Completely locked out 😭

[Sikkun]

Possible a big update (like BC 1.3) is causing the battery to drain a bunch and the big battery is not recharging it correctly.

Which also sounds like the type of issues that lead to the paused rollout of 1.3 last time from what I’ve read….

Also a lot of 2023’s sat on the lot a year plus, my battery was completed dead when I bought the car. A lot of these 23’s probably have highly sulfurated batteries that either needed a long recondition or just replaced.

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[rreddy3]

Possible a big update (like BC 1.3) is causing the battery to drain a bunch and the big battery is not recharging it correctly.

Which also sounds like the type of issues that lead to the paused rollout of 1.3 last time from what I’ve read….

Also a lot of 2023’s sat on the lot a year plus, my battery was completed dead when I bought the car. A lot of these 23’s probably have highly sulfurated batteries that either needed a long recondition or just replaced.

BC 1.3 update installed last night on my 23.5. Built about mid July’23, logged into dealer about a month later. Car sat until I bought it on March 21. Call it 7 months. (The RDX I had previously was bought by me about 9 months after the build date. The battery was an issue on that car. I finally bit the bullet and paid for a new one. OEM battery was just in spec enough to not be a warranty issue. No issues after the new RDX battery.) The dealer I bought the MME from installed a new 12v battery in the car shortly before I took delivery. I was lucky on that one. I also charged the car at reduced 30A rate from about 76% to 90% last evening which brought the baby battery up to 93% according to ford.com. So far so good.

 

[zvez]

How will this help? From what I've read you can't get into the car at all as the theory is the 12V only mostly dead and there's a big difference between mostly dead and all dead (IYKYK). Therefore the frunk pop cables don't work and you can't get to the battery to jump the car. Unless you can wait out the 12V and it eventually completely dies.

I've been reading a number of posts of people being locked out after an update, but the 12v was not dead. So the $64k question, is an uupdate bricking the car?

 

[67 Stang Convertible]

I did a quick search of the thread if anyone else was having the same issue... but guess I didn't search the right thing... or didn't go far enough back through the results.


Yes I did

https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/complete-lockout-after-ota-update.37399/

 

[garyd9]

I've been reading a number of posts of people being locked out after an update, but the 12v was not dead. So the $64k question, is an uupdate bricking the car?

I think the question is too generic. I don't think "an update is bricking the car." I think it's possible the car is getting "bricked" (not really) during an update. I suspect the update is successful, but it's leaving the battery at too low a charge to function properly.

Sadly, this is all guessing.

 

[Track9979]

go to fordpass app > settings > update details to see which update was the culprit.

Reposting from Dan Gearhart from MachE facebook group on a potential solution:

Update 2:
The updated that caused the issue was:
24-PU0301-BLM-PE
After 5 roadside assistance attempts to get my car to the dealership (RSA kept sending the same company that didn’t have the equipment), I took matters into my own hands.
1) drained the 12v battery by basically sending the lock and unlock command from the key fob over and over keeping the computer awake.
2) once the 12v battery was drained, I was able to pop the frunk using the bumper jumpers
3) took the frunk apart and disconnected the 12v battery for 30min to make sure that there was no residual juice in the system (probably could have skipped this)
4) connected the battery and jumped it using the connection points recommended in the user manual
5) immediately opened the door and started the car while the 12v jump pack was still connected.
6) disconnected the jump pack and drove directly to the dealership (12 miles away)
7) had to jump the car while at the dealership because it didn’t charge enough. Drove the car back home but leaving it on for an hour.
—Keeping the window down tonight to make sure I can get in again.
I’ll update again if there are more issues.

 

[zvez]

I think the question is too generic. I don't think "an update is bricking the car." I think it's possible the car is getting "bricked" (not really) during an update. I suspect the update is successful, but it's leaving the battery at too low a charge to function properly.

Sadly, this is all guessing.

I really think at this stage generic is all we can say about it tho. Brick is a pretty good description of not being able to get in the car, not being able to open the frunk with a 12v source and having to get it towed to a dealer who apparently at least as some have reported, that they're unable to get into the car either.

 

[Gungrave223]

https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/complete-lockout-after-ota-update.37399/

Dang that was just the other day... welp I feel better knowing I'm not the only one ?

 

[zvez]

go to fordpass app > settings > update details to see which update was the culprit.

Reposting from Dan Gearhart from MachE facebook group on a potential solution:

Update 2:
The updated that caused the issue was:
24-PU0301-BLM-PE
After 5 roadside assistance attempts to get my car to the dealership (RSA kept sending the same company that didn’t have the equipment), I took matters into my own hands.
1) drained the 12v battery by basically sending the lock and unlock command from the key fob over and over keeping the computer awake.
2) once the 12v battery was drained, I was able to pop the frunk using the bumper jumpers
3) took the frunk apart and disconnected the 12v battery for 30min to make sure that there was no residual juice in the system (probably could have skipped this)
4) connected the battery and jumped it using the connection points recommended in the user manual
5) immediately opened the door and started the car while the 12v jump pack was still connected.
6) disconnected the jump pack and drove directly to the dealership (12 miles away)
7) had to jump the car while at the dealership because it didn’t charge enough. Drove the car back home but leaving it on for an hour.
—Keeping the window down tonight to make sure I can get in again.
I’ll update again if there are more issues.

This is brilliant and have to keep this in mind it happens to me. Keeping the window open seems like good advice to if in the garage, as I have my car set to update at night. I'm trying to recall if I got this update, I'm not sure that I did. At first blush it seems like the update is taking the 12v too low to open the doors but not low enough to trigger the frunk open procedure with use of pigtails and 12v source.

 

[garyd9]

RFA update? Could use 1 or 2 more reports on which OTA. I wouldn't be surprised if the RFA update caused an issue. When I did that update via FDRS, it took longer than I expected and has some strange side-effects.

 

[Sikkun]

RFA update? Could use 1 or 2 more reports on which OTA. I wouldn't be surprised if the RFA update caused an issue. When I did that update via FDRS, it took longer than I expected and has some strange side-effects.

That the one where it kept getting data error and you could only install if you ignored the prompts and just kept the cord connected longer?

 

[67mustang]

BC 1.3 update installed last night on my 23.5. Built about mid July’23, logged into dealer about a month later. Car sat until I bought it on March 21. Call it 7 months. (The RDX I had previously was bought by me about 9 months after the build date. The battery was an issue on that car. I finally bit the bullet and paid for a new one. OEM battery was just in spec enough to not be a warranty issue. No issues after the new RDX battery.) The dealer I bought the MME from installed a new 12v battery in the car shortly before I took delivery. I was lucky on that one. I also charged the car at reduced 30A rate from about 76% to 90% last evening which brought the baby battery up to 93% according to ford.com. So far so good.

Where are you seeing 12V SOC on ford.com??

 

[garyd9]

That the one where it kept getting data error and you could only install if you ignored the prompts and just kept the cord connected longer?

RFA was the one (for me) that caused DTC's in the APIM module and completely disabled SiriusXM (giving me a "Hardware Error.") The DTC wouldn't clear from a normal "clear and retest." I had to turn off the car and walk away for 20 minutes. Then I was able to clear the error and SiriusXM started working again.

This was the only FDRS module I did where I thought I might have actually broken something.

 

[Track9979]

Where are you seeing 12V SOC on ford.com??

Under "your account". Charge level is 12V
https://www.ford.com/myaccount/?gnav=header-account-targetnav

 

[67mustang]

Under "your account". Charge level is 12V
https://www.ford.com/myaccount/?gnav=header-account-targetnav

Ahhh, I thought that was the charge on the car and that ford.com was just behind updating because it never matched up with the app. Never used that page much because I'd just use Vehicle Dashboard or FordPass.

Good to know though!

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