As Rick said, positive to battery, negative to ground. For the Mach-E, the ground post that’s on the body next to the battery.
You remove the ground post, slip the eyelet over the end of the stud on the bottom of the post and screw it back into the body. Now, I know the eyelet on the end of the connector is large enough to fit onto one of the several positive post connections on the LVB but not sure the eyelet is large enough for the body ground post.
Further down the strut tower are more body grounds for various car systems. One of those can be used as well and they are smaller than the big grounding stud near the top of the strut tower. Just make sure you do not use the clamp mounted to the battery as your grounding point. ??
Some of us added a much simpler access point:
The 12V battery “jump points” are: Positive located near the fuse box (D, circled in red). Negative is a post on a tan that is mounted to the driver’s side strut tower (circled in green). You must remove two of the beauty panels to access them. Really dumb On Ford’s part. ??
I added this:
I also have the cutouts so I can attach clamps from the PL6100 battery power supply when updating the MME's software.
That connector device looks somewhat large. How much room is behind the area you mounted it in? Was it easy to route the wires up to the battery?I also have the cutouts so I can attach clamps from the PL6100 battery power supply when updating the MME's software.
Ken, I'm getting back to you on the size of those eyelets on the CTEK 56-380 connector/battery indicator. They are large enough to fit over any of the battery's positive terminals and the main ground stud coming off the battery, going to the body. While I did not need to install this in my car, I figured since I had an extra one I would just in case I ever needed to charge my LVB without having to open the frunk or remove any panels. I also included the manual on the CTEK MXS 5.0 (1090) model I have in case you wanted to see the specs. The reason you don't see any of the LED's lit is they blink very quickly about every 2 seconds and none were lit at the time I took the shots.
I didn't measure the depth of it but it's around 1 1/2" deep. There is nothing behind in that area where I mounted the connector as long as you cut the hole in that exact area. I would actually move it over to the left about 1/8" if I had to do it again because it is up against the bracket on the right side that the charging connector is mounted to. It fit perfectly fine though.
I really like this modification because it allows access to the LVB without raising the hood. If the LVB is dead, just pop open the door and connect up a charger. There might be other reasons you can't or don't want to open the hood as well. Cool.I didn't measure the depth of it but it's around 1 1/2" deep. There is nothing behind in that area where I mounted the connector as long as you cut the hole in that exact area. I would actually move it over to the left about 1/8" if I had to do it again because it is up against the bracket on the right side that the charging connector is mounted to. It fit perfectly fine though.
It was very easy to run the wires to the battery. You need to remove the wheel/tire and the rear part of the inner fender liner to gain access to that area. It is all open up under there. You can see right up into the frunk area.
Here's a photo without the connector installed.
Thanks Mike. I've had that connector around for almost 3 years since I put one in my ICE Mustang which I use every few weeks. I figured better in the Mach-E than in the junk drawer. ?
hello,Some of us added a much simpler access point:
There are a couple of threads with instructions on how to do this.
BTW, here's what Ford says to do for storage:
There definitely needs to be an easy way of charging, trickle charging, maintaining the battery without opening the frunk and taking the car apart.
