Dash Cams

[TheSteelRider]

Would you be open to sharing more info on what "Black Magic" is? I'm interested in adding a front (and maybe rear) dashcam to my Mach-E and would love to self-install vs paying for it, but also really don't want visible wires!

This ->

A power magic pro is a cutoff device for dashcams. In the MME they are completely useless because of their less than finite settings.

Normally the PMP would monitor voltages to ensure the camera doesn't drain the LVB however the device only has settings for 12v and 12.5v. The MME routinely drops below 12.5v on a normal basis and will never get below 12v because of the DC/DC charge from the HVB. Vicovation and a powemon are the only companies, that I'm aware of, that makes ones with finite voltage configuration that would work with the MME. So don't waste you money on a power magic pro.

We bought an 'X' series BlackVue (DR750x-2ch) which has built in power monitoring for parking mode (no external Power Magic or similar required). I bought a very large SD card, so the fact that parking mode is infinitely on does not bother me. Seems to work well for our needs.

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[jay1122]

Would you be open to sharing more info on what "Black Magic" is? I'm interested in adding a front (and maybe rear) dashcam to my Mach-E and would love to self-install vs paying for it, but also really don't want visible wires!

If you are looking for a basic front dash setup. I just installed a Garmin Mini 2 + Dongar adaptor recently. I think this is the easiest and cleanest DIY option. The adaptor branches the auto dimming mirror power supply to power the dash cam. No wiring run around trims, No tapping into fuse.

Dongar adaptor

Install Video

 

[PandaRacer]

A power magic pro is a cutoff device for dashcams. In the MME they are completely useless because of their less than finite settings.

Normally the PMP would monitor voltages to ensure the camera doesn't drain the LVB however the device only has settings for 12v and 12.5v. The MME routinely drops below 12.5v on a normal basis and will never get below 12v because of the DC/DC charge from the HVB. Vicovation and a powemon are the only companies, that I'm aware of, that makes ones with finite voltage configuration that would work with the MME. So don't waste you money on a power magic pro.

Thank you for the advice!

 

[PandaRacer]

If you are looking for a basic front dash setup. I just installed a Garmin Mini 2 + Dongar adaptor recently. I think this is the easiest and cleanest DIY option. The adaptor branches the auto dimming mirror power supply to power the dash cam. No wiring run around trims, No tapping into fuse.

Dongar adaptor

Install Video

Thank you so much!

 

[DevSecOps]

If you are looking for a basic front dash setup. I just installed a Garmin Mini 2 + Dongar adaptor recently. I think this is the easiest and cleanest DIY option. The adaptor branches the auto dimming mirror power supply to power the dash cam. No wiring run around trims, No tapping into fuse.

Dongar adaptor

Install Video

And I would heavily advise against using wire taps into the mirror.

The correct way to do this is to run to the fuse block. There's plenty of forum posts on how to do this correctly.

 

[yazoo888]

If you are looking for a basic front dash setup. I just installed a Garmin Mini 2 + Dongar adaptor recently. I think this is the easiest and cleanest DIY option. The adaptor branches the auto dimming mirror power supply to power the dash cam. No wiring run around trims, No tapping into fuse.

Dongar adaptor

Install Video

Thanks for Sharing the installation video. Very clean installation!.

 

[SteveJo]

Thank you for this! When you say "behind the glovebox and console," are you referring to removing them to lay the wire or using the butter knife to squeeze the wire into gaps?

No "butter knife" or removal required>

 

[x19]

We bought an 'X' series BlackVue (DR750x-2ch) which has built in power monitoring for parking mode (no external Power Magic or similar required). I bought a very large SD card, so the fact that parking mode is infinitely on does not bother me. Seems to work well for our needs.

Has the power monitoring been adequate for you or are you seeing the voltage drain warnings? I'm considering a BlackVue DR900 and trying to decide if I need the added expense of having a battery installed in line as well.

 

[The Black Horse]

And I would heavily advise against using wire taps into the mirror.

The correct way to do this is to run to the fuse block. There's plenty of forum posts on how to do this correctly.

why would you heavily advise against it? Seems pretty simple and clean to me

 

[DevSecOps]

why would you heavily advise against it? Seems pretty simple and clean to me

I've seen it cause a lot of damage and void warranty claims. Corvettes even come with a warning that tapping into it can cause electronic mirrors to fry.

Simple and clean doesn't = correct. It's not difficult to run to the fuse box and use an unused fuse. The MME fuse box is easily accessible and running 5' of wire is not hard.

 

[TheSteelRider]

Has the power monitoring been adequate for you or are you seeing the voltage drain warnings? I'm considering a BlackVue DR900 and trying to decide if I need the added expense of having a battery installed in line as well.

Yes works like a champ, no issues. I've never had battery drain warnings.

 

[BalsaDust]

And I would heavily advise against using wire taps into the mirror.

The correct way to do this is to run to the fuse block. There's plenty of forum posts on how to do this correctly.

The Dongar adapter is not a "wire tap" in the tru sense, it actually uses ford specific plugs to create a usb A connection so that you can plug in a std USB cable.
I have had mine setup with a Garmin Mini for the past couple of weeks and do not see a detriment to using it this way.
Now some cameras that draw a bit more current may be an issue but for me its working just fine.

Tony

 

[DevSecOps]

The Dongar adapter is not a "wire tap" in the tru sense, it actually uses ford specific plugs to create a usb A connection so that you can plug in a std USB cable.
I have had mine setup with a Garmin Mini for the past couple of weeks and do not see a detriment to using it this way.
Now some cameras that draw a bit more current may be an issue but for me its working just fine.

Tony

The logic is lost on me.

Tap into an electrical circuit that was engineered to be specific to it's designed purpose and risk damaging a critical component (i.e. camera and sensors used for frontal crash detection)

vs

Spend an extra 30 minutes and $0.10 on 5' of wire to do it correctly without the possibility of damaging anything.

To each their own but I wouldn't tap into anything especially since many mfgs are actually warning against it now. The tapping mentality comes from previous generations where cars weren't so computerized. Your car, your life, your risk all to save 30 minutes. In my book, that's being lazy and cutting corners.

 

[BalsaDust]

The logic is lost on me.

Tap into an electrical circuit that was engineered to be specific to it's designed purpose and risk damaging a critical component (i.e. camera and sensors used for frontal crash detection)

vs

Spend an extra 30 minutes and $0.10 on 5' of wire to do it correctly without the possibility of damaging anything.

To each their own but I wouldn't tap into anything especially since many mfgs are actually warning against it now. The tapping mentality comes from previous generations where cars weren't so computerized. Your car, your life, your risk all to save 30 minutes. In my book, that's being lazy and cutting corners.

Yes I agree, but argue the fact that the 30 minutes and $0.10 of wire would actually result in several hours of properly removing the A pillar trims, and hoping the clips don't break, searching the forums and a search of the manual or a trip to the dealer to find out exactly which fuse I can or can't use. then of course finding the proper wire to actually "tap" into. Then it comes down to how to actually tap in! With a history of airframe mechanics for the airforce, solder is never used only mechanical connections. That of course leaves out the common cut wire splice and solder technique.. Once completed a return trip to the dealer to get the replacement broken clips for the A-pillar and then put it all together.
Now looking at future repairs and the likelyhood of denied warranty claims due to added non-factory wiring, the thought of spending five minutes to remove the adapter seems like a better idea, at least to me.

As you can see, I looked at the possibilities, the advantages, and yes the disadvantages, and the outcome for me at least was the simple, well designed, product that saved me time and money in the long run.

Just sayin'

Tony

 

[Subliminal64]

Here is a How To video that may be of assistance. Good luck! You got this!

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