Level 2 charger won't release - manual release cable broke

[cartwrij]

So, my home charger apparently had a fault and my car (2022 GT) didn't charge overnight. OK, no big deal, I have plenty of charge for the week and I'll figure out what's wrong with the charger.

Except, I'm unable to unplug my charger. I tried hitting unlock several times, pushing the cable in farther and then pulling out, and so on. Nothing. Next I tried the manual release. Popped frunk, took off the panels, turned off the low voltage, and then went to grab the manual release cable. First, that thing was really hard to get out -- it seems as if it was glued to something else. Anyway, I eventually get it, and I pull on it toward the center of the car. Nothing happens, try to get the charger out, no dice. So I try again. Still nothing. Try a third time and the manual release cable comes out.

Not sure how to stress this, but I was not pulling *THAT* hard. So now I don't have a manual release, and the charger is still stuck.

So, um, now what? I can probably decouple the charger cable from the wall, and get it towed I guess, but that seems ridiculous. Any other ideas?

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[Mach-Lee]

What type of home charger was it? The lock mechanism is not used for Level 1/2 cables (only DCFC), so pulling the release cable probably won't do any good if you have a stuck Level 1/2 (AC) charger.

If the charging cable is stuck because of melted pins, likewise pulling the release cable won't help. The welded pins will be holding it together, not the latch lock. Prying tools will be required to remove a melted cable. That can happen because of a poor connection in the charge handle, especially if the J1772 plug is abused and worn out. There was a software update CSP to prevent melted charge ports, but perhaps you didn't get it?

Almost all the past Level 2 stuck cable incidents on the Mach-E have been because of melted pins or a broken/stuck J1772 latch. They required something like a big flat screwdriver to lift the latch or pry the cable out of the socket. In one case I heard of a guy who dissembled the J1772 handle (removed the screws) to remove the latch because something broke inside the handle it and got stuck. Obviously only do that after the power has been completely shut off, and replace the cable/handle afterwards.

After you get it out, you need to inspect the charge port pins to make sure they're not melted or damaged before you use another charger. See: https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/how-to-clean-and-inspect-your-charge-port.29901/

@Administrator FYI this is another post with a messed up image.

 

[cartwrij]

What type of home charger was it? The lock mechanism is not used for Level 1/2 cables (only DCFC), so pulling the release cable probably won't do any good if you have a stuck Level 1/2 (AC) charger.

If the charging cable is stuck because of melted pins, likewise pulling the release cable won't help. The welded pins will be holding it together, not the latch lock. Prying tools will be required to remove a melted cable. That can happen because of a poor connection in the charge handle, especially if the J1772 plug is abused and worn out. There was a software update CSP to prevent melted charge ports, but perhaps you didn't get it?

Almost all the past Level 2 stuck cable incidents on the Mach-E have been because of melted pins or a broken/stuck J1772 latch. They required something like a big flat screwdriver to lift the latch or pry the cable out of the socket. In one case I heard of a guy who dissembled the J1772 handle (removed the screws) to remove the latch because something broke inside the handle it and got stuck. Obviously only do that after the power has been completely shut off, and replace the cable/handle afterwards.

After you get it out, you need to inspect the charge port pins to make sure they're not melted or damaged before you use another charger. See: https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/how-to-clean-and-inspect-your-charge-port.29901/

@Administrator FYI this is another post with a messed up image.

Thanks! I'll try to pry it out. The charger is a MUSTART 25 amp charger.

 

[cartwrij]

not sure if the image will load correctly, but this is my charger handle..

 

[cartwrij]

nope... didn't load correctly.

 

[Jerrytball]

Speaking of level two charges I was glad to see that my charger still works, even though I don’t have a car I was worried because I couldn’t see it in Ford pass any longer, and I couldn’t control it so when I first tested it this morning, which I have a generator that lets me charge with the car charger it was doing nothing and then I just reconnected both connectors again and it started working so I’m guessing once I get that Tesla adapter today it’ll charge my neighbor‘s Tesla too

 

[Mach-Lee]

Thanks! I'll try to pry it out. The charger is a MUSTART 25 amp charger.

Uh, so a quick search turns up the MUSTART charger is somewhat notorious for melting Chevy Bolt charge ports. If you know the feel of the latch and you're pretty sure the button is pressing down all the way, then it's probably melted.

I recommend you get a higher quality charger once it's sorted out.

 

[cartwrij]

OK - so, assuming it's melted. How much pressure should I be applying to pull it out?

 

[Mach-Lee]

OK - so, assuming it's melted. How much pressure should I be applying to pull it out?

If it got hot enough, the metal pins will weld together, so could require a lot of force to remove. IDK 100 pounds?

 

[cartwrij]

If it got hot enough, the metal pins will weld together, so could require a lot of force to remove. IDK 100 pounds?

OK - that's going to make me nervous prying it out.. I already broke one thing today. I'll give it a go when I get home from work today.

 

[Maquis]

Uh, so a quick search turns up the MUSTART charger is somewhat notorious for melting Chevy Bolt charge ports. If you know the feel of the latch and you're pretty sure the button is pressing down all the way, then it's probably melted.

I recommend you get a higher quality charger once it's sorted out.

Tom Moloughney calls them “MustSmoke.”

 

[Adventureboy]

You are likely going to have to replace the port on the MME anyway since the manual release is broken. If the pins are welded, you will have to replace both the port on the MME as well as the cable on the EVSE. Maybe try moving it somewhat aggressively in a circular motion. This may break the weld if it isn't too bad.

 

[moog]

This is a great thread for people to learn something from:

When you purchase or lease an EV that costs $40-70K....please don't skimp and buy a "cheap" charger on amazon or somewhere on the internet.

Spend your good money on a quality wall charger. There is no need to skimp and try to save a few bucks on a cheap charger. It's not worth the time, damage, and potential fire that can result from a cheap charger.

Same thing applies to charge connector adaptors.

 

[Adventureboy]

When you purchase or lease an EV that costs $40-70K....please don't skimp and buy a "cheap" charger on amazon or somewhere on the internet.

I second this. A UL or CSA-certified charger may cost more, but this is why.

 

[kamorela]

not sure if the image will load correctly, but this is my charger handle..

I've often encounter this photo 'collage' effect when uploading photos. I have no idea why it does that. After multiple failed attempts I finally found that if I copy and paste the photo into a photo viewing app, then save it under a different name, it uploads correctly. Very unusual and frustrating.

The two attached photos are the result of following the procedure I just mentioned above. Both are the same photo. The collage photo is a phone photo saved to my computer. The intact photo was copied/pasted into my computer's photo app (Irfanview), then saved under a different name. Same photo.

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