How-To: remove and replace your 12v battery - recommended at 36 months

[dtbaker61]

I’m trying to get it to 100% in order to reset the BMS for a brand new 12volt.

so, you may never see the 'new' SOC hit 100% until you set the BMS to start with the new battery... make sense? Your voltage of 13.3 indicates it hit end of charge and has been floating.... so follow the manual reset procedure, and after that you should see the 12v battery age at 0 months in ODB2/CarScanner.

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[CarsIMBwife]

so, you may never see the 'new' SOC hit 100% until you set the BMS to start with the new battery... make sense? Your voltage of 13.3 indicates it hit end of charge and has been floating.... so follow the manual reset procedure, and after that you should see the 12v battery age at 0 months in ODB2/CarScanner.

Sorry no, it doesn’t make sense to me. If the BMS uses 100% as the reset value and uses that as a baseline, wouldn’t 96% remove 4% of capacity from a programming/usage perspective?

 

[dtbaker61]

Sorry no, it doesn’t make sense to me. If the BMS uses 100% as the reset value and uses that as a baseline, wouldn’t 96% remove 4% of capacity from a programming/usage perspective?

error always creeps into BMS that count amp-hours, especially when under low current. The 100% re-zeros when end of charge voltage is reached, or manually reset with a new battery since not all batteries are the same.

Thats why you have to manually 'zero' the counter with a new battery when it is full and sitting at a known end of charge voltage.

 

[Mach-Lee]

Sorry no, it doesn’t make sense to me. If the BMS uses 100% as the reset value and uses that as a baseline, wouldn’t 96% remove 4% of capacity from a programming/usage perspective?

100% is not necessary. Above 90% is close enough, just go ahead and reset it. It’s a full reset so you won’t loose any capacity if it’s not fully charged, it will learn the true SoC afterwards.

An indication of 100% on the Ford BMS is unrealistically slow (takes days). The battery is actually fully charged well before that.

 

[CarsIMBwife]

100% is not necessary. Above 90% is close enough, just go ahead and reset it. It’s a full reset so you won’t loose any capacity if it’s not fully charged, it will learn the true SoC afterwards.

An indication of 100% on the Ford BMS is unrealistically slow (takes days). The battery is actually fully charged well before that.

Thank you. I just saw this this morning, and it was 99%. It took three tries, but I did get the battery icon to flash. Car is resting now.

 

[averyintucson]

Does anybody remove the cover panels around the frunk tub and just leave them off? The pros would be easier service access. Would would be the cons of not having the cover panels installed?

 

[HuntingPudel]

Does anybody remove the cover panels around the frunk tub and just leave them off? The pros would be easier service access. Would would be the cons of not having the cover panels installed?

The warm air from the heat exchangers will more readily be drawn into your HVAC system. Not so bad on a cold day. Not so good on a hot day. ?‍?

What’s wrong with this? ??

 

[dtbaker61]

Does anybody remove the cover panels around the frunk tub and just leave them off? The pros would be easier service access. Would would be the cons of not having the cover panels installed?

I leave off my back cover so I have easy access to fluid resevoirs, and have drilled holes in the drivers side for quick access to 12v and HV disconnect.

I did put side covers back on because there is a bit of weather-stripping along the edge, and some sharp edges if you leave it off.

 

[averyintucson]

What’s wrong with this? ??

I would be reluctant to mount anything permanently to the removable cover. I ran a cable from the battery jump points into the frunk and installed a high current connector. I think the cable is #6 AWG duplex. In this image, the gray connector is a PP120 which I use with my 1,500W inverter. The red/black connector is a P75 which I use for jumper cables and for accessories. The little black gimic at the end of the wires is a Bluetooth battery voltage monitor.

The second image shows the power cable in use with my inverter and a powerpole splitter for other accessories at a campsite. The silver box on the AC power is an RFI filter I built since this was powering a portable ham radio station.

 

[HuntingPudel]

I would be reluctant to mount anything permanently to the removable cover. I ran a cable from the battery jump points into the frunk and installed a high current connector. I think the cable is #6 AWG duplex. In this image, the gray connector is a PP120 which I use with my 1,500W inverter. The red/black connector is a P75 which I use for jumper cables and for accessories. The little black gimic at the end of the wires is a Bluetooth battery voltage monitor.

The second image shows the power cable in use with my inverter and a powerpole splitter for other accessories at a campsite. The silver box on the AC power is an RFI filter I built since this was powering a portable ham radio station.

I'm using the same grey forklift charging connector as a QD on my jump point so that I can take the beauty panel off with a minimum of fuss if I need to. I pretty much only take them off to remove the frunk tub. ??

 

[dtbaker61]

I would be reluctant to mount anything permanently to the removable cover. I ran a cable from the battery jump points into the frunk and installed a high current connector. I think the cable is #6 AWG duplex. In this image, the gray connector is a PP120 which I use with my 1,500W inverter. The red/black connector is a P75 which I use for jumper cables and for accessories. The little black gimic at the end of the wires is a Bluetooth battery voltage monitor.

The second image shows the power cable in use with my inverter and a powerpole splitter for other accessories at a campsite. The silver box on the AC power is an RFI filter I built since this was powering a portable ham radio station.

While I had everything out replacing the battery, I put in 2AWG cables direct lugged to ground post and 12v+ charge lug on battery terminal. nice solid connections that can support the full 150a output of the dc-dc to run to an inverter capable of a sustained 1500 watt load.

 

[AndyR]

Does anybody remove the cover panels around the frunk tub and just leave them off? The pros would be easier service access. Would would be the cons of not having the cover panels installed?

I leave my panels off.
I keep the tub in to hold my junk.
no cons, just not as pretty.

 

[dono]

I just changed my 45 month old battery out. It was still working fine. Purchased one from RockAuto for $142.00 + $18.00 core. I removed the rear and driver side panels but not the tub or left side. I only removed the Dr side of the shock tower brace and swung it toward the front of the car about 6 inches for clearance. I also had to remove the ground stud and wire to get it out of the way.Pushed the battery all the way toward the firewall and it lifted right out. It took me probably an hour and I was going slow..

 

[kennelh]

I just changed my 45 month old battery out. It was still working fine. Purchased one from RockAuto for $142.00 + $18.00 core. I removed the rear and driver side panels but not the tub or left side. I only removed the Dr side of the shock tower brace and swung it toward the front of the car about 6 inches for clearance. I also had to remove the ground stud and wire to get it out of the way.Pushed the battery all the way toward the firewall and it lifted right out. It took me probably an hour and I was going slow..

Same here. Total time took about 30 minutes. It was a lot easier than I expected. I bought it online from parts.ford.com; $132 + $18 core, but they're running a $20 off and with some FP points my total was $135.

 

[MyLittlePony2022]

I checked Costco and they don’t have the MME or the Lightening listed on their website for batteries. I did see it online from a dealer for $136 delivered.

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