Many of us use a mobile app like CarScanner or Torque with an OBD scan device, see below. Plenty of topics on this in the forum. Do some research first as you want to avoid 12v drain that they can cause.I realize capacity is affected by temp, but I don't have a way to view actual battery capacity, what is this scan tool you speak of? How is it calculating the kWh used?
And most importantly, make sure that OBD device works with EVs; I bought one first that doesn't and had to return it.Many of us use a mobile app like CarScanner or Torque with an OBD scan device, see below. Plenty of topics on this in the forum. Do some research first as you want to avoid 12v drain that they can cause.
LOL I bought one about 6 months before I took delivery of my MME. It worked in my Fusion Energi. It actually also works in the MME, but it does not work with CarScanner. The app that it works with doesn't report nearly as much stuff as CarScanner, so I bought a different one so I could use CarScanner. ??And most importantly, make sure that OBD device works with EVs; I bought one first that doesn't and had to return it.
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Interesting! The battery is actually 75.7 kWh with 68 useable. I’m surprised that it’s that much less than advertised at 61 kWh. Maybe because it’s 45 outside and that’s the reduction in capacity noted? I assumed when researching the vehicle that the blocked 10% capacity was a safeguard for those charging to 100% and that it would absorb the impact of temperature. I wonder why it’s actually blocked.And most importantly, make sure that OBD device works with EVs; I bought one first that doesn't and had to return it.
I recently got this one -
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088LW211V?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 and use an old phone with CarScanner app
My biggest surprise so far was that it's not 68 KWh battery, at least in near-freezing temperatures, it's actually below 60
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Btw, I use this phone holder and found it quite convenient -
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B6HZB7L2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
There are several reasons to reserve capacity on a battery. The first is simply because they want to ensure that the battery never gets charged to 100% of physical capacity for longevity reasons. The next would be to allow reallocation of capacity as the battery ages. There are other reasons as well, including thermal, recharge (regenerative braking) at high SoC management, etc. ??Interesting! The battery is actually 75.7 kWh with 68 useable. I’m surprised that it’s that much less than advertised at 61 kWh. Maybe because it’s 45 outside and that’s the reduction in capacity noted? I assumed when researching the vehicle that the blocked 10% capacity was a safeguard for those charging to 100% and that it would absorb the impact of temperature. I wonder why it’s actually blocked.
Have you noted any 12v draw with that unit? Why not just use the phone you carry around with you?
If the phone stays connected - yes. It's not a big deal for an hour or so, if it stays for a few hours - FordPass and the car pop up a message that the electrical drain is detected. I normally shut the phone down if I'm not planning to drive for a few hours. With the phone off, or disconnected from the unit I didn't notice any effect on the battery.Have you noted any 12v draw with that unit? Why not just use the phone you carry around with you?
High speed absolutely has a big impact on mileage. But 3.4 MPK vs 2.8 for the difference between 65 MPH vs 60 sounds unusually large (18% less). Something doesn't sound quite right there. The 2.8 sounds reasonable but 3.4 seems high.Speed - I was really surprised at the impact speed has on consumption. Obviously, the data is a little confounded by outside temp, but I was hoping to wash that out with repeats and randomization. The difference between 65 mph and 70 mph is huge! I should get ~40 miles more per full charge by doing 65mph, 3.4 mi/kWh vs. 2.8 mi/kWh. I found that really surprising! So yeah, on my daily commute, I am that guy doing 65 mph... ?
I might try this, or just feet instead of dash vents. The key is probably turning on recirculating.Once I get on the road I turn on E-heat with dash vents only active and recirc on.
I think others have given good responses already. I have an OBDLink MX+ and I use the Car Scanner app as shown in the other posts.Thank for the input, Lee!
I realize capacity is affected by temp, but I don't have a way to view actual battery capacity, what is this scan tool you speak of? How is it calculating the kWh used?
Let me know what that tool is. If it's reasonably priced, and doesn't require disassembly of the vehicle to use it, I might throw that into the mix.
Supposedly this (Face+Recirc) is a "loophole" in the HVAC programming that allows recirc to stay active indefinitely (I haven't tried it yet since I'm fine with AUTO). But yes with no fresh air you would get fogging eventually. Below about 15ÂşF the fogging will probably get bad in about 5-10 minutes.I might try this, or just feet instead of dash vents. The key is probably turning on recirculating.
With recirculating turned on, don't you get glass fogging?
Seeing mid threes isn’t uncommon for me at 65 mph (which is posted highway speed limit around here). I run minimal climate on my daily commute(different when the wife’s in the car), and the drive is pretty flat. Almost 80 of my 83 mile drive is highway. Colder temps have dropped me into the low threes at 65. Of course there are exceptions, like wind and such that push me into the high twos.High speed absolutely has a big impact on mileage. But 3.4 MPK vs 2.8 for the difference between 65 MPH vs 60 sounds unusually large (18% less). Something doesn't sound quite right there. The 2.8 sounds reasonable but 3.4 seems high.