or 3rd EV -now or in the future? I have had 4 EV chargers going at once and that happened because I never installed an EVSE that could deliver more that 32A (7.2kW). 200A is to the whole house… how much power in the garage? Is it a sub panel?

My2 cents.

 

[TRP]

4) What other devices do you have that may run at the same time? AC, pool pump, oven, stove, 2nd or 3rd EV -now or in the future? I have had 4 EV chargers going at once and that happened because I never installed an EVSE that could deliver more that 32A (7.2kW). 200A is to the whole house… how much power in the garage? Is it a sub panel?

My2 cents.

Garage will have 2 garage door openers, a couple of overhead lights, 3 or 4 outlets, and a 40 or 48amp EVSE (I own a 40amp now). 2 EVs but no need to charge at the same time. I also need space to eventually run a couple of outlets to a patio area. I think a 100amp sub panel is needed.

 

[luckie]

Garage will have 2 garage door openers, a couple of overhead lights, 3 or 4 outlets, and a 40 or 48amp EVSE (I own a 40amp now). 2 EVs but no need to charge at the same time. I also need space to eventually run a couple of outlets to a patio area. I think a 100amp sub panel is needed.

Could get a Grizzl-E duo (one charger with two cables).

 

[Larry Paul]

Garage will have 2 garage door openers, a couple of overhead lights, 3 or 4 outlets, and a 40 or 48amp EVSE (I own a 40amp now). 2 EVs but no need to charge at the same time. I also need space to eventually run a couple of outlets to a patio area. I think a 100amp sub panel is needed.

A 100A sub panel has a max continuous load of 80A. So if you ever want to charge two at the same time and either one is a 48A, the other cannot be a 40A.

My main point is do you need a 40 or 48A charger at home if the car will have enough power by the morning for the next days's task. Think about the use of the car and potential of needing 2 or more EV's to charge at the same time.

 

[moog]

Best rule to follow: Hardwire it.

Second best rule to follow: Hardwire it.

Also....torque those screws to spec.

 

[Larry Paul]

Best rule to follow: Hardwire it.

Second best rule to follow: Hardwire it.

Also....torque those screws to spec.

While hardwiring is the safest, I will add, IF you are going to use a plug/socket and not hardwire it, I would strongly recommend that you use a very high quality items from a reputable supplier. What you don't want is this:

You get the point.

With all of that said, While I have used both hardwired and receptacles, but since the NEC changed to allow connectors I tend to only install receptacles, but only use Leviton heavy duty parts and have never had an issue. I also don't ever draw over 32A with my EVSE equipment and I do not often unplug the L50-14 (so I probably could use a hardwired connection).

Here is one reference.
https://shalasalon.com/heavy-duty-nema-14-50-receptacle/

 

[fkyct]

With all the talk of outlet fires/failures and what not...............I want to make sure I do the right thing.

So......Just bought the wife a 2023 Nissan Ariya, I believe it charges at 32amp max. We are upgrading our electric service to 200 amp and trying to decide on an appropriate EVSE. Strongly leaning towards a hardwired installation at 48amp.

I just want to make sure this is not an issue for her car. A google search says it will be fine...but...trust issues with that info

What say you?

Congratulations on the new Ariya.

Any EV car will communicate with the charger and limit the charger output to the most the car can take. I believe the Ariya is limited to 32 or 30 amps, as was my Nissan Leaf.

You are smart installing a 48 amp hard wired EVSE aka "Charger" so when you get your next EV you can charge at 48 amps. The electrician will know when reading the installation instructions for the charger that the 48 amp charger needs a 60 amp circuit.

 

[fkyct]

With all the talk of outlet fires/failures and what not...............I want to make sure I do the right thing.

So......Just bought the wife a 2023 Nissan Ariya, I believe it charges at 32amp max. We are upgrading our electric service to 200 amp and trying to decide on an appropriate EVSE. Strongly leaning towards a hardwired installation at 48amp.

I just want to make sure this is not an issue for her car. A google search says it will be fine...but...trust issues with that info

What say you?

As far as EVSE aka "chargers" goes, I always recommend the Tesla UNIVERSAL Wall connector. It can charge most any EVSE, (J1772 and TESLA NACS). It has a 4 year warranty.

Eventually all new EVs with have Tesla NACS Charging ports. The UNIVERSAL Wall connector has both plugs attached without having to fumble for an adaptor.

 

[67 Stang Convertible]

Having driven EVs for over 26 years,

You have me beat my 22 years!! Damn, talk about an early adopter!!!

 

[Larry Paul]

If the electrician is worth his salt you can tell him that your EVSE draws 48A continuously. From that he/she should know that it needs to be hard-wired with 6AWG copper wire. Most EVSEs also include wiring instructions so also present him/her with the instructions. ??

I always have the electrician use 6AWG wire for my wiring that I only use a 32A EVSE on. Don’t save money on smaller gage wire.

You have me beat my 22 years!! Damn, talk about an early adopter!!!

22 years is also amazing and way cool.

We are also still driving our 1 owner 2002 Rav4EV- with batteries also made in 2002 and designed over 30 years ago (NiMh)

It has been 26 years with a car with my name on it in our driveway (started with a Honda EV Plus), but my first behind the wheel was the fall of 1996...when I test drove a GM EV1. My life changed like a light switch a few seconds after leaving the Saturn dealership.

https://www.smerconish.com/exclusive-content/25-years-of-driving-electric-vehicles/

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