No Heat.....at all...Except departure preconditioning.

[1969Mach1Mike]

I have no heat. None.


I have had the car since May. Its been a very warm summer and I have had no need to use heat. Fall has arrived here in Colorado and we had our first snow in town this morning. Last week I set up preconditioning for departure anticipating the cooler temperatures. Everything works great. The cabin warms up etc.


Anyway, I had to go pick up my kids this evening its roughly 32 F. I set the temperature to 72 degrees. It feels like the AC is on. I toggle AC, E-Heat, check the vents etc. Everything looks good. The temperature is not changing. I pull over and cycle the car, reboot the center screen (walk about 100 feet away to clear PAAK and the Key range), Walk back enter the car and verify all settings and toggle profiles...everything. I only get cold cold air. I cannot tell if its the AC or the outside air. I suspect its the outside air as I don't hear the initial jet engine sound of the AC pumps/fans.


I see there is an OTA (as i'm logging in to post my issues) that might fix my software?


Has anyone else had this issue?

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[Kamuelaflyer]

There’s a TSB issued earlier this year thst may help. Another TSB issued today for really cold weather and the dealer to address other issues. Not everything in the car is fixable via OTA. I’d suggest calling a local Ford EV service center dealer and schedule an appointment. They can address the TSBs and any applicable mechanical repairs as necessary.

 

[Neil4Real]

If possible, you can wait it out and see if you get the HVAC over the air. You may have already gotten some OTAs (hopefully). You can use those to gauge how quickly you get them.

If not, call a dealer and see if they can slide you in. The HVAC update is super quick and, generally, problem free.

 

[1969Mach1Mike]

If possible, you can wait it out and see if you get the HVAC over the air. You may have already gotten some OTAs (hopefully). You can use those to gauge how quickly you get them.

If not, call a dealer and see if they can slide you in. The HVAC update is super quick and, generally, problem free.

I have been getting the OTA within a week of seeing them announced on the forum. So I am in a good cycle for them. I was thinking about waiting for the one I just saw before posting to see if it snaps the glitch out of the software.

 

[Mach-Lee]

If you have absolutely no heat, your PTC heater might have failed. Set your temp to HI and use auto mode, verify E-heat is on. You should feel some warmth out of the floor vents after a minute or two. The grille shutters outside should be closed if the A/C isn't being used.

The HVAC update won't help if your PTC heater is broken. There have been a few cases of heaters failing and needing to be replaced.

 

[1969Mach1Mike]

If you have absolutely no heat, your PTC heater might have failed. Set your temp to HI and use auto mode, verify E-heat is on. You should feel some warmth out of the floor vents after a minute or two. The grille shutters outside should be closed if the A/C isn't being used.

The HVAC update won't help if your PTC heater is broken. There have been a few cases of heaters failing and needing to be replaced.

I did set my temp to HI and turned on AUTO during my trouble shooting. That yielded no heat. I also toggled e-heat off and on. What is strange is I get heat when the car 'preconditions' on my schedule. This leads me to believe it is software instead of hardware.

 

[Mach-Lee]

I did set my temp to HI and turned on AUTO during my trouble shooting. That yielded no heat. I also toggled e-heat off and on. What is strange is I get heat when the car 'preconditions' on my schedule. This leads me to believe it is software instead of hardware.

Others with the failing heater have said it was somewhat intermittent, one day it seems okay but another day it had little to no output. If you have a scan tool you could maybe take a look at the coolant temps. The best way to diagnose is to pop the frunk covers off and feel the heater hoses going in and out of the heater module. With the heat on high, one should obviously be much warmer than the other. I have not heard of it being a software issue before.

 

[Ford Motor Company]

I have no heat. None.


I have had the car since May. Its been a very warm summer and I have had no need to use heat. Fall has arrived here in Colorado and we had our first snow in town this morning. Last week I set up preconditioning for departure anticipating the cooler temperatures. Everything works great. The cabin warms up etc.


Anyway, I had to go pick up my kids this evening its roughly 32 F. I set the temperature to 72 degrees. It feels like the AC is on. I toggle AC, E-Heat, check the vents etc. Everything looks good. The temperature is not changing. I pull over and cycle the car, reboot the center screen (walk about 100 feet away to clear PAAK and the Key range), Walk back enter the car and verify all settings and toggle profiles...everything. I only get cold cold air. I cannot tell if its the AC or the outside air. I suspect its the outside air as I don't hear the initial jet engine sound of the AC pumps/fans.


I see there is an OTA (as i'm logging in to post my issues) that might fix my software?


Has anyone else had this issue?

Hello, Mike! Send us a private message with your VIN and the name and location of your local Ford dealer. I’d be happy to see what I can do to assist Thanks!

 

[jay1122]

you should manually change the setting to have the heat blow to the dash vent. The ones on the dash where cold AC air blows in summer. The setting is in the sub menu, the icon where air blows to face. Auto sends heat to the upper dash vent below windshield. Feel the air with your hand. It should be warm. If not, the heater is broken.

Based on that you said precondition works, the heater probably is not broken.

 

[SnBGC]

I have no heat. None.


I have had the car since May. Its been a very warm summer and I have had no need to use heat. Fall has arrived here in Colorado and we had our first snow in town this morning. Last week I set up preconditioning for departure anticipating the cooler temperatures. Everything works great. The cabin warms up etc.


Anyway, I had to go pick up my kids this evening its roughly 32 F. I set the temperature to 72 degrees. It feels like the AC is on. I toggle AC, E-Heat, check the vents etc. Everything looks good. The temperature is not changing. I pull over and cycle the car, reboot the center screen (walk about 100 feet away to clear PAAK and the Key range), Walk back enter the car and verify all settings and toggle profiles...everything. I only get cold cold air. I cannot tell if its the AC or the outside air. I suspect its the outside air as I don't hear the initial jet engine sound of the AC pumps/fans.


I see there is an OTA (as i'm logging in to post my issues) that might fix my software?


Has anyone else had this issue?

Touch the button to the right of your volume dial to bring up the climate controls. Is E-Heat enabled?

 

[1969Mach1Mike]

you should manually change the setting to have the heat blow to the dash vent. The ones on the dash where cold AC air blows in summer. The setting is in the sub menu, the icon where air blows to face. Auto sends heat to the upper dash vent below windshield. Feel the air with your hand. It should be warm. If not, the heater is broken.

Based on that you said precondition works, the heater probably is not broken.

Appreciate all of the the insight. I do understand how the controls work. Unfortunately when I tried again today everything was cold. But again, pre-conditioning worked.

I understand the mach E is a bit different from traditional ICE with how the heat is enabled for warming the cabin.




From The User Manual
"--------Switching the Electric Heater On and Off ------
When E-Heat is on, an electric heater is used to warm the cabin and keep the windows from fogging. Turning E-Heat [off] saves battery power, which extends your driving range. The electric heater is the only source of heat to warm the cabin."

----Also the User manual----
"Quickly Heating the Interior

1. Press AUTO.
2. Adjust the temperature function to the setting you prefer.

Recommended Settings for Heating

1. Press AUTO.
2. Adjust the temperature function to the setting you prefer. Use 72°F (22°C) as a starting point, then adjust the setting as necessary."

So if I am reading this correctly E-Heat has to be set to [Enabled] to heat the cabin. If its [OFF] the only heat I will be getting is residual. So E-Heat / AUTO isn't making much of a difference. I'm going to guess something is broken.


Regardless, with E-HEAT [on] or [OFF] there is only a minimal change it temperature. Its fookin cold out.

 

[1969Mach1Mike]

Touch the button to the right of your volume dial to bring up the climate controls. Is E-Heat enabled?

Yes when I press it [enabled]. No temperature change.
When I Disable it [OFF] No temperature change.

Using AUTO also [enables] E-Heat. This doesn't change anything from a temperature standpoint.

 

[jay1122]

Yes when I press it [enabled]. No temperature change.
When I Disable it [OFF] No temperature change.

Using AUTO also [enables] E-Heat. This doesn't change anything from a temperature standpoint.

You should select E heat, select the arrow to the face icon on the left of the car image. And crank fan speed up to max with the fan icon at the bottom row. Then put your hand over the dash vent and feel for warm air. If it is still not warm air after 30 secs. It is broken.

 

[hawkeye3point1]

Since the car can provide heat in precon, my guess is a stuck/faulty diverter valve. I would get on your dealers schedule ASAP and take it somewhere that offers free OBD scanning in the meantime. Jot down any codes and post them.

Think about getting your own OBD reader too, lots of upside for a small investment.

 

[1969Mach1Mike]

You should select E heat, select the arrow to the face icon on the left of the car image. And crank fan speed up to max with the fan icon at the bottom row. Then put your hand over the dash vent and feel for warm air. If it is still not warm air after 30 secs. It is broken.

I think it is broken. I did this exact process last evening. Your Diverter valve comment actually makes many things add up. I believe your assessment may be the winner.

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