B&O Speaker Replacement DIY Write-up

[MyLittlePony2022]

@MyLittlePony2022 Great write up. If I’m just adding foam rings to the speakers (got a little rattle going on), can I access the door speakers from the mesh panel? What’s the process of removing those? Thanks!

@cbcasas The speakers are either attached to the door (front and rear woofers) or to the door panel (rear tweeter). Need to remove the door panels to get to the speakers or put foam in the front of them or behind the speakers. The Ford repair manual had instructions on removal of the door panels. It is somewhat the same for most cars, so if you have removed panels before, you should be able to remove these.

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[ElectrikPony]

I would recommend anyone attempting this buy panel pull tools. You can use a screwdriver and a towel but the chances of maring up a new car are high.

I use this one

AFA Tooling Panel Removal Tool 11 pcs Remover for Door Trim Molding Dash Panel https://a.co/d/6Z6WXEs

 

[ElectrikPony]

Excellent write up -- I'm doing systems in both of my vehicles currently. While not exactly a soundstage of note, I setup alpine X series (not as efficient as the kappas) components, 6x9 fronts, 6.5 rears for my F150, on the floor in a room. I've got an audio control D5.1300 for the F150. In my browsing I came across this little JBL DSP amp rated 40x8, for $250 delivered. I bought it for shits and giggles. https://www.jbl.com/car-amplifiers/DSPAMPLIFIERDSP4086.html

After I setup the D5.1300 and tuned it to my liking, I decided, what the hell, let's see what the little JBL can do on the speakers. So I wired up all 8 channels using the tweeter protectors (X series sends full range to woofers, tw tap on the same poles via x-over / protector) I was astounded by the sound I was able to get out of it distortion free, even w/ the 6x9 woofers. My ears were hurting after playing with it for 2 hours. I only had 1 of the JL 10s and it wasn't able to keep up with the sound (powered from the D5, single 10 not able to keep up with the speakers on the D5 either, so not a surprise)

The JBL app was far easier to use than audio control's and even had better EQ options (up to 48db curves) while offering the same functionality (though audio control does have a BT module as an accessory, and its remote is also an additional accessory). It was wasn't laggy unlike audio controls (likely due to the 'live' EQ output -- not to be confused for an actual mic based EQ)

For tapping A2B of the B&O I'm using https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amppro-amplifier-interfaces/ap4-fd31

It allows separate control of the vehicles 'chimes' as well as allowing you to tailor the head unit's high / mid / bass control if you wish to integrate it as shown below. Works with both of project vehicles. The JBL will be going in the MME w/ a dedicated sub amp as well as dedicated LFP battery (adding one to the F150 as well).

The little JBL's performance is such that I'm reevaluating going to a 6 channel in the F150 and adding a dedicated sub amp. The little $250 amp has me questioning the $1000 one, that's just how surprising it is.

Where did you find this JBL amp for $250.00? Cheapest I have found is $349.00. Really wish you could bridge the channels. The tweeters don't need 40 watts rms, your ears would bleed!

 

[Hammered]

Where did you find this JBL amp for $250.00? Cheapest I have found is $349.00. Really wish you could bridge the channels. The tweeters don't need 40 watts rms, your ears would bleed!

It was on ebay. Seems the cheaper supply has dried up after I'd posted about it a few times. I got it more out of a curiosity. Seemed too good to be true. After powering alpine X 6x9s w/ JL C3 tweeters and C2 coax for the rear in a empty office test space, I couldn't believe it was able to match the audio control in sound. My ears threw in the towel before the amp clipped -- didn't find its clipping point. I've since transplanted those speakers into the F150, retaining stock center and sub for testing tomorrow, no not exactly apples to apples, but we'll see what it can do.

The wiring diagram for the MME shows the sub as having dual feeds from amp, haven't actually checked. I bet it'd be an economical alternative to re-tune the factory speakers and feed them with a little more power, though it's hard to beat even cheap speakers against factory paper 25w nonsense, especially with really efficient speakers and a dedicated sub/amp. That'd pound.

Like I said, I got that amp because I thought it'd be going back or tossed in the closet for an eventual garage stereo build. Now I'm considering putting it in the MME w/ some efficient speakers and 12 on a dedicated sub amp. I measured its power draw -- it could easily be fed from the factory amp's circuit. No bridging, though it does support 2 ohms on a channel. If it could bridge, it'd at least push a ported 10 for most listener's taste (not mine )

 

[markboris]

The wiring diagram for the Mach-E shows the sub as having dual feeds from amp, haven't actually checked.

The OEM subwoofer has a single voice coil/one input (one channel). The wiring diagrams for '21-'22 show one channel from amp to the sub. Green/Violet + Gray -

Wiring diagram

Amp connector

Subwoofer connector

Subwoofer.

 

[Hammered]

The OEM subwoofer has a single voice coil/one input (one channel). The wiring diagrams for '21-'22 show one channel from amp to the sub. Green/Violet + Gray -

Thanks Mark, here's what came w/ the AP4....

What's interesting is that this looks like the same sub from the F150, but in the MME they actually used decent wire size. The F150s looks like 22 or 24ga....
Pictured w/ 14ga for comparison

Bigger on the sub side, no excuse for this tiny nonsense

 

[markboris]

Interesting the PAC shows dual sub wiring but we know it's not.

According to the Ford repair manual, the wiring coming from the sub is 16 ga while the plug going into it from the amp is 20 ga. Like you said, no excuse for such tiny wire.

 

[Hammered]

Interesting the PAC shows dual sub wiring but we know it's not.

According to the Ford repair manual, the wiring coming from the sub is 16 ga while the plug going into it from the amp is 20 ga. Like you said, no excuse for such tiny wire.

I'm going to eventually hookup the little DSP amp to the MME to see if I can get more from the stock speakers as well as retune / retime it. Perhaps a 40% increase in power can overcome those tiny wires. It's just unfortunate to tap the A2B properly adds $500 -- at least the amp was only 250. The factory mids / highs are far better than in the F150, a little more power might just make them adequate. Perhaps a better 6.5 woofer in the front doors may be a good addition. Paper is such a joke.

The F150's tweeters appeared to be silk dome so I don't expect to gain too much from swapping them if the MMEs are the same. Not counting the bass, or lack thereof, the MMEs is pretty decent stock, it's just missing something. Maybe a few more watts and a DSP will do it.

 

[markboris]

I'm going to eventually hookup the little DSP amp to the Mach-E to see if I can get more from the stock speakers as well as retune / retime it. Perhaps a 40% increase in power can overcome those tiny wires. It's just unfortunate to tap the A2B properly adds $500 -- at least the amp was only 250. The factory mids / highs are far better than in the F150, a little more power might just make them adequate. Perhaps a better 6.5 woofer in the front doors may be a good addition. Paper is such a joke.

The F150's tweeters appeared to be silk dome so I don't expect to gain too much from swapping them if the MMEs are the same. Not counting the bass, or lack thereof, the MMEs is pretty decent stock, it's just missing something. Maybe a few more watts and a DSP will do it.

Agree. It is decent stock. My GT500 B&O system has a three way up front. 6.5 woofer, 3" midrange in the doors and a 1" tweeter in the A Pillar. It sounds like crap compared to the Mach-E. Sounds like someone threw a blanket over the speakers and no matter how I tune it with the stock EQ, does not sound nearly as forward and clear as the Mach-E.

As you said the speaker material is cheap but hey, they sound decent and you may be right. Add some decent power and they may come alive. I am under the belief that the amp should always have more power than the speakers can handle and I bet that little OEM amp barely has enough to properly power one pair of speakers let alone 7 of them. Now you have me thinking to upgrade the power.....

 

[MyLittlePony2022]

I replaced my speakers. Much better sound. The front speakers look ok. You should see the rear woofer speakers, junk.

 

[markboris]

I replaced my speakers. Much better sound. The front speakers look ok. You should see the rear woofer speakers, junk.

Oh yes. I had those doors apart on my premium two years ago. I know how awesome those speakers are...... NOT.

 

[bp99]

Paper is such a joke.

There's nothing wrong with paper cones. Paper is actually preferred by many high end speaker builders. I'm not saying the MME drivers are great, but to judge quality based on paper cones is misdirected.

 

[markboris]

There's nothing wrong with paper cones. Paper is actually preferred by many high end speaker builders. I'm not saying the Mach-E drivers are great, but to judge quality based on paper cones is misdirected.

I completely agree. Nothing wrong with paper cones at all. They can be put into cheap or high end speakers. However, the rear speakers are plastic like you would use for a credit card but 1/10 the thickness.

 

[Hammered]

There's nothing wrong with paper cones. Paper is actually preferred by many high end speaker builders. I'm not saying the MME drivers are great, but to judge quality based on paper cones is misdirected.

They're exposed to the elements in the doors as there's nothing on the rear of them. Some of us do have rain, and when some rain gets in the door and the sun comes out, they're continually bombarded with high humidity. It's also far more flexible and subject to distortion, granted not in the low teens worth of watts that get to them. Given where 'plastics' are today, particularly reinforced with any number of fibers out there, there's really no excuse to not migrate to a superior product. The base B&O upgrade costs start at $600. I wouldn't be surprised to hear that $500 of that slips right into their pocket.

 

[markboris]

They're exposed to the elements in the doors as there's nothing on the rear of them. Some of us do have rain, and when some rain gets in the door and the sun comes out, they're continually bombarded with high humidity. It's also far more flexible and subject to distortion, granted not in the low teens worth of watts that get to them. Given where 'plastics' are today, particularly reinforced with any number of fibers out there, there's really no excuse to not migrate to a superior product. The base B&O upgrade costs start at $600. I wouldn't be surprised to hear that $500 of that slips right into their pocket.

While I agree with what you are saying about paper cones being easily damaged do to the elements, I've had very hight end car audio speakers made with paper cones (basically hybrid mixed with other materials) that took a lot of abuse from both the elements and power with no issues. I do agree the ones in the Mach-E are cheap paper cones and might not last all that long. Speakers like these seem to go 3-4 year before they can have issues. I'm not keeping the car longer than 4 years so not really interested in changing them out at this time unless they fail before that.

Are you just piggy backing your little JBL amp after the OEM amp? Or are you eliminating the OEM amp and using the PAC. I have not been keeping up on what you are doing. I've been in suspension mode lately, not audio mode. ?

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