Budget Build B&O Replacement No PAC Interface needed Kinda Maybe

[xRowdyxBurnsx]

So I finally have my aftermarket budget install completed! Sounds amazing on stock interior speakers too. One MAJOR issue which I will get to and hopefully get an answer. First though, materials:

4 GA OFC Wiring Kit $60
3-way Fused Distribution Block $20
3-way Ground Distribution Block $15
RCA Wires ($20-$100 your preference)
PAC Harness APH-FD02 $30 (EBay)
Kicker Keyloc $130
Taramps 2.4BT Pro $120 (Imported)
Soundigital 400.4 EVO 4 $130
Stinger MT 700.1 $140
Sony XM-3520 Vintage on EBay $80
(For Tweeters)
NVX 12” YSW Subwoofer $140
Sealed Subwoofer Box 0.75 CF $60

My total $945

If I could do it over I would have gotten the 5 Channel Stinger MT 1000.5 for $200 instead with no need to purchase the Soundigital or Sony amps as well as subbed out the NVX for a lower power Rockford Fosgate Punch P3D2 10” or 12” Sub. Cost would have been similar, maybe a little less.

Keyloc did its magic and combined with DSP, once I tuned Delay and EQs, the audio is now louder and clearer. The NVX I chose sounds amazing but it’s just a little too much, so I toned it down.

I’ll also note that I tapped the rear speakers for the Keyloc. The fronts do not get high frequencies due to crossover but the rears do.

This brings to the only one problem I have currently…hoping I can get some help from @markboris @MyLittlePony2022 @ElectrikPony

I lost my CarPlay Phone Audio. Chimes, bells and whistles still work with the exception of the Entry Jingle.

I am confused because I don’t know if it has to do with the B&O DSP or that I had to cut the Tweeter lead wires at the ACM and re-tie them to the wires coming from the Sony Amp. No wires were cut behind the stock B&O DSP.

I am hoping I can just reconnect the tweeters and get hands free back. I will just replace the stock tweeters with efficient aftermarket quality ones if this is the case. BTW, after playing around with my DSP, IMO, the tweeters are probably even worse than the rear mids.

I get a little sound on the Center Channel for Hands Free but not nearly enough to use it.

So yeah, hoping to hear an easy fix! Other than that, let me know if you have any questions. Happy to help!!!

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[iexiak]

I lost my CarPlay Phone Audio. Chimes, bells and whistles still work with the exception of the Entry Jingle.

You did the Keyloc and DSP tuning, did you use head unit signal for that? Does that mean the head unit is working for bluetooth or USB, just not for car play?

You might try getting an OBII dongle and reading any codes present with Forscan. Errors would be under the ACM section.
https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2540

 

[iexiak]

From a friend that worked on the audio on this car -

 

[markboris]

Hey Matt, I see you tagged me but on the Mach-E I've never messed much with the audio system as several other members here have. The most I've done was to add a sub on several cars and on one an amp right after the B&O DSP for more power. Never messed with aftermarket DSP's, etc. Not sure why you don't have wireless CarPlay but hopefully another member can chime in about this.

 

[xRowdyxBurnsx]

@iexiak Thanks for taking the time to do that for me. Sounds like if I reconnect the tweeters to ACM I can get some back. I found a good set of high efficiency tweeters that can be crossed over at 2k hz to replace factory tweeters and probably will be just as good as the 35RMS I am sending through the amp currently.

@markboris Yeah, so I wasn’t sure if your setup with the 4 channel amp has the PAC interface or other on it since you have two MMEs. If not, sounds like my problem is certainly amping the tweeters since you have no issues with your phone.

What I really don’t understand is I get all other sound through CarPlay except phone calls! I am using wireless CarPlay btw.

 

[xRowdyxBurnsx]

@iexiak Curious, I was under the assumption that the fronts were not full range because the tweeters are separate. Anyone know for sure? I will just re-wire and tap the fronts to get the phone back based on his thoughts. Guessing if @markboris has not done an interface, is using CarPlay, that would hold true.

 

[iexiak]

Sounds like if I reconnect the tweeters to ACM I can get some back. I found a good set of high efficiency tweeters that can be crossed over at 2k hz to replace factory tweeters and probably will be just as good as the 35RMS I am sending through the amp currently.

I mean it's kind of a fix, but also go to an online tone generator and play 2khz...it's much higher than most voices (you get this high on the sizzly/sibilant part of 's' but not much else). I wouldn't view this as a fix.

What I really don’t understand is I get all other sound through CarPlay except phone calls!

Phone calls only go to the front channels in our car, and you grabbed signal from the rears. You might try moving the fader to the rear and seeing if phone call/hands free then directs to the rear...but I have a feeling it completely bypasses the fader and just sends to the front based on discussion with Harman engineer friend.

Curious, I was under the assumption that the fronts were not full range because the tweeters are separate. Anyone know for sure?

I'm really not sure how it is on the B+O cars because it's different from mine. I know that on my car the fronts have a high pass filter to protect the woofer but the rears do not, but again I have base audio and not B+O. My DSP is able to take in multiple signals and combine them into one full range signal, can yours do that? If not can the Keyloc do that?

 

[xRowdyxBurnsx]

Ok, think I am just going to go back and tap the front and see what happens. I would like to keep the 2 channel amp on the tweeters but if the front does not have 3k hz or so plus, I guess I will just remove the amp and then replace the tweeters.

Thanks for the help!

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