Eibach GT performance springs on a 4xer

[markboris]

Ok, I have a couple questions. I noticed in the instructions for the springs, that you are supposed to take note of the orientation of the upper and lower perches. Is the perch the lower and top pads, the rubber pads that the springs rest on?

I did make sure that the rubber pads were in the proper place on the struts. But now I’m second guessing myself. I have not changed out springs in a long, long time. I have only driven the car maybe 20-25 miles since I added them and I am getting a little pop noice occasionally when I hit some speed bumps. I know it takes time for everything to settle and I have the alignment scheduled for Thursday as my mechanic recommended at least 500 miles before I bring it in.

Am I just hearing it settling in or did I do something wrong?

There are two tabs that need to be aligned at the top bearing plate then they have to be inline with a notch on the perch before tightening down the spring.

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[rsaylor3]

OK, thank you so much! That was my fear, but that’ll be an easy fix. Honestly, I’m not sure where we placed that tab, thought it was a strange design that it didn’t have a studs coming up from that plate with just nuts under the hood. Made it somewhat a pain in the butt too align the bolts from the top. I’ll double check that and pull the wheels and adjust as needed.

Still loving the new ride! Really can’t wait to get out and drive it more

 

[markboris]

OK, thank you so much! That was my fear, but that’ll be an easy fix. Honestly, I’m not sure where we placed that tab, thought it was a strange design that it didn’t have a studs coming up from that plate with just nuts under the hood. Made it somewhat a pain in the butt too align the bolts from the top. I’ll double check that and pull the wheels and adjust as needed.

Still loving the new ride! Really can’t wait to get out and drive it more

As long as those two upper tabs were aligned before tightening down the spring, then yes It won't be an issue to align them with the bottom notch if it is not aligned now. Otherwise if the two top tabs are not aligned, you will have to pull it back out and remove the top bearing plate to alight them. They will not move unless the top bearing plate is removed.

 

[rsaylor3]

We were able to turn those entire top sections to line up the upper three bolts. If we were able to turn them, does that mean we did not have the top nuts torqued down enough?

 

[rsaylor3]

I realize what you just said now. I’ve read it slightly wrong. So having those top two tabs aligned before tightening down the top nut is what’s important and then making sure those two together aligned at the top the line with the one on the bottom. I’ll check out later today. Appreciate the help!

 

[azerik]

Those are the two tabs that I’m pretty sure are not lined up on my car exactly which is causing me to wanna just replace the front struts anyway just for fun so that I can go ahead and make sure that those are lined up because if I’m gonna take them off, I might as well replace them.
glad to hear you’re happy with the ride! These kind of posts cause a ‘dammit I love this car again.’
Randy, are you still using the stock rear shocks off the premium?

 

[rsaylor3]

Well, this afternoon I pulled both front wheels off and pulled out the strut assembly. Out of purely luck I did have them both align properly!

So now I went out for a drive and I’m still getting the clunks upfront, but I’m guessing that’s just the settling of the springs. The back I only heard it make any noises for the first few miles of driving after I installed them. Hope the Front settles down soon. I bought the new camber bolts that you recommended and I’m having an alignment on Thursday.

 

[mkhuffman]

Well, this afternoon I pulled both front wheels off and pulled out the strut assembly. Out of purely luck I did have them both align properly!

So now I went out for a drive and I’m still getting the clunks upfront, but I’m guessing that’s just the settling of the springs. The back I only heard it make any noises for the first few miles of driving after I installed them. Hope the Front settles down soon. I bought the new camber bolts that you recommended and I’m having an alignment on Thursday.

This is why people who mod their cars need to go into it with their eyes wide open. Wide.

My MME is the first vehicle I have modified. In the past, it was just rims and tires. On my MME I replaced the front and rear sway bars, and did a ton of other things (the list is long). I have learned that you really need to be committed to do it. Mark Boris is a special person. He loves modifying cars, and he has done some amazing things to his MME.

Personally I have some regret about all the mods I have made. The Steeda front sway bar was a big mistake. (You can read about the problems in the Steeda sway bar thread.). The Steeda rear sway bar is fine, except when I have the car loaded down, the rear bar hits when going over bumps. Hits. WTH?

Ford has engineers designing parts to work properly on the car. They test, and test, and test. And then the car is released. With problems that are fixed by Ford. When you put aftermarket parts on your car, you are taking a chance it will cause unexpected issues. Like things hitting, rubbing and failing. If you are committed to fixing those issues, go for it.

My next vehicle will not have the modifications I have made to this one. I just don't have Mark's passion for modifying cars. Maybe when I retire i will take it up as a hobby and then maybe I will dive back into the mod fun. Maybe.

 

[azerik]

My front makes a low pitched clunk sometimes that sounds a lot like the sway bar, but I found that it’s actually different based upon the tire pressure that I run in the front. It’s usually when hitting speed bumps.

 

[rsaylor3]

We did Corcksport lowering springs on my son’s Mazda 3. It took several days before the clunks went away and hasn’t made a noise since. I know springs take time to settle and I only have 200 miles on them. I think all will be well, but am always looking for insight from those that came before me.

I love the ride of the new springs and the bars!

 

[rsaylor3]

There are two tabs that need to be aligned at the top bearing plate then they have to be inline with a notch on the perch before tightening down the spring.

Mark, do you have a photo of how you installed the eibach bump stops in the front shocks?

 

[markboris]

Mark, do you have a photo of how you installed the eibach bump stops in the front shocks?

Sorry Randy but I don’t.

 

[azerik]

Mark, do you have a photo of how you installed the eibach bump stops in the front shocks?

Its pointy end down. They get pushed all the way to the top of the strut when the strut bottoms out then it stays there.

 

[rsaylor3]

Its pointy end down. They get pushed all the way to the top of the strut when the strut bottoms out then it stays there.

ok, that’s what I did. The wider side fit up nicely into the shock tube cover.

I will just get some miles on it

 

[rsaylor3]

Well, I had my shop take it for a drive and he thought the sound I was hearing, was coming from the top strut mount. So I replaced the top mount, the bearing and both the top and bottom insulator. It’s still making the noise. So I can taking it into them and have them check it over. Possibly something touching or maybe the alignment is off enough for things to touch on very rough bumps. I’m out of ideas

if you have any, let me know

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