Long term parking and preparation

[RickMachE]

ChasingCoral: Thank you, that was very helpful.
Everyone thanks for ideas. Here is my understanding so far.

IF storing the car for more than 30 days…
1. Make sure SOC is 50% or less.
2. Disconnect 12V battery.

Now that leads me to my next question.
What’s the best way to reconnect the 12V battery? (Going to leave it in the car).
1. If you close the frunk how do you open it w/o 12V battery?
I know there is a connector at the front so can I just attach my trickle charger there and pop open it?
** This would be ideal as I don’t leave car open to rodents etc. by leaving frunk slightly open. Besides snow weight might just close it shut.

Thanks

Answering in post #14.

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[rzanzerkia]

Rick I missed the link. I read through it. Still don’t know what power source to use for the front connectors?
I would like to experiment by disabling the battery and try to open the hood with front connectors.

 

[Maquis]

Rick I missed the link. I read through it. Still don’t know what power source to use for the front connectors?
I would like to experiment by disabling the battery and try to open the hood with front connectors.

A 12V jump pack that has an override feature to output power when not connected to a battery.

 

[rzanzerkia]

Update to anyone following in my footsteps…

1. I have this jump start pack from NAPA it’s called BlueFuel. It has 12 V cigerate lighter adapter only thing I had to do was Jerry rigged the two wires to connect to the 12V adapter.
2. First I tested with multimeter that 12V was showing at the leads of adapter.
3. I opened the hood and disconnected negative terminal (first remove the plastic cover).
4. I applied the 12V to black and red wires in the bumper. I could hear click click. So I knew it had power.
5. Next closed the car door and hood (little scary) with car battery disconnected.
6. I applied 12 V to bumper wires (didn’t hear clicks) but when I press the button on the door it opened the door.
I am thinking in step 4 I actually unlocked the car with the hood open.
So my observation is that 12V at bumper unlocks the car door and you can open the frunk with the handle inside the car afterwards…
I even closed the door (12V internal battery disconnected negative terminal), closed the hood and NO 12V to bumper wires. And pressing the round button at the door still opened the door.
I am guessing in step 4 I put a car in unlocked state so it didn’t matter if I applied 12V to bumper wires afterwards…

In summary once you apply 12V to bumper wires car is unlocked for good. I guess till you re-attach internal 12V battery.

I think I am ready to store the car for winter…]
PS: Is there an adapter to 12V plug (see pic) that would give me two separate wires?

 

[RickMachE]

12v at bumper is designed to open the frunk.

The door opened because it stores power for a bit...

Door depend because it stored power....

Multiple threads cover this.

 

[rzanzerkia]

12v at bumper is designed to open the frunk.

The door opened because it stores power for a bit...

Door depend because it stored power....

Multiple threads cover this.

Hmmm so in step 4 I did hear clicks (hood was open already).
So at this time in step 4 I assume car had drained all power if i heard the clicks…

Also did step 4 unlock the car too?
Because after that there was NO internal 12V connected OR 12V to bumper but I was able to close the door and hood and unlock the car multiple times.

I did have the car fob in my pocket.
I will have to repeat this experiment and give more time before applying 12V to bumper.

 

[RickMachE]

Disconnect 12v. Close frunk. Let it sit overnight.

Try to open door next morning. Nope.

Now, connect leads. Frunk pops open. Go try and open door. Nope.

Connect 12v. Door opens, same as if you charged 12v.

Again, you are exploring already discovered territory.

 

[Mach-Lee]

Update to anyone following in my footsteps…

1. I have this jump start pack from NAPA it’s called BlueFuel. It has 12 V cigerate lighter adapter only thing I had to do was Jerry rigged the two wires to connect to the 12V adapter.
2. First I tested with multimeter that 12V was showing at the leads of adapter.
3. I opened the hood and disconnected negative terminal (first remove the plastic cover).
4. I applied the 12V to black and red wires in the bumper. I could hear click click. So I knew it had power.
5. Next closed the car door and hood (little scary) with car battery disconnected.
6. I applied 12 V to bumper wires (didn’t hear clicks) but when I press the button on the door it opened the door.
I am thinking in step 4 I actually unlocked the car with the hood open.
So my observation is that 12V at bumper unlocks the car door and you can open the frunk with the handle inside the car afterwards…
I even closed the door (12V internal battery disconnected negative terminal), closed the hood and NO 12V to bumper wires. And pressing the round button at the door still opened the door.
I am guessing in step 4 I put a car in unlocked state so it didn’t matter if I applied 12V to bumper wires afterwards…

In summary once you apply 12V to bumper wires car is unlocked for good. I guess till you re-attach internal 12V battery.

I think I am ready to store the car for winter…]
PS: Is there an adapter to 12V plug (see pic) that would give me two separate wires?

Wrong conclusion. The doors WILL NOT UNLOCK if they were previously locked. The door modules remember their current lock state. So if your 12V battery dies while your car is locked, you will have get the frunk open and jump start the 12V battery (and have your fob present) before the doors will unlock and open.

You did not lock the doors before disconnecting the battery in your test.

The bumper leads only power the GFM or frunk module so it can open the hood release, and only when the 12V battery is dead or disconnected. That's it. It does not backfeed power to the 12V system or provide any other unlocking functionality. Your 12V power supply may not be powerful enough to open the latch while loaded, use a bigger battery (such as another car battery) in that situation.

 

[rzanzerkia]

Wrong conclusion. The doors WILL NOT UNLOCK if they were previously locked. The door modules remember their current lock state. So if your 12V battery dies while your car is locked, you will have get the frunk open and jump start the 12V battery (and have your fob present) before the doors will unlock and open.

You did not lock the doors before disconnecting the battery in your test.

WAIT A MINUTE…
For my purpose (winter storage outdoors)…
I could UNLOCK the car, disconnect internal 12V then close the door and put car cover and I am done…
Only risk I take is leaving car unlocked…

Gogin to experiment Rick’s steps just for my satisfaction so I can LOCK the car while storing

 

[Mach-Lee]

WAIT A MINUTE…
For my purpose (winter storage outdoors)…
I could UNLOCK the car, disconnect internal 12V then close the door and put car cover and I am done…
Only risk I take is leaving car unlocked…

Gogin to experiment Rick’s steps just for my satisfaction so I can LOCK the car while storing

Yes, but the supercapacitors in the door modules will drain after a couple days of being unpowered and the doors will no longer be able to open until the 12V battery is reconnected.

You can set the hood down without latching it under the cover FYI. Then you don't have to worry about all this.

 

[rzanzerkia]

Yes, but the supercapacitors in the door modules will drain after a couple days of being unpowered and the doors will no longer be able to open until the 12V battery is reconnected.

You can set the hood down without latching it under the cover FYI. Then you don't have to worry about all this.

I was thinking of leaving the hood ajar without latching it but with New England snow i am afraid weight might push it down? Still worth a shot if it works great if not do the bumper 12V trick.

 

[Maquis]

I was thinking of leaving the hood ajar without latching it but with New England snow i am afraid weight might push it down? Still worth a shot if it works great if not do the bumper 12V trick.

Something like a bean bag or small block of wood could keep snow from latching the hood.

 

[FordMachEGo]

I’m leaving for Europe for 3 moths and am thinking about leaving the 12 v battary attached but remote starting the car for about 1/2 hour every 2 weeks or so to maintain the 12 v battery. I’m also leaving the car in my garage with the window left open just in case the 12 v is dead when I get back. Alternatively, I can have someone drive the car once and a while but prefer not to take this route. Does anysee any problems with this plan?

 

[Mach-Lee]

I’m leaving for Europe for 3 moths and am thinking about leaving the 12 v battary attached but remote starting the car for about 1/2 hour every 2 weeks or so to maintain the 12 v battery. I’m also leaving the car in my garage with the window left open just in case the 12 v is dead when I get back. Alternatively, I can have someone drive the car once and a while but prefer not to take this route. Does anysee any problems with this plan?

Yes, you will only be able to remote start it twice before it locks out. Also a 15 minute remote start is not long enough to charge the 12V battery.

You should follow the recommended procedure getting the high voltage battery down to about 50% and disconnecting the 12V battery for a long absence. Personally I would unhook the 12V and put it on a BatteryMINDer. Alternatively, you can do nothing, leave it completely unplugged, and it will probably be fine when you get back.

 

[Schwartzcynthia]

I’m leaving for Europe for 3 moths and am thinking about leaving the 12 v battary attached but remote starting the car for about 1/2 hour every 2 weeks or so to maintain the 12 v battery. I’m also leaving the car in my garage with the window left open just in case the 12 v is dead when I get back. Alternatively, I can have someone drive the car once and a while but prefer not to take this route. Does anysee any problems with this plan?

I have left my 2022 MME in Austin for 9 weeks the last 2 winters unplugged outside and it has been fine.

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