Going downhill- car won’t start

machefan

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This indicates a software issue to me.

Anyone out there have any insights?
There were a few updates between February and June, while I can't 100% confirm I suspect this problem had been addressed in a recent update.

Glad that hard booting the MME during the situation reset these types of issues. Would be good for others to know this just incase.
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Kamuelaflyer

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Thank you all for you help! Last night was stressful.

FYI, the car was completely drained out of the 12V battery. Jump starting it didn’t work. I couldn’t change gears at all. Unfortunately it had to be towed on a flat bed. The front wheels aren’t locked but the rear ones were. There was so dragging action on the cement as it was locked on those rear ones.

Eventually, towed the car next to a charger, plugged it in, then jump started again. And voila! It worked! The car was essentially bricked. I did read about those reports but never thought I’d run into that issue.

This morning, the car was fine at 20% charge, but about 20 mins after I parked it, it threw a high voltage error and a bunch of others too sent to my fordpass. Needless to say, a trip to the dealer is due!

Thanks again!
Tag @Ford Motor Company here on the forums, send them a direct message as well. You also might want to send an email to the Ford Customer Experience executives. Let them all know what happened and ask for someone to help your dealer out. https://www.elliott.org/company-contacts/ford/
 

JoeDimwit

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It says Low (L) does not take any actions if one pedal drive is active.
I understand that. I was replying to the comment that you shouldn’t have been in Low. I dint use a pedal, so I use Low most of the time to maximize my regen.
 

blue92lx

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It says Low (L) does not take any actions if one pedal drive is active.
Yeah the L is really supposed to be used if you're not doing 1 pedal driving. It allows the car to do full Regen on descents the same way 1 pedal driving works. Then you just hit L at the bottom again and continue on your way with 2 pedal driving.
 


Andeh

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I descended a steep hill last week in L and at the bottom received a "1 pedal drive fault" error. Thankfully fixed with a reboot.
 
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So I have been waiting for almost a full week to get a similar problem fixed. The 12v battery is part#BHAGM - H3, it is a special order part and per the dealer is on national back order. My MME broke down last Wednesday on the way home from a trip, 150 miles from home. After having this battery replaced at a dealer 1200 miles from home the prior Monday. The first dealer also performed tsb#21-2190 and supposedly the #21b36 update. All seemed fine until I pulled into what would have been my last fast charge to top off so we would have enough buffer to get into the driveway. Same stop safely now, not able to restart trouble codes as I got before first dealer swapped out 12v battery and did the updates.

Ford Mustang Mach-E Going downhill- car won’t start Web capture_6-7-2021_133716_www.interstatebatteries.com
 

blue92lx

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It's a little curious why it seems like the 12v seems to be the cause of a fair amount of issues. I wonder if they had the batteries stored somewhere for an extended time, maybe while waiting for chips or other parts, and the batteries just didn't do well sitting there.
 

Garbone

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Well, I have a vacation later this month and was thinking of going up to Fancy Gap an cruising the BRP. May want to reconsider.


Very similar thing happened to me on Saturday going down Pike's Peak. I was using one pedal mode, regenerating power, no problem, maybe about 40% battery. All of the sudden, I received every alarm and fault possible and the car bricked. I barely got to the side. Attached is a partial list of errors.

I though maybe an overheating issue due to a high level of regeneration so I waited, did a soft boot of the controls and it started and went maybe a 1/4 mile before bricking again. Repeated this process twice before I did a hard boot by lifting the 12V battery cable. The car has performed fine since. This indicates a software issue to me.

The rest of the story... the week before my Ford dealer attempted to install the PAAK software update (FSA21B36). They spent 2 hours and were unsuccessful (don't know if they followed the procedure to provide 12V power to the system in case the car goes to sleep during the update). After reading other experiences with the PAAK update being installed incorrectly, I suspect the failures I experienced were related.

Anyone out there have any insights?

Screenshot_20210706-092140_FordPass.jpg
Did both of cars have their WiFi hotspot enabled in an area of horrible coverage kill the LV battery faster than normal?
I assumed the LV battery charged automatically off the HV battery when the car is on. Does Regen braking disable LV charging because power is going into the HV battery?

Does sound like a software or possible architecture issue with the LV an HV battery setup.
 

Ford Motor Company

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Soooo, I went up mount Washington, NH with 60%charge. Going downhill I put it on low gear (L) with one pedal drive on. The car shit down giving me all sorts of errors that we all heard of. I managed to turn it back on 5 minutes later using Ford pass app.

I’m almost 75% down and it did it again, except this time I have a flashing “P” on the gear that won’t turn off even if I switch the vehicle off. The fans have been on non stop.

I’m definitely not out of battery, and I don’t know what to do! Help?!

image.jpg
Hey there! Would you please send over a private message with your VIN? I would like to see what I can do to assist with your Mach E's power issues.
 

AzCoronaDog

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Wow.
Not just forgetting to dot the I's and cross the t's, they left the t out all together!
I have been coding for a living for 40 years, and I have to say, the Ford coders and QA are the worst I have seen in a very long time.
 

LadyGator

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Yeah the L is really supposed to be used if you're not doing 1 pedal driving. It allows the car to do full Regen on descents the same way 1 pedal driving works. Then you just hit L at the bottom again and continue on your way with 2 pedal driving.
So, just to clarify, how would it be best to descend? Turn off one pedal and put in Low, or keep one pedal on not in Low, or one pedal and Low?
 

Frankie

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Just leave it in one pedal, no need for Low since it doesn't do anything if you're already in 1 pedal.
 

Motomax

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One further thing to try is to turn off the vehicle and open/shut the door. Wait at least 15 minutes for the computers to "sleep" before trying to start it again. Maybe this will reset something.

Alternatively, disconnect the 12V battery for a few minutes. Here are the steps:
  1. Key off your vehicle.
  2. Open the hood.
  3. Remove inner luggage compartment shields. See Installing and Removing the Luggage Compartment Cover.
  4. Open the low voltage service disconnect.
imagen2.jpg
Doesn’t this only disconnect the high voltage contactors in the battery.
 

macchiaz-o

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Doesn’t this only disconnect the high voltage contactors in the battery.
Hmm. You're probably right. I'm not sure. Weird that they refer to it as the low voltage service disconnect, though.

It sure would be convenient if it did disconnect the 12V battery from everything, no wrenches required.
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