Trade in Value

[Pushrods&Capacitors]

We shall see I guess.

But your experience? Definitely not normal. What are you doing to your Fords?!?

Probably the only things we could compare would be 100k+ mile Teslas to 100k+ mile ICEs. Would be interesting to see the long term repair costs out of warranty.

But either way, I still think we have just about as many components that “can break.”

Actually…..Ford was well known to have particularly bad auto transmissions in the ‘80s-90s, unlike GM with their very durable hydramatic series of auto transmissions. The AOD (DOA), AOD-E and E4OD all had various reliability issues. I personally owned a ‘95 Mustang GTS with the AOD-E (shoulda got the T-5) and it suffered from a torque convertor recall and eventually the OD band burned out as well. All the 5 Fox bodies I owned subsequently had T-5s ??.

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[ElectrikPony]

it saddens me to see that the value of a mach-e with only 2,900 miles in-service (actually on road and not in the shop) has dropped about $20,000 in value.

 

[djett]

Anyone else enrolled with Recurrent and see this new program they are offering for selling your EV?

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[Pushrods&Capacitors]

There is less maintenance (no oil changes).

But I don’t think there is “less to repair.” We have pretty much the same amount of components (things that can break) as an ICE vehicle.

And there’s a reason why most ICE come with huge powertrain warranties- powertrain doesn’t usually break during the warranty period.

I spend a lot of time on the car forums for every car I’ve owned. And I don’t even remember reading a single case of an engine or transmission replacement under powertrain warranty for my last few cars.

Because you didn’t own a Ford automatic of ‘80s-90s vintage, right? The AOD, AOD-E and E4OD were pieces of shit with high warranty claims and TSBs out the ass. No wonder they went in with GM to co-develop the 10r80/10L80…

 

[Maquis]

Because you didn’t own a Ford automatic of ‘80s-90s vintage, right? The AOD, AOD-E and E4OD were pieces of shit with high warranty claims and TSBs out the ass. No wonder they went in with GM to co-develop the 10r80/10L80…

Exactly. E4OD may have been the worst of the lot. In my book, anyway.

 

[Mach1E]

Because you didn’t own a Ford automatic of ‘80s-90s vintage, right? The AOD, AOD-E and E4OD were pieces of shit with high warranty claims and TSBs out the ass. No wonder they went in with GM to co-develop the 10r80/10L80…

Had an 89 Bronco and a 95 Bronco if that counts.

No doubt everything sucked more back then. A bit different these days. If it wasn’t obvious, I wasn’t trying to compare the reliability of ICE vehicles of yesteryear to BEVs today.

The “last few cars” of mine were a 2015 Chevy SS, 07 G35S sedan and an 02 Trans Am (6 speed of course). No tranny issues luckily.

 

[redranger04g]

Your understanding of Ford Options is 100% incorrect. How much you put down has zero, yes zero, impact on if the car is worth more than the Ford Options balloon payment in three years. Putting more down limits monthly payments, that's it. The balloon payment is the same whether you put down $0 or $20k, but obviously lower monthly payments with the latter.

This is exactly how Ford Options works, it is based on Ford's estimated value of the car as a percent of the MSRP at the end of X years (3 or 4) with a total of X miles (7,500 - 19,500 per year). So it's actually apples to apples comparison. Whether you buy a $50k MME or a $70k MME, the amount of depreciation estimated by Ford based on a percentage of MSRP is the same. For example, if you do a 3 year Ford Options plan with 12,000 annual miles the amount of depreciation estimated by Ford is 54-55% regardless of MSRP.

Using your car as an example based on current Ford Options (your numbers may differ), assuming $70k MSRP, at the end of 3 years with 12,000 miles per year the balloon payment is $32,307. Changing down payment does not change the value of the car nor the balloon payment. Meaning Ford estimates the car will depreciate by 54%. So the question is, do you think your car will depreciate by more or less than 54%? This we can have a friendly debate over as no one has a crystal ball, but your previous comments regarding Ford Options are incorrect.

I encourage you to go play around with the ford options calculator on the ford website.

 

[voxel]

There’s way less to repair on EVs than other cars. Other than the battery what else would be a major repair? I wouldn’t have bought this car if I didn’t think it could go 8 years and 100,000 miles.

It's solely that these components are new. I don't expect the Mach-E HVBJB to last 8 years. Motors and inverters are probably somewhat mature/reliable but again they might be first gen production runs.

The battery is the least of my concerns. Coolant lines + pumps + etc. All the random bits and bobs that if they leak or fail causes serious damage. Just puncturing battery coolant lines can be a reason for battery replacement in many EVs. Even Toyotas have Hybrid wiring harnesses that corrode so no carmaker is immune.

The sweet spot might be 2-3 from now where component makers have learn from first gen mistakes.

 

[ElectrikPony]

Because you didn’t own a Ford automatic of ‘80s-90s vintage, right? The AOD, AOD-E and E4OD were pieces of shit with high warranty claims and TSBs out the ass. No wonder they went in with GM to co-develop the 10r80/10L80…

ford was never known for producing great transmissions. Ford was known for bullet proof rear ends (Detroit locker , 8.8 etc ). That’s why any serious drag build you see a GM trans with a ford rear differential.

 

[Pushrods&Capacitors]

ford was never known for producing great transmissions. Ford was known for bullet proof rear ends (Detroit locker , 8.8 etc ). That’s why any serious drag build you see a GM trans with a ford rear differential.

Sure, I agree. But, the old C4 and C6 were much stronger and even better when built. Still, I preferred to run a T5 in my track foxes for sure. And the T5 wasn’t even a stout manual once you got past 450hp or so. And, as good as the 8.8 is, the Ford 9 inch is the drag racers choice.

 

[Dadams]

I spend a lot of time on the car forums for every car I’ve owned. And I don’t even remember reading a single case of an engine or transmission replacement under powertrain warranty for my last few cars.

I guess you never owned a Hyndai or Kia

My daughter just had her engine replaced on a 2017 Sante Fe with 75k miles on it because of the bad Rod bearings under warranty and this class action settelment

 

[devmach-e]

It's solely that these components are new. I don't expect the Mach-E HVBJB to last 8 years. Motors and inverters are probably somewhat mature/reliable but again they might be first gen production runs.

The battery is the least of my concerns. Coolant lines + pumps + etc. All the random bits and bobs that if they leak or fail causes serious damage. Just puncturing battery coolant lines can be a reason for battery replacement in many EVs. Even Toyotas have Hybrid wiring harnesses that corrode so no carmaker is immune.

The sweet spot might be 2-3 from now where component makers have learn from first gen mistakes.

I've owned 3 different Toyota hybrids: a 2005 Prius, a 2012 Plug-in Prius, and a 2016 Highlander Hybrid. Number of times the wiring harness went bad in the 2005 over 18 years and 283K miles of ownership? 0. The major problem with that car right now is the suspension is shot, interior is less than spectacular, and the HID driver for the headlights is failing. None of those are related to the hybrid-specific part of the car. The PiP has over 160K miles and no issues with the wiring. Same for the HiHy at 100K miles. Toyota's hybrid design is pretty bullet proof at this point.

I suspect, aside from the HVBJB issue, the inverter, motors, and battery in the Mach-E will last way way way past the 100K/8-year warranty period.

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