Melted 240V outlet (Major Disaster Avoided) -- PSA: only highly rated charging equipment

[Richard L.]

I see the suggestion to dial back the amperage from 40 to 32 or 36 on the Juicebox. How is this done not that the app is no longer functional after being decomissioned by Enel X?

My app is still fully functioning and Enel X is looking for a provider to take the reigns.

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[Blue highway]

BINGO! that was the first thing I was thinking when he said " Never seen that unless it was unplugged. " I was reading up a ton on the outlets before having mine installed and the consensus SEEMS to be that the unplug it, plug it in will eventually wear on the contacts where arcing can (and did in this case) occur.



Same scenario. Did you use your level one charger ina preexisting outlet that was frequently used? Arcing can and will occur in older outlets as well..

hmmm... there is no consensus that this only happens when it is unplugged frequently... yes, plugging in and un-plugging will eventually cause a problem, but there are outlets that have failed that have only been plugged into once.

 

[Blue highway]

I had a licensed electrician install my outlet back in 2020. Started charging with my JuiceBox 40 in February 2021 pulling 40 amps. One day while charging I smelled burning plastic. I'm a retired Mechanical/Electrical Engineer. I pulled the melted outlet. It was a cheap Leviton and not properly torqued. The plug on the JuiceBox was charred but still functioned. I replaced it myself with a Hubbell and torqued it to 75 in/lb. Trouble free for the last 3 years.

I think most DIYers and many electricians underestimate how much torque is required on these things.

 

[HuntingPudel]

hmmm... there is no consensus that this only happens when it is unplugged frequently... yes, plugging in and un-plugging will eventually cause a problem, but there are outlets that have failed that have only been plugged into once.

The outlet does not need a lot of connection/disconnect events. It’s more in the design of the interface of the receptacle and even more so in the designs of the interface where the wires connect to the receptacle. If the screws directly connect to the wire and smash the wire into the receptacle, that’s bad for several reasons (abrasion of the conductors leading to impedance issues, mechanical issues regarding torque, thermal issues due to the fastener being directly in the thermal tree, etc.). A design where the wire is clamped into the receptacle is highly superior (but more expensive due to the addition of a couple of parts). ??

 

[dabois89]

I bit the bullet and got my Grizzl E hardwired by an electrician, ive been through one house fire in my life, never again.

 

[dgilles428]

So, pulled up my Ford Pass App this morning expecting to see it at 80% SOC just like every time I home charge for the last 40 months of life; and yet I see “Charge Error” with a red banner or writing, can’t recall now.

So, I go look at my Juice Box and there are no lights on. Never seen that unless it was unplugged. I glance at the outlet & you can see what I see. What appears a melted crumbling outlet.

The 240 was installed by a licensed electrician but I did switch the receptacle to one that fit the Juice Box over 3 years ago (January 2020). The receptacle was from Home Depot & I’m assuming that is the weak link ?.

I’m fully aware this could have escalated into a serious house/EV fire ? in the middle of the night ( as the car is set to start charging at midnight).

I am posting this primarily as a warning since I’ve seen a lot of new avatars on the forum this year. Please use only highly rated charging equipment ( not the $15 Home Depot) outlet like I did let only Certified & experienced electricians install these Home EV chargers!!!

Now I’m in the market for a new charger. Watched Tim Malogahney’s 2024 review, but am open to suggestions on chargers. This one will be hard wired!!!!

For those newbies go to YouTube and search “State of Charge” for best and latest charger info.

How many amps were you charging at? My Ford Mobile charger that I used the last 3 years only draws 24-30 amps, and charges at 6 kw . That seems more than enough to charge overnight, any higher rate just causes excessive heat on wires, outlets, breakers for no reason.

 

[67 Stang Convertible]

How many amps were you charging at? My Ford Mobile charger that I used the last 3 years only draws 24-30 amps, and charges at 6 kw . That seems more than enough to charge overnight, any higher rate just causes excessive heat on wires, outlets, breakers for no reason.

It's been over 3 years, but if memory serves it was 40 amps. It's possible it was set at 32. But I'd generally get 9kw flowing.

 

[kdonnel]

It's not just EV outlets that can be a danger.

Years ago at a different house....

My wife uses the same outlet every day for her hair dryer. One day it didn't work. I checked the outlet and there was no power. Opened the fuse box and found the wires burned at the breaker for the bathroom. The consistent use of a 2000 watt hair dryer had heated up the wire, then it cooled, and so on. The result was a loose connection at the breaker. The connection was probably not torqued right the day it was installed.

It is good practice to periodically check the torque at the breaker and the outlet of a high draw device, at least once a couple months after installation.

 

[ChasingCoral]

I guess. However, most of us can't tell the difference between "industrial" and "commercial". What we can tell is that there is no advantage to plugin connection. I'm sure someone will bring up the "what if I want to move and take my charger with me" argument. But that will be years from now and the cost difference will be minimal ($50-$100 on top of running a new connection) and may not even happen before you need a new charger.

The ones you want will say Industrial or Commercial grade on the box. Some say designed for EVs. Also, if it’s less than $20 you don’t want it. You want the ones that are $50-100.

 

[ChasingCoral]

Now I’m in the market for a new charger. Watched Tim Malogahney’s 2024 review, but am open to suggestions on chargers. This one will be hard wired!!!!

Good move to go hard wired. Before you look at new chargers, you might want to watch this video from Tom:

 

[67 Stang Convertible]

Good move to go hard wired. Before you look at new chargers, you might want to watch this video from Tom:

The funny thing is I saw this video over a year ago and thught...."I really need to switch out that recepticle"...... I guess my procrastination got the better of me!!! Totally on me!!!! Even if it is just the reciptcle, I'm just going to pay an elecrician for a service call and let him look at the breaker box and re-torque everything to proper specs...It's been over 3 years so I guess I was do for a reevaluation anyway? Are there any industry standards that say we should have these recepticles/breakers checked by professionals in certain time frames?

 

[67 Stang Convertible]

Question: if the Juice Box is ok, and it is just the recepticle; can the electrician just hard wire it??

 

[johnnycombo]

Buy the receptical with cover (cover hole is larger for industrial) yourself and then have an electrician install it! Also look for a new heavy duty plug end replacement. After seeing so many problems on forums, I installed smaller breakers and lowered the maximum charging amps on my hardwired ChargePoint Homeflex (now 40amps) and my 14-50 for my Grizzl-E mini (now 32amps). I really didn’t lose much on charging times, but I feel it’s much easier on the equipment . Regular torque maintenance is important for all connections. I use Noalox on my copper connections, it lubricates for a better torque setting and prevents oxidation. I’ve been using Deoxit on my RV plugs for years and now on my evse plug.
https://caig.com/deoxit-d-series/

https://www.idealind.com/us/en/category/product.html/noaloxr-noalox.html#30-032

 

[ChasingCoral]

The funny thing is I saw this video over a year ago and thught...."I really need to switch out that recepticle"...... I guess my procrastination got the better of me!!! Totally on me!!!! Even if it is just the reciptcle, I'm just going to pay an elecrician for a service call and let him look at the breaker box and re-torque everything to proper specs...It's been over 3 years so I guess I was do for a reevaluation anyway? Are there any industry standards that say we should have these recepticles/breakers checked by professionals in certain time frames?

See the last line from this video.

 

[Adventureboy]

Your EVSE might still be good. Replace the outlet with a good Industrial outlet such as the ones made by Hubbell or Bryant, then see if the EVSE is still good. ??

You WILL need to replace the plug on the EVSE as well as the outlet at a minimum. It will be heat damaged. It needs to be rated at the full 50amps.
Generally, incidents like this are caused by improperly torqued wiring connectors or simply crappy connectors on cheap outlets. Make sure it is tightened to the correct torque, then retorqued.

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