MTB Transport Solutions

Buzz

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Hey fellow MME-ers,

It’s warming up here in the NE and about time for me to get my MTB out! I was originally planning to install a Curt receiver like I have on my other vehicles and just use my hitch style bike rack. Unfortunately, I’m suspicious I’d lose the hands free kick function of the lift gate (which I really like). I see there’s a SeaSucker suction cup style rack available, which has some pretty good reviews. Yet I’m still hesitant to trust suction cups to hold my bike at highway speeds, not to mention concerns with theft. Anyway, I figured I’d see what you all are using.

I know I can fit the bike in vehicle, I’d just rather not. It’s usually pretty nasty coming off the mountain and It’s so much easier to keep the mess outside.
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AKgrampy

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My plan, if I elect to use my Mach, is to install a hitch. I really do not care about the kick option and I don’t think my Mach will even arrive with that option. There is a Thule rack available for the Mach but I do not know much about it. Most of the trailheads I use have fairly crappy dirt roads so most likely use one of my ICE vehicles when I transport.
 

Murse-In-Airy

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MTB = MicroToolBox. Sorry about your micro tool bro.
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HuntingPudel

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Not an acronym I'm familiar with... I won't even ask why it's one you are. ;)
@Murse-In-Airy sometimes (often?) works long hours in the medical field. I think he comes across all sorts of tomfoolery. ??
 


Murse-In-Airy

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Not an acronym I'm familiar with... I won't even ask why it's one you are. ;)
I just googled MTB to try and figure out what you were talking about. Since your assumption was we would know what MTB you were referring to… I had to make a similar assumption. ?
 

phidauex

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I went with the hitch and 1-up rack solution. The kick-to-enter does still work, but it is a bit finicky (it was before, too). Sometime I'll drop the "diaper" and slide the sensor further out to see if I can make it work again. But honestly I use the bike rack far more than I used kick-to-enter so for me the tradeoff was worth it.

Play with the spacing a bit, in my case with a short extension needed to clear the bumper, I get the bonus that the hatch clears with the rack empty and in the upright position! Makes everything a lot more convenient, and the high rear hatch height makes it fairly likely on many car/rack combos.
 
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Buzz

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I went with the hitch and 1-up rack solution. The kick-to-enter does still work, but it is a bit finicky (it was before, too). Sometime I'll drop the "diaper" and slide the sensor further out to see if I can make it work again. But honestly I use the bike rack far more than I used kick-to-enter so for me the tradeoff was worth it.

Play with the spacing a bit, in my case with a short extension needed to clear the bumper, I get the bonus that the hatch clears with the rack empty and in the upright position! Makes everything a lot more convenient, and the high rear hatch height makes it fairly likely on many car/rack combos.
Good to know! I've had the MME for a few weeks now, and have noticed the kick to enter is pretty finicky. I planned to climb under there and understand the layout a little better soon. I'll probably mock set the rack up to see how the fit looks too. Retaining the kick to enter function and ability to open the hatch with the rack on would be ideal!

Is the extension you made just a straight piece of square stock attached to the rack, or did you extend the receiver? How stable are the bikes with the additional length?

Thanks!
 

phidauex

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Good to know! I've had the MME for a few weeks now, and have noticed the kick to enter is pretty finicky. I planned to climb under there and understand the layout a little better soon. I'll probably mock set the rack up to see how the fit looks too. Retaining the kick to enter function and ability to open the hatch with the rack on would be ideal!

Is the extension you made just a straight piece of square stock attached to the rack, or did you extend the receiver? How stable are the bikes with the additional length?

Thanks!
You can read my whole experience here, lots of photos along the way: https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...itch-and-1up-equipd-rack-is-a-tight-fit.8070/

I ended up using a Kuat bolt-in extension which results in almost 0 wobble. I've heard the Curt hitch sticks out a bit further than the Eco Hitch so the extension may not be needed, and some of the Thule's stick out further than the 1-ups. Lots of combos, so hard to tell, but if you DO need an extension you should get one with either a bolt-in pin or a cam-lock so it doesn't introduce any wobble.

When you have the rear "diaper" cover down, that would be a time when you could slide the kick-sensor cable further outboard, it is a cable-like feature right inside the rear bumper. I've heard some folks have done it successfully, but not a lot of experiences yet.
 
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Buzz

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You can read my whole experience here, lots of photos along the way: https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...itch-and-1up-equipd-rack-is-a-tight-fit.8070/

I ended up using a Kuat bolt-in extension which results in almost 0 wobble. I've heard the Curt hitch sticks out a bit further than the Eco Hitch so the extension may not be needed, and some of the Thule's stick out further than the 1-ups. Lots of combos, so hard to tell, but if you DO need an extension you should get one with either a bolt-in pin or a cam-lock so it doesn't introduce any wobble.

When you have the rear "diaper" cover down, that would be a time when you could slide the kick-sensor cable further outboard, it is a cable-like feature right inside the rear bumper. I've heard some folks have done it successfully, but not a lot of experiences yet.
Thanks!
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