How to Recondition/Service Your 12V Battery

zvez

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I have had two warnings of low battery. One just last week. Both times I just plugged in home charger. Will that resolve charging 12volt battery? My car sat for 3 months after it was built before they shipped it to dealer. So I am wondering if my 12v battery is still not working perfectly.

I was wondering if I drive the car on short trips will that also cause problems with my 12v battery?

I have a First Edition that was built in December and I took delivery in April.
The early builds had an especially long transit time, I know at one point shipping was halted to fix an issue. A lot of the early cars had 12v issues, I was thinking they did a software update to address it.

I haven't gotten a 12 v message thus far.
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The last couple of times I used FDRS to check for updates in November, I noticed that the 12V rail was reading 15.0V on the FDRS display. In some conditions, the MME DC-DC converter seems to be going that high, at least within a few minutes of start up. In recent months before that, I was seeing 14.3V.

I have also received two 12V LVB warnings, but so far, so good, no recent flat battery incidents.
 

HOFMACHFE

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I just checked the owners manual online and it says that the high voltage battery will charge the 12v battery if necessary. So no need to charge the battery manually as far as I understand.
Ford Mustang Mach-E How to Recondition/Service Your 12V Battery Screenshot_20211106-103617
 

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I just checked the owners manual online and it says that the high voltage battery will charge the 12v battery if necessary. So no need to charge the battery manually as far as I understand.
Screenshot_20211106-103617.png
That DC-DC feature operates like the alternatoe or generator in an ICE car. The 12V battery is constantly under light loads, even when the car is asleep. The DC-DC charging system is supposed to replenish the 12V battery under those conditions. Early builds had a sfotware issue that allowed the 12V battery to completely discharge while the vehicle was asleep. There was a software patch for that.

That said, even old ICE cars without any vampiric electronics occasionally need their 12V batteries topped up.
 

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I want to emphasize this is an optional one-time procedure meant to help restore your 12V battery if it’s been sitting at a low charge. Under normal use the 12V battery should be maintained automatically when the car is off, so you shouldn’t have to do this unless you are experiencing low voltage issues.
The (easier) alternative is to turn on your Mach-e, disable the auto-off setting, and let it sit in in Park for a couple hours 'on'. The onboard dc-dc will come up to it's operating voltage, and top up the 12v battery all by itself.

no need to go thru the pain of opening up the frunk 'beauty cover' to get to the 12v connection points, no need to buy a 12v charger and figure out the proper charge curve and risk damaging the AGM if you select the wrong charge rate or voltage.
 


dtbaker61

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If I needed to do this, I would make the dealer do it. Buying a charger just for a one-time use is a bit much.

I have three Battery Tenders. Got my first one for my F-150, because Sync and the truck's systems pull too much if you only drive occasionally. 8 years on the original battery. Another formour boat, and a 3rd form the truck while at our cottage that we sold since.

Sometimes Costco sells a 2 pack which is a great deal.

There REALLY is no need to add a battery tender of any kind to the mach-e.... it's all built in and designed to tend itself. If it's not doing this, then you may need the appropriate modules updated.

If you are nervous about it, I'd suggest turning ON your MME to wake it up on a monthly basis, turn the 'auto-off' setting OFF, and let it be awake for a couple hours and it will tend to itself. ;)
 
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The (easier) alternative is to turn on your Mach-e, disable the auto-off setting, and let it sit in in Park for a couple hours 'on'. The onboard dc-dc will come up to it's operating voltage, and top up the 12v battery all by itself.

no need to go thru the pain of opening up the frunk 'beauty cover' to get to the 12v connection points, no need to buy a 12v charger and figure out the proper charge curve and risk damaging the AGM if you select the wrong charge rate or voltage.
This won't work completely. Desulfation of an AGM is a time-limited process, so only a couple hours won't do it. The charging voltage needs to be applied for at least 24 hours continuous. In my test case with a mildly sulfated battery it took 3+ days to see the current decay to what I would consider a "full desulfated" level. You could still potentially do this with your car, but I don't recommend people leaving their car on unattended for days at a time because of the security risks, and it's sort of a waste of electricity (5-10 kWh) on idle currents.

The other issue is the charging system, it's set to only charge the battery to about 80-90% rather than 100%. Sometimes the voltage will drop down to mid-13's which will take much longer to charge. You really need to have an absorption profile where voltage is kept at 14.5V volts for several hours, followed by 24+ hours of 13.6V to get the job done. A battery charger is the easiest way to accomplish this successfully.
 
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Mach-Lee

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I just checked the owners manual online and it says that the high voltage battery will charge the 12v battery if necessary. So no need to charge the battery manually as far as I understand.
Screenshot_20211106-103617.png
Yes, with a normal healthy battery the charging system will keep it in decent shape with no extra charging needed. But with a sulfated battery the charging system won't run long enough to clear all of it out, and capacity will be degraded. Because your car was sitting for so many months, it probably has some sulfation buildup in it. Early builds also had the 12V charging software issues. In your case I'd recommend you take it to the dealer for the TSB software updates first if you haven't yet. Then I'd recommend leaving it on a battery charger for a week because the sulfation is almost a year old and is likely very hardened by now. If you get the message again after doing those two steps, then you probably need a new battery.

Cold temps is when sulfation and battery problems start showing up. Personally I put all my vehicles on chargers for a weekend going into winter to make sure batteries are completely topped off before the really cold weather starts.
 

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Yes, with a normal healthy battery the charging system will keep it in decent shape with no extra charging needed. But with a sulfated battery the charging system won't run long enough to clear all of it out, and capacity will be degraded. Because your car was sitting for so many months, it probably has some sulfation buildup in it. Early builds also had the 12V charging software issues. In your case I'd recommend you take it to the dealer for the TSB software updates first if you haven't yet. Then I'd recommend leaving it on a battery charger for a week because the sulfation is almost a year old and is likely very hardened by now. If you get the message again after doing those two steps, then you probably need a new battery.

Cold temps is when sulfation and battery problems start showing up. Personally I put all my vehicles on chargers for a weekend going into winter to make sure batteries are completely topped off before the really cold weather starts.
Thanks for the advice. I will go ahead and charge the battery as you suggest.
 

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Now that I've gotten the "12v Battery Fault" message twice, I figured I should probably do this.

I connected a NOCO Genius 10 (https://no.co/genius10) to the jump points and put it in AGM mode. It quickly went through its "bulk charging" phases, which NOCO says is the first 75% state of charge. Then it went into its "optimization" phase. I'm not entirely sure what that is, but I assume it's the slow charging for the last 20% that @Mach-Lee described above. When I went to bed last night, it had been in this optimization phase for about 7 hours. When I checked it this morning, the NOCO is now in "maintenance mode". From what I can tell, that means it's done and just monitoring the battery. I'm not planning to use the car today anyway, so I'll leave it hooked up until tomorrow. If I see the 12V fault message pop up again, I guess I'll have to visit the dealer.
Well, the 12V Fault message popped up again this morning, so I guess a visit to the dealer is in my future. I guess I'll wait until after 11/15 so I can have the glass recalls done at the same time.
 
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Well, the 12V Fault message popped up again this morning, so I guess a visit to the dealer is in my future. I guess I'll wait until after 11/15 so I can have the glass recalls done at the same time.
I’m curious, when the NOCO goes into maintenance mode, does it shut off the output? The charger needs to output 13.6V+ continuously in its final mode for the desulfation to work. Otherwise you only got 7 hours of charging instead of 48. The manual isn’t really clear on what the charger is actually doing in those modes. Maybe some of these new “smart” chargers won’t work because of power saving modes I didn’t consider. If somebody could check the voltage after it’s been in the final mode 12+ hours then we’ll know.
 

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I’m curious, when the NOCO goes into maintenance mode, does it shut off the output? The charger needs to output 13.6V+ continuously in its final mode for the desulfation to work. Otherwise you only got 7 hours of charging instead of 48. The manual isn’t really clear on what the charger is actually doing in those modes. Maybe some of these new “smart” chargers won’t work because of power saving modes I didn’t consider. If somebody could check the voltage after it’s been in the final mode 12+ hours then we’ll know.
My interpretation of the manual is that yes, it shuts off the output when in maintenance mode and just monitors the battery. In this mode, it will switch back into optimization mode as needed to keep the battery healthy. I'd love to be able to test this, but I'm not sure how to test the output of the charger when in this mode since it has to be connected to the battery.
 

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Well, the 12V Fault message popped up again this morning, so I guess a visit to the dealer is in my future. I guess I'll wait until after 11/15 so I can have the glass recalls done at the same time.

you should not need an external charger, ever, with the MME if your on-board system is working correctly. If the battery needs replacing, or Modules need updating... let Ford do it!
 
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Mach-Lee

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My interpretation of the manual is that yes, it shuts off the output when in maintenance mode and just monitors the battery. In this mode, it will switch back into optimization mode as needed to keep the battery healthy. I'd love to be able to test this, but I'm not sure how to test the output of the charger when in this mode since it has to be connected to the battery.
Just use a voltmeter on the + and - jump terminals with the charger connected to check the voltage. If the charger is off the battery voltage will decay to less than 13.3V. If charger is staying on float mode it should keep it at 13.4V+.

you should not need an external charger, ever, with the MME if your on-board system is working correctly. If the battery needs replacing, or Modules need updating... let Ford do it!
Correct, only if the battery is healthy to begin with and the software is up to date. I'm offering this advice to help people fix their marginal batteries themselves to avoid replacement. Some people have reported a 1-month wait on replacement 12V batteries right now, and going to the dealer and being without your car is a hassle. You're certainly free to go to the dealer and wait for a new battery if you want, but some people would rather try the charging routine first to see if that's really necessary. It doesn't hurt anything to try, choose your own path.

Not all batteries can be saved, but a lot of batteries are replaced under warranty when they just needed a good long charge.
 

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... if the battery is healthy to begin with and the software is up to date. ...
Our vehicles are less than 1 year old... if there is a problem with either battery, or on-board charging modules it is best to get it in process and squared away thru Dealership under warranty. No need to mess with extra expense and trauma if there is something wrong with on-board that needs to be fixed!

Yes, it may be possible to clean up the battery.....
But if the on-board system that is supposed to maintain it is faulty, it will continue to kill the LVB.

Take that sucker in, and get it updated!
...all covered under warranty, and a good thing to do if you are taking in for Windshield recall....
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