Total miles on a 100% Charge

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Sinclair63

Sinclair63

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I have had mine as high as 400 miles in a full charge - Normal 350ish for me. In Florida & I drive like a Grandma! It changes based on my Driving & Tempurature.
Wow. That is great. Going to try and stay off the go fast pedal and see if it gets better. I have a 1965 Mustang convertible with a A Code engine that has several performance modifications and have a tendency to want to go fast.
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Wow. That is great. Going to try and stay off the go fast pedal and see if it gets better. I have a 1965 Mustang convertible with a A Code engine that has several performance modifications and have a tendency to want to go fast.
I wouldn’t change my driving habits just to see a bigger number displayed thatā€˜s almost meaningless anyway.

Your 65 looks almost identical to mine. I put a lot less miles on it since I got the Mach-E. The old girl’s too slow! ?
 
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Graction

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I have a GT non perf. On my last trip, about 115 miles each way, I calculated a 285 mile range based on battery %. It was 85 degrees, I kept it under 72 mph and the bad traffic helped the range.
 

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you will get *about* 3 miles per kWhr.... a little less on highway, a little more in stop an go around town. a little less driving over 75mph for extended distance. a little less going uphill, a little more going downhill. less when temp<50F, best at 70F...

are you getting the picture why the range estimate 'GuessOMeter' is always changing estimated range ?

'safe' estimate is 'around 3 miles/kWhr'

try to never go below 10%, and don't worry about charging to 100%.... although you will get the longest life out of the battery keeping it between 20%-80% most of the time, and slow (Level 2) charging rather than DCFC fast charging when possible (which heats up batteries and can speed formation of dendrites internally)
 

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You're new, so you have a lot to learn about how the range meter works. In short, the number you see varies from day to day and that's normal/fine. It DOES NOT mean your battery is going bad if you see a number less than EPA! That's just how it works, it accounts for differences in temp/weather/speed/driving style to display a personalized range estimate. Everybody's car displays something different.

Best to just ignore the range figure and focus on the % instead. You're like topic 150 on the range meter...

Also if you don't know, try to keep the battery below 90% for daily use per the Owner's manual.
It took me a long time to trust the % not the mileage. I'm getting about 295 as long as other conditions don't affect the mileage.
 


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Sinclair63

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you will get *about* 3 miles per kWhr.... a little less on highway, a little more in stop an go around town. a little less driving over 75mph for extended distance. a little less going uphill, a little more going downhill. less when temp<50F, best at 70F...

are you getting the picture why the range estimate 'GuessOMeter' is always changing estimated range ?

'safe' estimate is 'around 3 miles/kWhr'

try to never go below 10%, and don't worry about charging to 100%.... although you will get the longest life out of the battery keeping it between 20%-80% most of the time, and slow (Level 2) charging rather than DCFC fast charging when possible (which heats up batteries and can speed formation of dendrites internally)
Thanks. I really appreciate all the info everyone has provided. It's helping understand the range and how much external conditions and driving attitudes effect range estimates.
I get between 302 and 308 miles on temperatures 80+ on my GT
Thanks!
Just upgraded to a Juicebox 40amp charger and plan to put some real miles on the MME GT. Can't say I'm going to get anything close to 302. Hard to control my lead foot.
 

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Problem is a terrific reduction in range due to attempting to get ahead of tailgaters
How and why does one 'get ahead of tailgaters'? Are you talking about outrunning people tailgating you?
 

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First 100% charge showed 284 but on starting dropped immediately to 274... Second 100% achieved 274 mi. range and dropped as advertised - not too bad. Problem is a terrific reduction in range due to attempting to get ahead of tailgaters - which is impossible without becoming one myself. Apparently in reading here, charging to 100% is not advised? The memory of lithium batteries was a concern but this experience is with model aircraft lithium ion batteries - probably not applicable to this car? Questions, questions... New experience here.
ā€œGet ahead of tailgaters?ā€ Keep out of the left lane except to pass. The closer they follow the more following distance you need in front of you so that you do not have an emergency where are you need to stop to quickly. You essentially need to build in a reaction time for them so that you can light up your tail lights without applying your brakes so that they can start to back off before you stop and they hit you. If they are tailgating excessively and you are at or above the speed limit and you are not on an interstate there is no minimum speed limit, slow down like a farm tractor with hazards to let them pass. Note many Schneider National Company owned trucks are (or were as of 2011 and earlier) governed at 62 mph other companies have speed governors set between 65-70. In icy conditions especially in Texas where there are no salt trucks and locals do not know how to drive on ice. I have stopped several extra car lengths away from other accidents and traffic jams. When the driver in an all-wheel-drive Jaguar behind me, failed to slow down in time, they nearly hit me however, I had plenty of room to scoot up to avoid them rear ending me. You have to drive for the short sighted ignorant angry drivers. Most people drive as if they are not even thinking one or more moves ahead in a game of chess, they don’t value their car, your car, their life or your life. Be smart I’ve never heard the term ā€œGet a head of tailgaters,ā€ you want them in front of you. Besides, I always like being second or third fastest on the road. Let those tailgaters be the bait for police officers waiting in speed traps.
 

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ā€œGet ahead of tailgaters?ā€ Keep out of the left lane except to pass. The closer they follow the more following distance you need in front of you so that you do not have an emergency where are you need to stop to quickly. You essentially need to build in a reaction time for them so that you can light up your tail lights without applying your brakes so that they can start to back off before you stop and they hit you. If they are tailgating excessively and you are at or above the speed limit and you are not on an interstate there is no minimum speed limit, slow down like a farm tractor with hazards to let them pass. Note many Schneider National Company owned trucks are (or were as of 2011 and earlier) governed at 62 mph other companies have speed governors set between 65-70. In icy conditions especially in Texas where there are no salt trucks and locals do not know how to drive on ice. I have stopped several extra car lengths away from other accidents and traffic jams. When the driver in an all-wheel-drive Jaguar behind me, failed to slow down in time, they nearly hit me however, I had plenty of room to scoot up to avoid them rear ending me. You have to drive for the short sighted ignorant angry drivers. Most people drive as if they are not even thinking one or more moves ahead in a game of chess, they don’t value their car, your car, their life or your life. Be smart I’ve never heard the term ā€œGet a head of tailgaters,ā€ you want them in front of you. Besides, I always like being second or third fastest on the road. Let those tailgaters be the bait for police officers waiting in speed traps.
Definitely agree that if you are in the left lane blocking faster traffic that is behind you, you are the problem. Move over and let them pass. You are an active road hazzard if you refuse to move to the right.
 

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Just took delivery of my 2023 GT (non perf) a few weeks ago, but came from 2 years driving a Tesla Model Y LR.

35k miles in the Tesla taught me battery percentage is far more meaningful than anything else. Looking at the miles projection is the equivalent of looking at the "miles to empty" on an ICE vehicle, instead of just looking at the fuel gauge.

That said, I did a full charge to 100% to give me a baseline for future reference on battery degradation. At 100% my estimated miles were 308 and my Energy to Empty (according to CarScanner) was 91.31 kWh. The non displayed SOC was 96% when the displayed SOC was at 100%, representing the buffer at the top and bottom end.

From here on I'll always charge between 80-90%. If I'm going on a long road trip, I'll try to time it so I hit 100% charge within an hour of departing.

Using a ton of data from driving the Tesla, and applying battery performance, a good judge for me is:

Get your baseline miles per kWh at 70-80 degrees for whichever type driving you're doing (highway vs around town)

At 90 degrees and above deduct 10% from that miles per kWh.

At 40 degrees deduct 30%

Headwinds, weather and elevation will affect those numbers as well.
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