How to reboot the Mach-E?

Motomax

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Just like any electronic without a power button, remove power/reapply power. The vehicle electronics are 12volts so they run off the 12volt battery.
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Kamuelaflyer

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Most dealer know less then you can find here !!!!!! SAD but TRUE !
Once the OP has tried rebooting sync (for what it's worth), shutting the car down for an extended period of time and then possibly disconnecting the negative lead on the LVB, there's not much else to do other than take it to a dealer. Hardware does fail (unfortunately).
 

Crilly

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Are we sure it is not the corroded plug under the dash?
 
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Kabish

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I'm happy to hear that it reset itself back to a working state.

Using the key fob (not PaaK), I had to press the door button twice this morning, too. First press unfolded the mirrors and other wake up stuff. Second press unlatched and opened the driver door. No idea why, other than I haven't gone in for any of the SSMs or TSBs yet. December/early January build.
Yup, exactly what it did for me this afternoon. First time it's done that, normally it wakes up without any issue as I walk up.

Just like any electronic without a power button, remove power/reapply power. The vehicle electronics are 12volts so they run off the 12volt battery.
Yup, that was going to be my last resort. I "think" I know where you can do that at, but not 100% sure. I'm pretty sure I saw a post on here though on how to do it. Regardless, there should be a way to reset it without having to pull panels off and disconnect the 12v.
 

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Reading this makes me a little nervous about my Mach E order. My model S has occassional console screen rebooting problems My wife's model 3 has zero problems. My son's Chevy bolt has the same console screen rebooting problems. However, none of our cars have an issue with the dashboard instrument panel. Spooky.
 

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A while back I saw a post where the main fuse/breaker could be pulled rather than pulling the entire panel off for the 12v. Got to learn how to do that in case...
 

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  • Everything can be repaired with the right tool
  • The right tool is always a hammer
  • Anything can be used as a hammer
I have found that a large crescent wrench is much more versatile. It can be used as a hammer or used to strip the head off any bolt or nut. You can also use it as a makeshift weapon or to crack open nuts so you can eat them.
 

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A while back I saw a post where the main fuse/breaker could be pulled rather than pulling the entire panel off for the 12v. Got to learn how to do that in case...
Yes, @TheVirtualTim posted a video about releasing a couple of the latched connectors in the underhood bused electrical center.
 
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Kabish

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Okay rant incoming...

So Sunday night I DC charged to 81%, I typically DC charge once a week. When I got home I figured "Hey I'm on the SDGE EV plan, I might as well charge up what I can between 12am and 6am". I assumed I could get to around 87% maybe 90% and was curious to see the range at that charge. So I opened the app and told the car to charge to 100%. As you can see, the car said it would complete a 81% to 100% charge in almost an hour in the past, PRETTY QUICK CHARGE TIMES! I kind of shrugged it off and just let it do its thing. 7:30 the next morning it was still showing no miles added or kWh. However the car was showing a 88% charge if I'm not mistaken. This is where I got the crazy driver display issue.

Video of my display incase anyone wanted to see the issue.

Tonight I got off work early, so I plugged in my car around 1pm. Waited about 30 minutes and opened the app and stopped the charging. In my experience the car does not like being told to stop charging right after plugging it in so I wait. So around 10pm I told it to resume the schedule. Nothing, so I figured HEY its actually running the schedule right!! Nope, shortly after I get a message saying it could not charge for whatever reason. When I went out to the car it sounded like it was charging. I don't know if me walking out with the key woke its ass up or what. I went ahead and pushed the stop charge button on the car, unplugged it, waited about 30 seconds and plugged it back in. Now its charging (outside of my set times mind you). On top of that its complaining that it can't reach my "set" departure percentage of 87%..... LIKE WHAT?!?!?!?!?!?

I've also had the alert go off saying it can't reach my charge level of 82%... My car has never been set to 82%. I've also had the home screen report X percentage of battery and the details screen show a completely different number. Even closing the app, forcing it to refresh its still like 10% or more off on the home screen vs the details screen. And yes I did look, the home screen had been updated.

I'm starting to wonder if that 100% charge bug F'ed up my car somehow or if its this new version of FordPass. I have uninstalled, rebooted, and reinstalled the FordPass app. I don't "think" I was getting all these strange errors till after the 100% charge glitch. I might try the disconnect thing since Ford was so kind not to give us an option to reboot a computer on wheels....

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Kabish

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So dunno if anyone really cares, but here is some more "interesting" info, if nothing else to just document it for if this becomes a dealer issue.

I fast charged today from 24% to 82%. By the time I got home I was sitting at 78% when I pulled into the garage. I went ahead and plugged in my car, stated my desired charge of 80% would be completed at 04:43AM, so 2% in 4 hours approximately, which sounds right.

So just like last week, around 11pm I went ahead and told my car to charge to 100%. Said it was charging with a 78% to 100% charge being completed at 04:21AM..... A few minutes later I then get a notification saying my car could not be charged. This time I walked out without a key and the car was not charging from what I could tell. There were however some relays switching like the car was trying to do something. I unplugged the car, waited a good 30 seconds and plugged it back in. Once again some relay noises and no charging. Went back inside and hit the 100% charge and walked back out with my phone in airplane mode. This time the car was defiantly taking a charge, and I was able to verify it on the actual dash after disabling airplane mode.

Oddly enough, the "estimated" 78% to 100% charge is still 04:21AM which is without a doubt incorrect. I get about 2 miles of charge per HOUR. The car is estimating a 66 mile increase in range, that would take 33 hours with my charging lol Maybe the charge estimate is close buddies with the GOM.

I find the estimates when fast charging to be very accurate, they have always finished before the time estimated. The one time I charged at home where the car could make it, it was also accurate. However, when telling the car to go to 100% after it already has its mind set on a charge estimate off a schedule, it just freaks out.

I find this to be an issue, as the car relies on this information to have your car ready. If I absolutely NEEDED to have 100% in the morning, I would not be a happy camper if the car thought it could go 22% in 4hrs..

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Kabish

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Okay, now it’s trippen like it did this past weekend.

I think it hit 80% at 12:18 and now the system is freaking the heck out that I told it to charge to 100%. I stopped the charge, I have a place to be in the morning and can’t deal with a driver screen 10 seconds behind again.

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Kicking it is obviously not useful.
No but slapping the side of the larger monitor has stress benefits.

@Kabish You have your video of the lag of speed for your service department (does this happen all the time?). Your experiences are not common with everyone else's here and are just not right. To me all the bizarre events you are experiencing can not be software that everyone else is running and could possibly be defective hardware (a module or something else). You can not fix defective hardware with software and/or settings/resets. If it was me it would be time to take it to my service department, tell them your problems and tell them to fix it.
 
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Kabish

Kabish

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If it was me it would be time to take it to my service department, tell them your problems and tell them to fix it.
Ya... It seems like the issue if fully replicable however, so it should be easy for them to at least see. Only downside to that is that I have ZERO faith in them being able to fix it, let alone work on it without jacking up something else... I'm still waiting to get my dang factory door pad code. They "misplaced" it when I bought the car. I've driven to the dealership 3 times, texted the sales man a few times and I always get "oh you will have it Monday".

I enjoy my car, but I honestly can say I would not recommend it to any of my friends.

"Its a first run, it will have bugs", is not an excuse or a reason to have issues like a lot of people are having. Its just not acceptable and people have come up with a reason to excuse and justify it. Just like games now a days. $60 for a game that is basically non operational out of the box. Now people just expect it and still pay the $60 knowing their game will be broken for the first year... Its absurd..
 

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Ya... It seems like the issue if fully replicable however, so it should be easy for them to at least see. Only downside to that is that I have ZERO faith in them being able to fix it, let alone work on it without jacking up something else... I'm still waiting to get my dang factory door pad code. They "misplaced" it when I bought the car. I've driven to the dealership 3 times, texted the sales man a few times and I always get "oh you will have it Monday".

I enjoy my car, but I honestly can say I would not recommend it to any of my friends.

"Its a first run, it will have bugs", is not an excuse or a reason to have issues like a lot of people are having. Its just not acceptable and people have come up with a reason to excuse and justify it. Just like games now a days. $60 for a game that is basically non operational out of the box. Now people just expect it and still pay the $60 knowing their game will be broken for the first year... Its absurd..
Have you contacted service about the factory door code? They can get it from OASIS.
 
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