Battery Coolant/Heat strategy needs work!

[Mopey]

I'm using Car Scanner Pro for Android. I've successfully used both VeePeak OBD-II OBDCheck BLE scan tool and the Viecar VP005 ELM327 V2.2 Mini OBD scan tool with Car Scanner Pro in both the FE and the GT-PE.

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[breeves002]

I think it is fascinating that you can hear the battery coolant loop shutting down. Do you actually hear the fluid circulating through the battery pack while sitting in the car?

I can sometimes hear the pump running while the car is charging on L2 but usually only when the shutters are open. If it's cool enough then they remain closed (after a quick function test) and in those cases I have to place my hand on the RH front fender to feel the pump circulating fluid.

One of my goals when I get time it to remove the trunk tub and plastic covers above and below and then figure out a way to actuate all the cooling loops and valves in order to see exactly how things function. The WSM is helpful but leaves a lot to be desired still.

Yep, this is how I understand it.

They do need to do a better job of giving some cabin heat while being able to heat the battery. Especially when charging at DCFC it should be able to just ram all the power it can into the heater and adjust the coolant temp. It looks at vent discharge temp too to know how warm the air coming into the car is.

 

[Rpgonzalez]

Agree.
It also sounds like while in Combined Loop mode, and E-Heat turned off then by default all the heat will end up going towards the battery pack vs the cabin. Probably flows through the heater core but since the blend doors are closed then no air is passing over the core so that heat is retained in the fluid and then exchanges in the HVB pack. Sound about right?

So what your saying is that if I try to game the system by turning e-heat off but scavenge some heat from the battery coolant to heat the cabin that is a no-go because the coolant heat doesn’t even go in to the cabin?

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