New software update (via dealer)

TruWrecks

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blkadr08

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kltye

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I should have a VCM here this week. Planning on buying an FDRS 2 day sub and updating every module in my Mach E and Truck. FDRS can do Sync 3/4 firmware and software updates so I'll let everyone know how that goes...

I wish I knew the VIN of that GT that someone posted screenshots of with the frunk opening button. If Ford hasn't released that for my VIN yet FDRS won't update it, however I can manually look up the IVSUs with that other VIN and manually flash them to the APIM/GFM or whatever is required. Luckily it is easy to change software versions back if something isn't compatible. Been doing this a long time with UCDS, but it doesn't support the Mach-E yet sadly.
I'm not sure if you've done a firmware ("calibration") update on the Mach-E yet, but a couple observations on my own misadventures with FDRS and a Bosch Mastertech VCI:
1) Updating the Image Processing Module A (IPMA) takes a REALLY long time - about 3.5 hours. Most of the other modules take between 2-10 minutes.
2) If you don't have external power, your 12v battery drains in about 35 minutes. It appears the car continues to run a pump of some sort throughout the process.
3) If you can't complete the update (because of say, power issues), don't worry - the module doesn't get bricked permanently - at least for the IPMA. I managed to kill and resume the process multiple times. It took out all ADAS features, but the car was driveable.
4) If you need to cancel the process for whatever reason, I'd recommend using the "cancel" button during the update process - I'd like to think that's a cleaner way of aborting the procedure.
5) At least for me, using a 6 amp power supply, the battery voltage kept dropping. AGM battery longevity concerns aside, don't worry about ridiculously low voltage - it dropped to about 8 volts for me, and programming continued.
6) Once the programming is done, and if your battery is drained, be prepared for the car to be completely dead. Mine also made continuous popping sounds that sounded like battery modules popping - but it turns out it was the sound system doing strange things with low battery voltage. I had a jump starter handy, and that fixed things right up.

Most of my issues were due to not properly having external power, so if you're set with that, you should be good.

Oh, and make sure you wind down your windows before you start. The electronic door release doesn't work while you're updating the modules :)
 


breeves002

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I'm not sure if you've done a firmware ("calibration") update on the Mach-E yet, but a couple observations on my own misadventures with FDRS and a Bosch Mastertech VCI:
1) Updating the Image Processing Module A (IPMA) takes a REALLY long time - about 3.5 hours. Most of the other modules take between 2-10 minutes.
2) If you don't have external power, your 12v battery drains in about 35 minutes. It appears the car continues to run a pump of some sort throughout the process.
3) If you can't complete the update (because of say, power issues), don't worry - the module doesn't get bricked permanently - at least for the IPMA. I managed to kill and resume the process multiple times. It took out all ADAS features, but the car was driveable.
4) If you need to cancel the process for whatever reason, I'd recommend using the "cancel" button during the update process - I'd like to think that's a cleaner way of aborting the procedure.
5) At least for me, using a 6 amp power supply, the battery voltage kept dropping. AGM battery longevity concerns aside, don't worry about ridiculously low voltage - it dropped to about 8 volts for me, and programming continued.
6) Once the programming is done, and if your battery is drained, be prepared for the car to be completely dead. Mine also made continuous popping sounds that sounded like battery modules popping - but it turns out it was the sound system doing strange things with low battery voltage. I had a jump starter handy, and that fixed things right up.

Most of my issues were due to not properly having external power, so if you're set with that, you should be good.

Oh, and make sure you wind down your windows before you start. The electronic door release doesn't work while you're updating the modules :)
I have done plenty of firmware updates on many vehicles, just not the Mach-E yet. I've used both UCDS and FDRS/IDS/FDJS.

I'm not surprised at the IPMA. The slowdown is since the VCM only communicates via CAN and it is HS CAN it is a max of 512kbps usually. The IPMA has a massive software suite as it is doing a LOT of processing.

Whenever I do module updates I put the battery on a charger anyways, so no sweat there.

The popping noise is the ACM/DSP having its "plug pulled". There's a command to put all modules to sleep that goes out when the programming starts. It freaks me out every time even though I know it is coming. It isn't a normal shutdown signal (usually lack of a can message) sent it is kind of a 'power off right now' signal.
 

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I'm not sure if you've done a firmware ("calibration") update on the Mach-E yet, but a couple observations on my own misadventures with FDRS and a Bosch Mastertech VCI:
1) Updating the Image Processing Module A (IPMA) takes a REALLY long time - about 3.5 hours. Most of the other modules take between 2-10 minutes.
2) If you don't have external power, your 12v battery drains in about 35 minutes. It appears the car continues to run a pump of some sort throughout the process.
3) If you can't complete the update (because of say, power issues), don't worry - the module doesn't get bricked permanently - at least for the IPMA. I managed to kill and resume the process multiple times. It took out all ADAS features, but the car was driveable.
4) If you need to cancel the process for whatever reason, I'd recommend using the "cancel" button during the update process - I'd like to think that's a cleaner way of aborting the procedure.
5) At least for me, using a 6 amp power supply, the battery voltage kept dropping. AGM battery longevity concerns aside, don't worry about ridiculously low voltage - it dropped to about 8 volts for me, and programming continued.
6) Once the programming is done, and if your battery is drained, be prepared for the car to be completely dead. Mine also made continuous popping sounds that sounded like battery modules popping - but it turns out it was the sound system doing strange things with low battery voltage. I had a jump starter handy, and that fixed things right up.

Most of my issues were due to not properly having external power, so if you're set with that, you should be good.

Oh, and make sure you wind down your windows before you start. The electronic door release doesn't work while you're updating the modules :)
Just curious - how the heck do you put the 12V battery on a charger if you have to take out the entire stupid front trunk to even get to it?
Also, does this mean that this module will never be updatable OTA since it would drain the 12V battery (and thus brick the car) if it was updated without the 12V battery on a charger?
 

macchiaz-o

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Thanks Jonathan! How am I notified that dealer-installed updates Are available?
It depends. Most of us got a FordPass notification and a letter via USPS that a phone as a key reliability update is available through a software calibration update available via dealers, or via OTA later in the year. This is a "customer satisfaction program."

Often times though, dealer installed updates are tied to customer concerns. If you don't present your specific concern or if the tech can't match the concern to a software calibration, then there isn't a way for them to document what they're changing and why they're doing it.

As @agoldman stated, many calibrations tied to "technical service bulletins" or "special service messages" aren't published to the general public.

HOWEVER, Ford does publish most of these to NHTSA, and the government posts them to their web site for the public. So you can go browse all these "manufacturer communications" documents at the NHTSA site to see what's going on behind the scenes.
 

macchiaz-o

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Just curious - how the heck do you put the 12V battery on a charger if you have to take out the entire stupid front trunk to even get to it?
Also, does this mean that this module will never be updatable OTA since it would drain the 12V battery (and thus brick the car) if it was updated without the 12V battery on a charger?
Updates can be downloaded while you're driving or parked. Either way, they can be downloaded relatively quickly through the 4G modem, or WiFi if connected, to the gateway module (GWM).

The GWM can then begin to push updates to other modules depending on state of 12V charge, park/drive state, etc. This can happen slowly depending on which bus is used within the vehicle.

Some modules, including the IPMA that was referenced earlier, can have updates staged into their memory even while you are actively driving. These updates are known as ABA swaps.

Once the B memory partition is fully loaded and verified, then the A and B memory pointers can be swapped so that the next time the module is reset (e.g. after the car is parked and key cycled), it loads the newer software.
 

Jimrpa

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Updates can be downloaded while you're driving or parked. Either way, they can be downloaded relatively quickly through the 4G modem, or WiFi if connected, to the gateway module (GWM).

The GWM can then begin to push updates to other modules depending on state of 12V charge, park/drive state, etc. This can happen slowly depending on which bus is used within the vehicle.

Some modules, including the IPMA that was referenced earlier, can have updates staged into their memory even while you are actively driving. These updates are known as ABA swaps.

Once the B memory partition is fully loaded and verified, then the A and B memory pointers can be swapped so that the next time the module is reset (e.g. after the car is parked and key cycled), it loads the newer software.
Ok, then I don’t understand why the IPMA poster was talking about that update killing his 12V battery (btw, ABA swaps are/were a common way of updating spacecraft software. You update the redundant bank, error check it, then switch over to it. I’m simplifying the description, so anyone who does S/C software, don’t throw rocks).
 

macchiaz-o

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Ok, then I don’t understand why the IPMA poster was talking about that update killing his 12V battery (btw, ABA swaps are/were a common way of updating spacecraft software. You update the redundant bank, error check it, then switch over to it. I’m simplifying the description, so anyone who does S/C software, don’t throw rocks).
I think @kltye was updating via laptop, cables, and programming/flashing hardware. Not OTA, and not via the GWM. From his or her description, an incomplete update resulted in a non-functional IPMA, so it's also not the ABA swap method when done that way.

I happen to know you've got the largest supply of rocks. Throwers beware. ;)
 

kltye

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Yes, updating the IPMA via OBD appears to completely erase the module and then reprogram it from scratch - no fancy-schmancy memory swaps. In fact, I believe it actually programmed both portions of the module memory with identical firmware, which of course made things twice as long ?

As for putting the battery on a charger, it's technically putting the car on an external power supply. I clamped the positive lead onto the battery (I guess it's the battery extension post), and the negative I just clamped onto an unpainted part of the car.

Thanks @breeves002 for the tip on the ACM/DSP! I was very freaked out at the moment but relieved that there appeared to be no damage to the speakers.
 

Jimrpa

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I think @kltye was updating via laptop, cables, and programming/flashing hardware. Not OTA, and not via the GWM. From his or her description, an incomplete update resulted in a non-functional IPMA, so it's also not the ABA swap method when done that way.

I happen to know you've got the largest supply of rocks. Throwers beware. ;)
Thanks for clarifying! Ooh, and my rocks go on the shelf as part of my collection. They are not throwing rocks ?
 

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I had to read back and I agree with Timbop. Android gives directions on the instrument panel. Additional when I charge to 100% I get 285 miles my extended battery (AWD). I have to find Navigation post I have question about the "blue" that pops up on the screen.
 

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Just saw this reply to a comment with some more info.
714F390C-1037-4F1E-9864-FBD0B2C304D1.jpeg
Sponsored

 
 




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