Electrical issues, broken Mach e

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We purchased a 2021 Ford Mustang Mach e premium extended range model with 20 miles on the odometer. On our way home from dealership while traveling 65 mph with 55 miles on the odometer the vehicle started flashing the following codes listed below on the dash screen.

1) Service vehicle soon
2) Pre collision assist not available
3) AWD fault Service required
4) 1 Pedal Drive fault, Press brake pedal to reduce speed
5) Stop safely now
6) Service Advance Trac
7) Full accessory power active

The car now has 1500 miles and this same thing has happened 5 more times. It seems like this happens more frequently at slower speeds with 1 pedal drive active when you are releasing your foot from accelerator pedal and preparing to stop. When this happens at slower speeds while preparing to stop at a stop sign the vehicle makes some very strange sounds like electrical motors clashing and the vehicle jerks back and forth very quickly several times. This has also happened at higher speeds with auto pilot active. I have noticed the weird sounds out the vehicle jerking back and forth when at higher speeds, 60 mph +. Only at slower speeds when preparing to stop.

When this happens the following messages appear on the ford pass app.

Ford Mustang Mach-E Electrical issues, broken Mach e 3EBAEE0A-19E4-4E6B-8DCC-1A27C9C1DB8F
Ford Mustang Mach-E Electrical issues, broken Mach e 4B7F598B-9A35-49B2-9093-9E67E4A3EE4E
Ford Mustang Mach-E Electrical issues, broken Mach e 2A6FCC7B-F2AE-48E2-BC0C-5CE3E76FA21C
Ford Mustang Mach-E Electrical issues, broken Mach e B4FA36BD-B4BA-47CC-B372-8F3B73685916

The vehicle has been back into the Ford service shop twice and is currently at the Ford dealership now.
Ford has not been able to figure out what is causing this to happen. Please let me know your thoughts and or recommendations. Any help would be appreciated.
 
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Kamuelaflyer

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Park it at home and turn it off. Call the dealer and make an appointment with the service department. Let them know what you're seeing. After it's been turned off for a good deal of time, turn it back on and see if the messages have cleared. If so, take it into the dealer for a check-up anyway. Have them apply the various SSM's and technical bulletins for your car while its there.

It'll get taken care of.
 

Kamuelaflyer

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SSM 49545 - 2020 Escape, 2020-2021 Corsair, 2021 Bronco Sport, 2021 Mustang Mach-E – Various Warning Messages With Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) C1B00:62 In Power SteeringControl Module (PSCM)

Some 2020 Escape, 2020-2021 Corsair, 2021 Bronco Sport and 2021 Mustang Mach-E vehicles may exhibit DTC C1B00:62 present in the PSCM with any of the following messages displayed: Service Advance Trac, Hill Start Assist Not Available, Lane Keeping Sys. Malfunction Service Required, or Pre-Collision Assist Not Available. This may be due to a disconnected or discharged battery, recent PSCM or anti-lock brake system (ABS) module reprogram or configuration, or loss of ABS communication to the PSCM. The Workshop Manual pinpoint test is in the process of being updated and replacement of the electronic power assist steering (EPAS) column is not necessary. To clear the DTC, drive the vehicle straight for 30 seconds at speeds over 50 km/h (30 mph). Cycle the ignition on/off once complete. For claiming use causal part 3C529.
 
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Park it at home and turn it off. Call the dealer and make an appointment with the service department. Let them know what you're seeing. After it's been turned off for a good deal of time, turn it back on and see if the messages have cleared. If so, take it into the dealer for a check-up anyway. Have them apply the various SSM's and technical bulletins for your car while its there.

It'll get taken care of.
After turning the vehicle off for awhile the fault codes do go away. I have had the car back to dealership twice now and it is currently there now. They claim to have installed all updates and are now waiting for a Ford engineer to inspect vehicle. Problem is that the ford engineer is three to four weeks out and I am driving an eco sport!

image.jpg
 


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How's the charge level on your 12v battery? Because I think the modules that monitor all that stuff run on the 12v battery. I think I'd be suspicious of that.
Not 100% sure of charge level of 12V battery. I have not had any issues starting vehicle.
What is best way to test charge level of the 12V battery?
 

GrumblesTheDog

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SSM 49545 - 2020 Escape, 2020-2021 Corsair, 2021 Bronco Sport, 2021 Mustang Mach-E – Various Warning Messages With Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) C1B00:62 In Power SteeringControl Module (PSCM)

Some 2020 Escape, 2020-2021 Corsair, 2021 Bronco Sport and 2021 Mustang Mach-E vehicles may exhibit DTC C1B00:62 present in the PSCM with any of the following messages displayed: Service Advance Trac, Hill Start Assist Not Available, Lane Keeping Sys. Malfunction Service Required, or Pre-Collision Assist Not Available. This may be due to a disconnected or discharged battery, recent PSCM or anti-lock brake system (ABS) module reprogram or configuration, or loss of ABS communication to the PSCM. The Workshop Manual pinpoint test is in the process of being updated and replacement of the electronic power assist steering (EPAS) column is not necessary. To clear the DTC, drive the vehicle straight for 30 seconds at speeds over 50 km/h (30 mph). Cycle the ignition on/off once complete. For claiming use causal part 3C529.
Interesting - sounds like a very similar bunch of errors that got thrown on my car once. Dealer never pinpointed anything but did all the outstanding software updates, etc. When they say "disconnected or discharged" battery, I assume they mean the 12V system?
 

Kamuelaflyer

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Interesting - sounds like a very similar bunch of errors that got thrown on my car once. Dealer never pinpointed anything but did all the outstanding software updates, etc. When they say "disconnected or discharged" battery, I assume they mean the 12V system?
That would make sense logic-wise.
 

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My Mr. Ed was in the shop twice, for a total of 27 days, for similar items. Readers' Digest version...they changed out a computer module. So far, so good. However, beware- the modules are back ordered!
 
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My Mr. Ed was in the shop twice, for a total of 27 days, for similar items. Readers' Digest version...they changed out a computer module. So far, so good. However, beware- the modules are back ordered!
Thank you for the information. Do you by chance know which computer module they changed? If so please let me know and I will pass this information onto the dealer currently working in our MME. Thank you in advance.
 

murphy62

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Thank you for the information. Do you by chance know which computer module they changed? If so please let me know and I will pass this information onto the dealer currently working in our MME. Thank you in advance.
That many errors could be caused by a bad ground connection.

Tesla had a problem with a ground stud on a frame rail corroding and eventually separating from the frame rail. That's more likely in the snow belt with the liberal application of salt to the roads.
 

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Had exact same issue when driving my new MME home. Turned out to be a faulty module. Took a month to get the part but that did fix it. Now never had the 12v battery issue until a week ago. Now twice have come out to a dead car. The odd thing is i have seen in the ford app that it was charging the 12v battery.
 

ten8bike

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Thank you for the information. Do you by chance know which computer module they changed? If so please let me know and I will pass this information onto the dealer currently working in our MME. Thank you in advance.
The part number is on here. Good luck.

5859F5A0-9AB4-470B-A2C5-5EBD2040A698.jpeg
 

TheVirtualTim

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Not 100% sure of charge level of 12V battery. I have not had any issues starting vehicle.
What is best way to test charge level of the 12V battery?
I bought an adapter that plugs into the 12v "cigarette lighter" port ... and it happens to have a volt-meter in it (it's main purpose is to provide a USB port for charging things like phones). Note that if the car is 'started' then it will likely read 15 volts (because the large battery is supplying power to the 12v battery).

If the car is just on in accessory mode (the large battery is off) then you should get a true reading. If the entire car is off then it wont read anything because the lighter port is a switched port that doesn't remain on when the car is off.

12v terminology is used ... but it's not really 12v, it's "12v system". A brand new fully charged 12v battery will usually read near 14v (it will certainly read above 13.5 volts). If a 12v battery reads less than 12 volts, that's low battery. I don't know how low it needs to be to start throwing errors ... but if low enough, it will throw all those error codes (my car did this prior to the software update).

The 12v battery could be healthy and have a poor electrical connection.

When the car is plugged in, the car software maintains the 12v battery using the AC power.
When the car is not plugged in, the car software maintains the 12v battery using the high voltage battery pack. So regardless of whether it is plugged in or not, the 12v battery is being monitored and maintained.

The exception to this is that some early cars had a software bug ... which I should think has been fixed on all affected vehicles by now. When my car had the issue the update had to be installed locally (a technician had to plug a laptop into the car to update it -- it was not available as an OTA update because prepping software for OTA takes weeks of testing to make sure it will always succeed.). I don't know if it was packaged for OTA and applied to all affected car ... but my guess is that it would have been. So I'm not really thinking your car would be missing the update (I could be wrong) ... but am wondering if there isn't a poor connection somewhere.

I will say that the symptoms you describe sound a lot like what happened to cars that had the low 12v battery issue. The 12v battery in this car is only 35 amp hours. It doesn't need to crank a starter ... so it doesn't need cranking amps like an ICE vehicle.
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