Not The Typical Basic Dashcam Question (I think)

SnatrapS99

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So I have read all the threads (well a lot of them) about dashcams. And the more I read, the more confused I get. I want a dashcam installed, hardwired. I am thinking just the front (never had a rear one and never really wished I did). I want it to record stuff while the car is off. However, I do not want it recording 100% of the time. I have heard of motion-sensing technology for dashcams??? I also do NOT want to drain my 12v battery all the time. I bought the Garmin Mini 2 dashcam as I wanted something very small and it has all the features I think I need. I also got the Parking Mode Cable thinking that is what I needed to power the dashcam while the car is off. But then I read about things like CellLink and so on. Not entirely sure what that is, if it works WITH this parking mode cable or not. Whether I need that and not this cable. It is more important to me to not hurt my 12V than it is to have the ability to record when the car is off. So there you have it. I want a dash cam hardwired in my car with the ability to record if "shit goes down". I have not considered a rear camera recording out of the back as I mentioned above but maybe I should? ALSO!!! and this is very important, I do NOT trust myself to do this, nor do I want to. So I would likely take it somewhere and have all this installed. But, I need to know what to tell them and I need to get the hardware ahead of time. Thanks for reading this long, boring request. I appreciate any suggestions, guidance or instruction anyone may have to offer.
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Murse-In-Airy

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Sounds like you want:

A camera with a motion sensor

A backup battery so that parking mode works from there rather than a constant draw on your 12V battery.

you definitely want a rear camera, because parking mode that only sees in front of the car isn’t really any kind of parking mode.

If you want remote monitoring of the cams, you don’t need cell link and could instead get a camera that has its own cell antenna/ SIM card. You have to add it to your phone plan so make sure you get a compatible one.

May I present the. BlackVue DR900X with optional backup battery and LTE module:
Yours for only $930
Finding someone to install probably won’t be that difficult. But it does have a motion sensor built in, a battery that doesn’t draw off your 12V battery and recharges when the car is running, and the LTE module allows you remote access.
 
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SnatrapS99

SnatrapS99

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Sounds like you want:

A camera with a motion sensor

A backup battery so that parking mode works from there rather than a constant draw on your 12V battery.

you definitely want a rear camera, because parking mode that only sees in front of the car isn’t really any kind of parking mode.

If you want remote monitoring of the cams, you don’t need cell link and could instead get a camera that has its own cell antenna/ SIM card. You have to add it to your phone plan so make sure you get a compatible one.

May I present the. BlackVue DR900X with optional backup battery and LTE module:
Yours for only $930
Finding someone to install probably won’t be that difficult. But it does have a motion sensor built in, a battery that doesn’t draw off your 12V battery and recharges when the car is running, and the LTE module allows you remote access.
Wow that is helpful. But boy is that pricey! I will look into it for sure. Thanks.
 

Murse-In-Airy

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Wow that is helpful. But boy is that pricey! I will look into it for sure. Thanks.
Yeah. With ALL the bells and whistles it adds up FAST. I went with a camera that had a motion detector. But no battery backup. I trust the HVB to condition the 12V battery on my car (but I understand why some people don’t). I also went with no connectivity. I don’t want another device on my cellular bill. So I will just pull the card and review events as needed.
 

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Raja777m

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1. Can you use obd port insured off hardwiring?
2. Doesn't have remote monitoring but have wifi and can set when you want to stop recording in park mode (so you won't deplete the battery)

F200 pro dual dash cam is what I use.
 

Murse-In-Airy

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1. Can you use obd port insured off hardwiring?
2. Doesn't have remote monitoring but have wifi and can set when you want to stop recording in park mode (so you won't deplete the battery)

F200 pro dual dash cam is what I use.
Nobody has figured out how to use the OBD port in the MME for dashcams.
 

Murse-In-Airy

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Isn't it straight forward plug and play? Is there a video that they tried and failed?
Maybe someone has found a way since I was looking but both thinkware and blackvue at first didn’t have an OBD cable for their cams. In fact they specifically said their OBD wouldn’t work with Mach-E. I forget who, but someone here on the forum had worked with one of the major players in dashcams and couldn’t get the OBD connection to function. Hardwiring was recommended.
 

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thinkware u1000 hardwired. set it to motion detection. If you want alerts, you will need a hotspot or soemthing, but elsewise, it can alert you when you get back into car. If you going this fancy, minus well just add the rear too for a bit more. the most expensive part is the front.

Celllink is a specially made battery for dash cams. Its a lot more usefor for ICE cars to record longer periods of time. Our main battery will charge our 12v, so it's not an issue. those things are very very costly.
 

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Ryan,

First of all I have a post about this same thing here if you haven't already seen it: https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...a-dashcam-and-radar-detector.5542/post-262345

Second, and to answer your questions directly:

1 - Don't worry about the LVB (12v) battery that much. The people here who scream the loudest about the 12v issues have no idea what they are talking about 1/2 of the time. If your car is functioning properly your HVB will keep your LVB charged. That being said, I would still recommend a 12v cutoff for the camera should something go bat-sh*t crazy. This would prevent a complete drain and still allow you to start the car. It's mostly peace of mind and insurance. I would personally recommend a Vico.

2 - I would recommend that you get an LTE enabled cam. If someone hits the car while it's parked or if motion is detected you can get an alert in real time. I find it less effective to have a cam that can be stolen, vandalized or you're unable to respond quick enough to get the pertinent information from someone who has damaged the car if you don't have immediate reporting. What good is local storage if they take the cam? Other's have used non-lte cams with hotspots but there are options that have built in LTE like the one I have.

3 - What is needed to install:
  • 1x Micro 2 fuse tap
  • 1x Micro 3 fuse tap
  • 1x Micro 2 - 3-5amp fuse
  • 1x Micro 3 - 3-5amp fuse
  • 1x Bolt, nut and lock washer
  • 1x Loktite
  • Knowledge of always on vs switched fuse locations found here.
    • Hint - Micro 2's are all - always on
    • Hint - Micro 3's are all - switched
Most dashcams and voltage cutoffs come with all the wire needed.

If you have any other questions let me know.
 
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Murse-In-Airy

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Ryan,

First of all I have a post about this same thing here if you haven't already seen it: https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...a-dashcam-and-radar-detector.5542/post-262345

Second, and to answer your questions directly:

1 - Don't worry about the LVB (12v) battery that much. The people here who scream the loudest about the 12v issues have no idea what they are talking about 1/2 of the time. If your car is functioning properly your HVB will keep your LVB charged. That being said, I would still recommend a 12v cutoff for the camera should something go bat-sh*t crazy. This would prevent a complete drain and still allow you to start the car. It's mostly peace of mind and insurance. I would personally recommend a Vico.

2 - I would recommend that you get an LTE enabled cam. If someone hits the car while it's parked or if motion is detected you can get an alert in real time. I find it less effective to have a cam that can be stolen, vandalized or you're unable to respond quick enough to get the pertinent information from someone who has damaged the car if you don't have immediate reporting. What good is local storage if they take the cam? Other's have used non-lte cams with hotspots but there are options that have built in LTE like the one I have.

3 - What is needed to install:
  • 1x Micro 2 fuse tap
  • 1x Micro 3 fuse tap
  • 1x Micro 2 - 3-5amp fuse
  • 1x Micro 3 - 3-5amp fuse
  • 1x Bolt, nut and lock washer
  • 1x Loktite
  • Knowledge of always on vs switched fuse locations found here.
    • Hint - Micro 2's are all - always on
    • Hint - Micro 3's are all - switched
Most dashcams and voltage cutoffs come with all the wire needed.

If you have any other questions let me know.
Not sure if you saw My post here but I found a great spot for a ground that doesn’t require the bolt and loctite.
 

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Nobody has figured out how to use the OBD port in the MME for dashcams.
My Apeman cheapo dashcam from Amazon with an Aukey ODB motion activated power cable was working well in the Mach E 4X I had. Activated the camera whenever there was motion and the power all comes from the ODB. Haven’t used it yet in my new GTPE though because am still cautious about the 12V. I feel like it maaaybe interfered with pulling down OTAs but that may also just be the Mach E software being a shitshow.

http://old.aukey.com/products/dash-cam-hardwire-kit-pm-yy
 

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Here is a How To video that may be of assistance. Good luck! You got this!

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