DIY: 12V LVB Battery Charger/Maintainer Harness Install - NOCO

[Mike_Hawk]

Just thought I'd share how I managed to install a NOCO X-Connect battery terminal harness (GC008) to be used with the NOCO GENIUS10 (or any other compatible Genius model) charger/maintainer in case anyone else was interested in how to route it and still have the positive terminal cover intact and in place with no permanent modifications or drilling. The access flap to the positive terminal doesn't snap shut completely now due to the wire getting in the way but is still able to be at least 95% closed.

I understand it's not required/necessary to install this or externally charge the 12V battery but it's good to be able to do so if ever needed, for the peace of mind of having a healthy battery, or to refresh the battery enough in case it eventually degrades to the point of needing replacement which could save me having to remove the frunk panel to jump start it. I'll also be able to use a multimeter to manually check the battery without taking off the panels again or using an OBD device.

(Notes: The GC008 has just enough eyelet-to-fuse length to clear the terminal cover unlike a universal SAE terminal harness I had, along with the perfect amount of overall length to route the harness where I wanted it. YMMV with other terminal harnesses. I also picked that specific positive terminal point because the other 2 potential locations wouldn't allow me to snap the cover back on properly. Installing this requires removal of all 3 frunk panels and the frunk tub, which is not difficult and mostly time consuming. Installing the negative eyelet to the ground post still allows the battery management system to function properly when charging the battery.)

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[PNWMME]

Just thought I'd share how I managed to install a NOCO X-Connect battery terminal harness (GC008) to be used with the NOCO GENIUS10 (or any other compatible Genius model) charger/maintainer in case anyone else was interested in how to route it and still have the positive terminal cover intact and in place with no permanent modifications or drilling. The access flap to the positive terminal doesn't snap shut completely now due to the wire getting in the way but is still able to be at least 95% closed.

I understand it's not required/necessary to install this or externally charge the 12V battery but it's good to be able to do so if ever needed, for the peace of mind of having a healthy battery, or to refresh the battery enough in case it eventually degrades to the point of needing replacement which could save me having to remove the frunk panel to jump start it. I'll also be able to use a multimeter to manually check the battery without taking off the panels again or using an OBD device.

(Notes: The GC008 has just enough eyelet-to-fuse length to clear the terminal cover unlike a universal SAE terminal harness I had, along with the perfect amount of overall length to route the harness where I wanted it. YMMV with other terminal harnesses. I also picked that specific positive terminal point because the other 2 potential locations wouldn't allow me to snap the cover back on properly. Installing this requires removal of all 3 frunk panels and the frunk tub, which is not difficult and mostly time consuming. Installing the negative eyelet to the ground post still allows the battery management system to function properly when charging the battery.)

Following and curious. If you are going through all the effort, wouldn’t you want to extend the harness so it is accessible via the access port in the bumper?

background -

When we went to pick up our MME it had a dead 12v battery so I got a front row seat to the salesman on YouTube going through the steps. It was quite absurd seeing the steps (wondering what the heck we were getting into for our 12th leased EV in the family). Turned out it wouldn’t hold a charge and they replaced it before giving us the car.

 

[J&S K]

Mike,
Looks like an easy and clean solution. Could you furnish the location on where to buy the "NOCO X-Connect battery terminal harness (GC008)" and it's mating cable for a charger? Or maybe better yet a link to where to purchase. Thx Joe

 

[HuntingPudel]

Following and curious. If you are going through all the effort, wouldn’t you want to extend the harness so it is accessible via the access port in the bumper?

background -

When we went to pick up our MME it had a dead 12v battery so I got a front row seat to the salesman on YouTube going through the steps. It was quite absurd seeing the steps (wondering what the heck we were getting into for our 12th leased EV in the family). Turned out it wouldn’t hold a charge and they replaced it before giving us the car.

@markboris did something similar but he put it in the charge port area. He used a bulkhead connector that NOCO has. The front bumper would be a bad place since it's more susceptible to crash damage (which is why Ford put the charge port where they did, behind the front wheel). A live 12V cable up there would be bad. ??

I just put a race car jump point under the frunk lid. Still can't get to it if the battery is kaput, but it's handy for doing FDRS updates and has the added advantage of being able to take a pretty decent amperage level (more if I decide that I want to use bigger cables). ??

 

[PNWMME]

@markboris did something similar but he put it in the charge port area. He used a bulkhead connector that NOCO has.

That seems quite logical (anyone from Ford listening?). Taking apart the car to 1) gain access to frunk, then 2) more parts and popping trim clips to get to the battery is awkward at best.

 

[rhfritz]

There's a lot of blank space behind the charge port cover. What would make sense is if there were some sort of lugs behind the charge port cover since that doesn't involve trying to jump the bumper connection first in order to get the frunk to open.

 

[hartmms]

Thanks for this post. I just ordered the same NOCO cable. Glad to see it can reach to the existing opening in the cover.

 

[Mike_Hawk]

Following and curious. If you are going through all the effort, wouldn’t you want to extend the harness so it is accessible via the access port in the bumper?

That would require using the NOCO 10-foot extension cable and for me that would be overkill and honestly not necessary. Also, it's easier to simply pop the frunk open. This isn't intended to jump start the battery anyway. If the battery is that dead, then it's easy enough to apply a jump starter or 12V source to the bumper access port terminals to open the frunk and then you're back to square 1.

Mike,
Looks like an easy and clean solution. Could you furnish the location on where to buy the "NOCO X-Connect battery terminal harness (GC008)" and it's mating cable for a charger? Or maybe better yet a link to where to purchase. Thx Joe

Amazon or the NOCO site itself (http://no.co), which is sometimes cheaper than Amazon, or similar. If you don't mind waiting, the only time NOCO drops prices is during Black Friday/Cyber Monday. That's when I waited to grab the GENIUS10 and a GBX55 jump starter.

Thanks for this post. I just ordered the same NOCO cable. Glad to see it can reach to the existing opening in the cover.

Happy to help! You would think NOCO designed it for us with just the right length. Too bad they didn't make the eyelet boot smaller! That was a huge hinderance to installing it on the other positive terminals.

 

[Mike_Hawk]

@markboris did something similar but he put it in the charge port area. He used a bulkhead connector that NOCO has. The front bumper would be a bad place since it's more susceptible to crash damage (which is why Ford put the charge port where they did, behind the front wheel). A live 12V cable up there would be bad. ??

I just put a race car jump point under the frunk lid. Still can't get to it if the battery is kaput, but it's handy for doing FDRS updates and has the added advantage of being able to take a pretty decent amperage level (more if I decide that I want to use bigger cables). ??

That is quite a sexy installation! I actually would've preferred to do that if I didn't mind modifying the panel for the exact reasons you stated. However, I'm much more comfortable doing non-permanent modifications since I don't trust myself with drilling and cutting.

I don't know how easy it is to unhook that jump point in case the panel needs to come off completely and away from the car. I wouldn't mind the task myself and I'm sure it'll rarely have to happen, but if for some reason Ford needs to get in there I'd be hesitant trusting them to do so.

 

[GT-Papa]

I like this and am going to do it. My local Batteries + outlet has the GC008 cable in stock and I also have the Genius10.

 

[HuntingPudel]

.
<SNIP>
I don't know how easy it is to unhook that jump point in case the panel needs to come off completely and away from the car.
<SNIP>

See my Frunk Tub Removed thread. I used a quick-disconnect that eventually melted after a few FDRS sessions (sure it can handle 50A - I put 43A through it). Then I changed that to a forklift charging quick disconnect. So far, so good. ??

 

[Mike_Hawk]

See my Frunk Tub Removed thread. I used a quick-disconnect that eventually melted after a few FDRS sessions (sure it can handle 50A - I put 43A through it). Then I changed that to a forklift charging quick disconnect. So far, so good. ??

Ah, good idea then!

The link was broken BTW. https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/frunk-tub-removed-pics.12094

 

[HuntingPudel]

Ah, good idea then!

The link was broken BTW. https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/frunk-tub-removed-pics.12094

Oops, must have deleted something or typed something additional into the URL box. Fixed. ??

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