Best Tire for the Mach E?

[MacheTX RT1]

Are you happy with the Primacy? Is there anything you would.like to improve? What's important to you in a new tire ?

I don’t think they will last beyond 30K. AWD with extended battery are very heavy cars.

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[tuminatr]

Which 19" wheels are you using? I've thought about switching to 19" when the time comes.

I have two sets a rotiform BUC-M for my summers {ordered but not here yet). The Quatrac are mounted on a set of stock Volvo XC90 recharge 19x8 here is a pic of me test fittings them.

 

[mkhuffman]

So I went on my first long drive with the car no matter what tires I had on, but today I drove with the new Michelin CC 2’s. so I’m not sure how to interpret my range. I started out at 100% 269 miles. It was in the mid 80s 95% freeway for 50 miles one-way 50 miles back. I was getting an average of 2.8 climate control and accessories were taking up a total 5% so I ended up driving 105 miles using 40%. I have 162 miles left so I don’t know what that tells me?

Not much. You are relying on the GOM which isn't reliable.

 

[Jerrytball]

Not much. You are relying on the GOM which isn't reliable.

I’m just traveling around local so how far should I take it down at percentage before I run over to my free Electrify America tomorrow?

 

[mkhuffman]

I’m just traveling around local so how far should I take it down at percentage before I run over to my free Electrify America tomorrow?

Personally I would avoid EA and only charge at home unless you are traveling. DC fast charging is more stressful on the battery and will reduce the health of your HVB faster than L2 charging. It isn't a huge deal, but I would save those free kW for a trip.

Also, I would not go much lower before charging. Low State of Charge (SoC) isn't good for the battery. Of course when on a trip, don't worry about it, but in normal use, keep it between 40% and 90%. IMO. I have frequently taken mine down to 10% or lower, but only when on a trip. In normal use I rarely let it get below 50%. (More than once I arrived at home with 2% SoC. My son was freaking out. I was fine. )

Anyway, what are you trying to measure with the trip to EA? You could measure the kW added and divide that by the miles traveled to get your true mi/kWh. But that will include charger loss, which can reach 10%, especially with L2 charging.

If you are trying to determine the efficiency impact of the new tires, you have to have good data before they were replaced in order to compare to after.

 

[Jerrytball]

Personally I would avoid EA and only charge at home unless you are traveling. DC fast charging is more stressful on the battery and will reduce the health of your HVB faster than L2 charging. It isn't a huge deal, but I would save those free kW for a trip.

Also, I would not go much lower before charging. Low State of Charge (SoC) isn't good for the battery. Of course when on a trip, don't worry about it, but in normal use, keep it between 40% and 90%. IMO. I have frequently taken mine down to 10% or lower, but only when on a trip. In normal use I rarely let it get below 50%. (More than once I arrived at home with 2% SoC. My son was freaking out. I was fine. )

Anyway, what are you trying to measure with the trip to EA? You could measure the kW added and divide that by the miles traveled to get your true mi/kWh. But that will include charger loss, which can reach 10%, especially with L2 charging.

If you are trying to determine the efficiency impact of the new tires, you have to have good data before they were replaced in order to compare to after.

Well, I appreciate all the advice. Unfortunately, the only reason I’m using Electrify America is because I don’t anticipating taking any trips for a while. The wife can’t travel and that’s why we move down to Mississippi so we could just do a little 20 minute drive to see family instead of waiting a year or six months and then traveling 2400 miles round-trip so that’s the only reason I’m using Electrify America at four cents a kilowatt charging at home, that’s fine. I just figured I might as well. Use my minutes or my kilowatts EAmerica lol

 

[Jerrytball]

Personally I would avoid EA and only charge at home unless you are traveling. DC fast charging is more stressful on the battery and will reduce the health of your HVB faster than L2 charging. It isn't a huge deal, but I would save those free kW for a trip.

Also, I would not go much lower before charging. Low State of Charge (SoC) isn't good for the battery. Of course when on a trip, don't worry about it, but in normal use, keep it between 40% and 90%. IMO. I have frequently taken mine down to 10% or lower, but only when on a trip. In normal use I rarely let it get below 50%. (More than once I arrived at home with 2% SoC. My son was freaking out. I was fine. )

Anyway, what are you trying to measure with the trip to EA? You could measure the kW added and divide that by the miles traveled to get your true mi/kWh. But that will include charger loss, which can reach 10%, especially with L2 charging.

If you are trying to determine the efficiency impact of the new tires, you have to have good data before they were replaced in order to compare to after.

You could probably also figure out my thought pattern as well. Just like with cell phones or anything else with a battery they always say you should let it go down as low as you can and then charge, and that will make the battery healthy. I guess it’s not the same with EV’s?

 

[mkhuffman]

Well, I appreciate all the advice. Unfortunately, the only reason I’m using Electrify America is because I don’t anticipating taking any trips for a while. The wife can’t travel and that’s why we move down to Mississippi so we could just do a little 20 minute drive to see family instead of waiting a year or six months and then traveling 2400 miles round-trip so that’s the only reason I’m using Electrify America at four cents a kilowatt charging at home, that’s fine. I just figured I might as well. Use my minutes or my kilowatts EAmerica lol

Advice is advice. In the end, I don't think it matters that much. Battery health is most impacted by age. Second is number of charge cycles. The way the battery is charged matters, but I think it isn't a big deal.

If you can L2 charge instead of DCFC, and it is not inconvenient, it makes sense to do that. Otherwise, don't worry about it. Just do what you want and worry about other things. It's a car, right? Just drive it and refuel it in the way that best fits your lifestyle. IMO!

 

[mkhuffman]

You could probably also figure out my thought pattern as well. Just like with cell phones or anything else with a battery they always say you should let it go down as low as you can and then charge, and that will make the battery healthy. I guess it’s not the same with EV’s?

Yep. Mobile phone batteries are the same way. I charge my phone to 85%. Never to 100%. To increase the life of the battery. I try to keep it above 40% as well.

 

[Jerrytball]

Advice is advice. In the end, I don't think it matters that much. Battery health is most impacted by age. Second is number of charge cycles. The way the battery is charged matters, but I think it isn't a big deal.

If you can L2 charge instead of DCFC, and it is not inconvenient, it makes sense to do that. Otherwise, don't worry about it. Just do what you want and worry about other things. It's a car, right? Just drive it and refuel it in the way that best fits your lifestyle. IMO!

No, I’m not one of those like it’s my car. I’m gonna do what I want. I take advice from anybody and like I said, especially with this it’s new and I don’t wanna screw it up if I can get ahead of the curve early so like I said, once I can get rid of these free energy.
Or I could sit down there to Electrify America and sell somebody electricity for less than what they charge in there and just have them pay me cash lol.

actually, I have to edit that if it’s not my car plugged in, they won’t get the free lol.

 

[tuminatr]

I don’t think they will last beyond 30K. AWD with extended battery are very heavy cars.

That would be disappointing, In that size if you want to keep the low rolling resistance and EV tuned I would do the PIRELLI P ZERO ALL SEASON PLUS. I have seen a few forum members install it and have been happy

Here is a link

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/pirelli-p-zero-all-season-plus-elect

 

[Mach1E]

Yep. Mobile phone batteries are the same way. I charge my phone to 85%. Never to 100%. To increase the life of the battery. I try to keep it above 40% as well.

People do the same thing with BEVs but it seems kinda odd to me.

You purposefully use less capacity (not fully charging) for fear of a……. Loss of capacity.

Scenario 1- 100% charge every time. Get 300 miles of range when new.

Scenario 2- never charge above 80%, get 240 miles of range when new.

Years go by. Studies have shown a few percent extra degradation in Scenario 1.

So you purposefully live on 60 less miles of range so that you might have a few extra miles less degradation years from now? What kinda logic is that?

 

[Victaaa]

I got around 41k on the stock Primacy tires. Just put the cross climate 2s on and love the comfort and grip in the rain. Haven’t noticed a big range hit and I commute roughly 600 miles a week.

 

[Guss-E 2021]

I'm going to use Wal-Mart because I like their $28/tire install service which includes road hazard protection. That's the best bargain I've found on install + warranty. I've actually used their road hazard coverage in the past with no hassles.

And the "boyz" at Wally world know how to properly jack up an MME? Always my No. 1 concern. I'd been going to the dealership (for rotations) because I had Ford Pass point to use and even then it was only $19 a pop. I'm out of point so I finally went beck to my small, independent mechanic for my inspection in March. He's a great guy and has hoisted plenty of Tesla's and Rivian's. He was very careful with my car. He's located walking distance from my office and like I said, he's a great guy. Very happy to be doing business there again. That being said, for something like tires, I'm still open to going where it's affordable. But not at the risk of damage to the battery of course.

 

[Jeff-NoVA]

People do the same thing with BEVs but it seems kinda odd to me.

You purposefully use less capacity (not fully charging) for fear of a……. Loss of capacity.

Scenario 1- 100% charge every time. Get 300 miles of range when new.

Scenario 2- never charge above 80%, get 240 miles of range when new.

Years go by. Studies have shown a few percent extra degradation in Scenario 1.

So you purposefully live on 60 less miles of range so that you might have a few extra miles less degradation years from now? What kinda logic is that?

So are you saying you charge to 100% every time? Just curious. I have no need for full range - I rarely see my battery drop below 70%, from a 90% starting point. But, when I have needed it I simply charge to 100% beforehand.

I am one of those people who doesn't routinely charge his phone to 100%. I charge to 80% most of the time. I'm never far from a charger. And then when I travel or otherwise know I may not be near a charger, I go to 100% Here's the logic - it preserves the battery, maybe only a tad, but 6 months in my phone's battery health is still 100%. So, when I need full capacity, I'm truly getting full capacity, not a slightly diminished capacity because (for my needs) I was needlessly charging to 100% all the time. To each his own - everybody's needs vary.

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