Steeda Front Sway Bar! It is awesome. Transforms the car into what it should be.

[markboris]

Really hoping they come out with a 2.0 version that has the ends modified. I don’t have a grinder and even if I did I’m not sure I’d be comfortable doing it because if something went wrong all the liability would be on me for modifying their tested product. I really want to get these though, these reviews are making me so jealous.

I'm thinking (or hoping) that mounting the bar pushed all the way forward in the bracket should allow enough room to clear the tie rods when you are in full lock left or right. I don't know about anyone else, but I rarely ever turn my wheel full tight lock when actually driving so I think it should be fine.

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[21st Century Pony]

I'm thinking (or hoping) that mounting the bar pushed all the way forward in the bracket should allow enough room to clear the tie rods when you are in full lock left or right. I don't know about anyone else, but I rarely ever turn my wheel full tight lock when actually driving so I think it should be fine.

+1.

 

[mkhuffman]

I'm thinking (or hoping) that mounting the bar pushed all the way forward in the bracket should allow enough room to clear the tie rods when you are in full lock left or right. I don't know about anyone else, but I rarely ever turn my wheel full tight lock when actually driving so I think it should be fine.

I was thinking the same thing. I don't do many full lock turns and I can definitely avoid doing that. It is really just U-turns when I turn it all the way, usually left.

However, since I really never do a full lock right turn, but often do a full lock left u-turn, I checked the right side of the bar to see if has evidence of hitting. It does.

Now I wonder if it is hitting even when not turning.

 

[HuntingPudel]

OK, I just finished up grinding the tips of my bars. I think I need to grind a little more. My thinking on where I had mounted my bar to the frame was wrong. It is mounted so that the frame mounts are pretty much slid all the way forward. ?? Yep, I wrote an R and an L on the top of the bar before install. ??

The good news: I found a spray paint nearly the same color that Steeda uses. Rust-Oleum “Sail Blue.” ?? I know, this won’t help @markboris since he painted his dark grey. ??

I did not change the length of the end links. I wanted to make one change at a time to see where I am. So, I ground the tips of the bar at an angle to minimize the amount I needed to remove while offering more clearance. ??

Left Side:

Right (I stupidly painted the tip prior to the photo. Apologies):

Photos after having gone full lock both right and left:

As you can see, a little more needs to be removed, but I have it on the run. Maybe I should just chop off the part with the outer holes since I will never use the softest setting? ?‍?

 

[mkhuffman]

OK, I just finished up grinding the tips of my bars. I think I need to grind a little more. My thinking on where I had mounted my bar to the frame was wrong. It is mounted so that the frame mounts are pretty much slid all the way forward. ?? Yep, I wrote an R and an L on the top of the bar before install. ??

The good news: I found a spray paint nearly the same color that Steeda uses. Rust-Oleum “Sail Blue.” ?? I know, this won’t help @markboris since he painted his dark grey. ??

I did not change the length of the end links. I wanted to make one change at a time to see where I am. So, I ground the tips of the bar at an angle to minimize the amount I needed to remove while offering more clearance. ??

Left Side:

Right (I stupidly painted the tip prior to the photo. Apologies):

Photos after having gone full lock both right and left:

As you can see, a little more needs to be removed, but I have it on the run. Maybe I should just chop off the part with the outer holes since I will never use the softest setting? ?‍?

Before I do anything I am very interested to see how this works for you. So, do you think it is possible to grind the end down while it is still mounted in the car? Take the wheel off, grind it down, put the wheel back on. No? Yes?

 

[markboris]

OK, I just finished up grinding the tips of my bars. I think I need to grind a little more. My thinking on where I had mounted my bar to the frame was wrong. It is mounted so that the frame mounts are pretty much slid all the way forward. ?? Yep, I wrote an R and an L on the top of the bar before install. ??

The good news: I found a spray paint nearly the same color that Steeda uses. Rust-Oleum “Sail Blue.” ?? I know, this won’t help @markboris since he painted his dark grey. ??

I did not change the length of the end links. I wanted to make one change at a time to see where I am. So, I ground the tips of the bar at an angle to minimize the amount I needed to remove while offering more clearance. ??

Left Side:

Right (I stupidly painted the tip prior to the photo. Apologies):

Photos after having gone full lock both right and left:

As you can see, a little more needs to be removed, but I have it on the run. Maybe I should just chop off the part with the outer holes since I will never use the softest setting? ?‍?

If I find I need to grind down the bar end, that last hole is coming off for sure. As you Steve, I'm never going to use that last hole. I highly doubt there will be any rubbing issues with the tie rod if we lop off that last hole.

 

[HuntingPudel]

If I find I need to grind down the bar end, that last hole is coming off for sure. As you Steve, I'm never going to use that last hole. I highly doubt there will be any rubbing issues with the tie rod if we lop off that last hole.

LOL there will be zero issues if we lip off the last hole. Thinking seriously about it instead of doing more grinding. I cannot think of a negative to lopping it off. ?‍?

 

[Godawgs]

I'm thinking (or hoping) that mounting the bar pushed all the way forward in the bracket should allow enough room to clear the tie rods when you are in full lock left or right. I don't know about anyone else, but I rarely ever turn my wheel full tight lock when actually driving so I think it should be fine.

Admittedly it’s pretty rare I do it as well, and it’s usually at very slow speeds too when it happens so that may make it less of an issue

 

[Garbone]

I think I am a few months away from ordering a set of these for my car. I do do a hard left to lock u turn every morning so that third hole will probably need to go. Is it possible Steeda could just delete the 3rd hole going forward. Hate to have to order a bar and a can of spray paint knowing I will be chopping off the ends before install.

 

[kennethjk]

I will have the car in Florida this winter and I would have Steeda do the install

I sent them an e mail asking how they would handle the install to eliminate any scraping

Will see what they say

 

[ALTANertive]

I’ve got my install in 2 weeks. I’m thinking I’ll just cut off the last hole with my dremel.

 

[Murse-In-Airy]

LOL there will be zero issues if we lip off the last hole. Thinking seriously about it instead of doing more grinding. I cannot think of a negative to lopping it off. ?‍?

Thanks for testing this. When I get mine it will just become a two hole sway bar.

 

[mkhuffman]

Thanks for testing this. When I get mine it will just become a two hole sway bar.

I will probably loop off the last two holes and then it will be a one one sway bar. I want to eliminate all chances of another hit.

I am probably going to cut off the end while everything is still assembled. The problem is the spray of metal and sparks, but I will cover everything around the bar and I think it should be fine. Anyone disagree?

 

[markboris]

I will probably loop off the last two holes and then it will be a one one sway bar. I want to eliminate all chances of another hit.

I am probably going to cut off the end while everything is still assembled. The problem is the spray of metal and sparks, but I will cover everything around the bar and I think it should be fine. Anyone disagree?

That's exactly what I'm going to do if I find it has rubbing issues with the tie rod. I'll know tomorrow.

 

[markboris]

Ok, got the car on the lift, removed the wheels and found both ends of the front sway bar have an equal amount of rubbing. Not just the paint is off, but the ends are no longer a rounded edge but flat in the middle. I never heard any noises (my audio system is usually up kind of loud) or felt anything unusual. While I do have over 1000 miles on this front sway bar, I doubt I made more than a couple of U-Turns and hardly ever turn my steering wheel to full lock either way but I guess I had more times than I thought. As a side note, I had the U-brackets slid all the way forward when I mounted the bar so that should have given it the maximum amount of space between the ends of the bar and the tie rods but I guess it wasn't enough.

Got my DeWALT cordless angle grinder out and lopped off the ends of the bar with it in place. I took off the last hole (total of 7/8") which I'd never use anyway. Actually I'll never use the center hole either however if I wanted to remove it there, I'd have to take off the end link and didn't feel it was necessary to take off that much of the bar. It took about 1 minutes for each side which wasn't enough time to heat up the bar much at all so leaving the end link attached didn't cause any issues with it. I filed it down a bit so there are no sharp edges and painted with the same Rust-Oleum hammered black paint I used on the bars and end links before I installed them.

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