Axle shaft failure

[Mach 5e]

2021 (August) Premium RWD standard. 33K slow in-city mileage. Multiple trips to local Honolulu Ford dealer with clicking - clunking - metallic noise from rear of car concerns. My teenagers were driving it mostly!! After pushing and pushing for a better eval, the 3rd tech appointment easily found excessive play in RR inner CV. Now hunting for replacement parts on Mainland!! Fortunate the 8yr EV drivetrain warranty covers it, but what a process...
Tech #1 Diag was my kids phone charger in rear door pocket!!!! Useless
Tech #2 Diag was to replace the TWO upper trailing arms as per TSB. My cost $750 for NOTHING!!! They were just fine but prob would have failed next month.

Why are so many parts failing so soon... Rhetorical. Low quality manufacturing.
Tired of Ford recalls and hidden TSB's... No more Domestic anything. Maybe an Amish house and buggy. Bought kids a BMW 330i full well knowing...

DJ

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[tbrumleve]

As there are very few (this may be the only one I’ve seen) with this issue, general statements like “Why are so many parts failing so soon” aren’t genuine. You have one failed part after multiple (wrong) diagnosis. You have one part that failed, most likely due to said teenagers abusing the car. This isn’t a genuine post, as the damage is self inflicted and in no way implicates the manufacturer in any deficit or deceit. Blame the shop for misdiagnosis, and your kids for being irresponsible. Hope your ride gets fixed and you let the kids drive a beater Kia or similar.

 

[Teslaeata]

If it’s the clicking/creaking sound just as acceleration & overrun starts, changing the rear wheel bearings cured mine - both sides happened to start making those noises almost a the same time.

 

[Mike G]

All that torque going to only the rear wheels...on a car that has very rapid acceleration from a standing stop. With teenage drivers thrown into the mix.

 

[Mach1E]

As there are very few (this may be the only one I’ve seen) with this issue, general statements like “Why are so many parts failing so soon” aren’t genuine. You have one failed part after multiple (wrong) diagnosis. You have one part that failed, most likely due to said teenagers abusing the car. This isn’t a genuine post, as the damage is self inflicted and in no way implicates the manufacturer in any deficit or deceit. Blame the shop for misdiagnosis, and your kids for being irresponsible. Hope your ride gets fixed and you let the kids drive a beater Kia or similar.

Yeah…. 1 thing broke after 4 years and was covered under warranty = never buy a domestic car again??

The only story here is “if you hear a metallic clunk in the rear it may be your axle shaft.”

It is a lesson on the difficulty of diagnosing and chasing down a “noise” when a car is functioning mechanically. You may end up throwing parts at the problem. This is not unique to the Mach E.

 

[Chiefwino]

Could also be salt area corrosion issue near the ocean

 

[Teslaeata]

Could also be salt area corrosion issue near the ocean

Your logic don’t hold out, I had this problem and I’m almost the furthest from the cost in UK in every direction

 

[Snakebitten]

Teenagers & BMW are sure to be a better combination.

 

[Mach 5e]

Wow...the defenders... I fixated on only the latest recall and failed parts.

The teenagers both used the car as a learner (permit) and in our notorious bumper to bumper Honolulu traffic. I'm the aggressive driver in the family!

Recalls and failed software so far:
-Gave up on glitchy PAAK
-Center screen going black till reboot
-Failing bearings and bushings ripping and failing in trailing arms (TSB)
-Camera cable intermittent failure that compromised the whole safety system
-Side cameras going Blue screen at will when you need them
-Windshield R&R reseal
-Headliner R&R'd and damage to various trim to reseal the Glass roof
-Failed 12v Battery a week off warranty, but didn't lock us in car
-Half a dozen software and charging issues, some requiring dealer flash, downloads ,and countless vague and stupid OTA updates.
-Oh and one rear axle half shaft. Should just do both.

This is only one of our cars with, again 33K over 4 yrs in city miles

EV torque is always a factor, but the RWD with a standard battery reduces some 500lbs the weight off an AWD EX.

Part reliability = All manufactures in general. The domestics are a basket case with recalls and engineering anything to last. Engines transmissions... same with some Toyota truck engines? , Korean cars and appliances.. Just getting worse

I chose the BMW drivetrain as it was #3 of the top Consumer Reports and other reliability ratings with a particular drivetrain. After Toy and Lexus (same). I appreciate the quality and know the cost will be more to fix if I keep after 50-80K miles

 

[New2EV]

2021 (August) Premium RWD standard. 33K slow in-city mileage. Multiple trips to local Honolulu Ford dealer with clicking - clunking - metallic noise from rear of car concerns. My teenagers were driving it mostly!! After pushing and pushing for a better eval, the 3rd tech appointment easily found excessive play in RR inner CV. Now hunting for replacement parts on Mainland!! Fortunate the 8yr EV drivetrain warranty covers it, but what a process...
Tech #1 Diag was my kids phone charger in rear door pocket!!!! Useless
Tech #2 Diag was to replace the TWO upper trailing arms as per TSB. My cost $750 for NOTHING!!! They were just fine but prob would have failed next month.

Why are so many parts failing so soon... Rhetorical. Low quality manufacturing.
Tired of Ford recalls and hidden TSB's... No more Domestic anything. Maybe an Amish house and buggy. Bought kids a BMW 330i full well knowing...

DJ

I'm having similar noises with my 2021 RWD Prem. It was covered under the 8yr EV warranty? I assumed the 5yr/60k drivetrain warranty. Just making sure so I know how long I have to get it fixed.

 

[Mach1E]

Wow...the defenders... I fixated on only the latest recall and failed parts.

The teenagers both used the car as a learner (permit) and in our notorious bumper to bumper Honolulu traffic. I'm the aggressive driver in the family!

Recalls and failed software so far:
-Gave up on glitchy PAAK
-Center screen going black till reboot
-Failing bearings and bushings ripping and failing in trailing arms (TSB)
-Camera cable intermittent failure that compromised the whole safety system
-Side cameras going Blue screen at will when you need them
-Windshield R&R reseal
-Headliner R&R'd and damage to various trim to reseal the Glass roof
-Failed 12v Battery a week off warranty, but didn't lock us in car
-Half a dozen software and charging issues, some requiring dealer flash, downloads ,and countless vague and stupid OTA updates.
-Oh and one rear axle half shaft. Should just do both.

This is only one of our cars with, again 33K over 4 yrs in city miles

EV torque is always a factor, but the RWD with a standard battery reduces some 500lbs the weight off an AWD EX.

Part reliability = All manufactures in general. The domestics are a basket case with recalls and engineering anything to last. Engines transmissions... same with some Toyota truck engines? , Korean cars and appliances.. Just getting worse

I chose the BMW drivetrain as it was #3 of the top Consumer Reports and other reliability ratings with a particular drivetrain. After Toy and Lexus (same). I appreciate the quality and know the cost will be more to fix if I keep after 50-80K miles

Sorry you had a bad experience. But your individual and experience doesn’t add up to your conclusions about domestic vs BMW reliability.

BMW does make a good vehicle, but when it comes to dependability studies, domestic brands typically are half of the top 10 most reliable. There’s basically no statistically significant difference between imports and domestic brands…… anymore.

Now if we were talking about the 1980s and 1990s, there was a significant gap. But that gap closed years (even decades now) ago.

That all said, yeah this car is notorious for buggy software, but actual issues that require real in the shop repairs don’t seem any more frequent than everything else on the road.

 

[Kamuelaflyer]

Could also be salt area corrosion issue near the ocean

Your logic don’t hold out, I had this problem and I’m almost the furthest from the cost in UK in every direction

43,000 miles on my 2021, 100% of them in Hawaii, and zero issues along these lines. And I live in an area where I can check the high speed limit on the ER-AWD any time I want, or do all the max torque takeoffs I want. Plus, I seriously doubt the OP's car is visiting Oahu's barrier reef up close and personal.

33K slow in-city mileage.

For those unaware, Oahu has traffic that puts Los Angeles to shame. The H-1 makes I-405 in SoCal look deserted, and the H-1 traffic is 24/7/365. And it goes well beyond downtown and Waikiki.

With all that said, yes, teenagers with perpetual lead feet won't help. But really, a failure like this at 33,000 miles is very unusual. The "all these parts" comment is very obviously born out of frustration; it's not like we don't engage in hyperbole around here.

 

[azerik]

It's also a 21. So first year problems on a brand new platform. I can't imagine anyone rolled out a new car on a new platform and didn't have things go wrong. Hidden TSB's is nothing new. Started around the time of smog pumps.

 

[azerik]

Oh and I've had 3 half shafts replaced in the time I have owned my MME. (And from the sounds of it the rear is going out again)

 

[dalola]

This is only one of our cars with, again 33K over 4 yrs in city miles

Just FYI, city miles will stress axles & CVJ's much more than highway miles. (I bring this up because you reference this like it's unusual) Clearly it was defective (part), but the same part would likely have lasted twice that long with highway miles.

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