The Complete DIY Guide to Updating Your Mach-E with FDRS

[Mike G]

Looks like I also need to update BCM and GCM software via FDRS in addition to APIM. I only updated APIM, oops! When I sign up for the 2-day license can I simply target those two items only to achieve frunk opening?

Yes that should do it.

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[EV_Vida]

Okay I made the plunge and purchased the hardware.

 

[EV_Vida]

Yes that should do it.

So I can simply choose to update those two correct and nothing else? Im worry about power and can I get away without using a power source and just relying on car for BCM and GCM SW updates?

 

[Mike G]

So I can simply choose to update those two correct and nothing else? Im worry about power and can I get away without using a power source and just relying on car for BCM and GCM SW updates?

Yes you can choose to update those two if that's all you want to do. I can't recommend doing CAN bus programming without a powersupply though.

 

[KevinS]

So I can simply choose to update those two correct and nothing else? Im worry about power and can I get away without using a power source and just relying on car for BCM and GCM SW updates?

FDRS can't get any clearer that a power source is recommended for updates. Like Mike G implied, it seems like a bad place to economize.

Get at least a battery charger on there if you're not willing to splurge on a big ticket item. Some additional juice is better than no juice.

 

[mkhuffman]

So I can simply choose to update those two correct and nothing else? Im worry about power and can I get away without using a power source and just relying on car for BCM and GCM SW updates?

I am watching this thread as a possible future FDRS updater. But I just wanted to add to Mike's and Kevin's comments about getting a power supply.

A power supply is a useful tool for reconditioning your LVB. So if you get one, you won't just use it for FDRS updates. I think it is worth the investment. I plan to recondition my LVB yearly.

Here is Lee's post on how to recondition your LVB:
https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/how-to-recondition-service-your-12v-battery.11069/

 

[EV_Vida]

I splurge on the Clore Automotive PL610; so I’m good to go.

Any guidance on the battery supply set up?

 

[Mike G]

I splurge on the Clore Automotive PL610; so I’m good to go.

Any guidance on the battery supply set up?

If you got the Clore PL6100...that is probably the most recommended powersupply. Not sure what you mean by battery supply setup?

You mean how it's all connected?

If you've done the holesaw mod you just connect the terminals and initially set the PL6100 to charge until your state of charge is over 80% and then switch over to powersupply mode at 14.0V.

If you haven't done the holesaw mod you just remove the frunk rear and left side beauty panels and connect, then the rest is the same. If you are going to keep up with all the updates I recommend doing the holesaw mod for quicker access.

 

[JohnnyForensic]

Well, I pulled the trigger and bought the Mongoose and a charger/continuous 30A-rated power supply. I’m tired of sitting at 2.7.4 for months with no BlueCruise in sight. I figure I can eBay the entire package if I ever decide to sell the Mach-E and not get another Ford, but I’ve got no intention to do that, so I’m going to consider it an “investment in my time and sanity.”.

 

[HuntingPudel]

I have seen a peak as high as 42A being pulled. The highest continuous current I have seen in my limited experience is around 37A. I’m going to get a 35A supply. If I see a long continuous draw at high amperage, I will just add a little down time between updates. ??

 

[Mike G]

I have seen a peak as high as 42A being pulled. The highest continuous current I have seen in my limited experience is around 37A. I’m going to get a 35A supply. If I see a long continuous draw at high amperage, I will just add a little down time between updates. ??

There's no taking naps during 4hr IPMA updates on CAN bus.

 

[HuntingPudel]

There's no taking naps during 4hr IPMA updates on CAN bus.

This is true, but 2A over 4 hours won’t kill the tiny little battery. Of course, I have enough Group 35 12V AGM batteries laying around that I can hook cables up to one of those along with a charger and not worry. ??

 

[Mike G]

This is true, but 2A over 4 hours won’t kill the tiny little battery. Of course, I have enough Group 35 12V AGM batteries laying around that I can hook cables up to one of those along with a charger and not worry. ??

That's cheating!

Kindof like me using a PL2320 and realizing I was about to be hosed during the IPC update (3+ hrs) as the voltage dipped down to 10.5 before I got my Powerboost alongside with jumper cables to help out the underpowered booster back in the BlueCruise programming days. Went right out and bought the PL6100 after that emotional event.

 

[Neil4Real]

That's cheating!

Kindof like me using a PL2320 and realizing I was about to be hosed during the IPC update (3+ hrs) as the voltage dipped down to 10.5 before I got my Powerboost alongside with jumper cables to help out the underpowered booster back in the BlueCruise programming days. Went right out and bought the PL6100 after that emotional event.

I roughed it out and haven't had another update that required more. I'm sure there will be another IPMA and IPC update that takes forever, especially if we get BlueCruise 2.0... but I'll table that purchase until then!

 

[HuntingPudel]

That's cheating!

Kindof like me using a PL2320 and realizing I was about to be hosed during the IPC update (3+ hrs) as the voltage dipped down to 10.5 before I got my Powerboost alongside with jumper cables to help out the underpowered booster back in the BlueCruise programming days. Went right out and bought the PL6100 after that emotional event.

LOL I‘ll just remember to move the Blazer next to the MME and run cables to the MmE and put the Blazer on the charger If I see an IPMA update. Or, since the Trans Am’s behind is pointed right at the MME I can use its battery. ??

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