When I charge to 100% I think it’s actually charging the full battery pack to 100%, not just my 88 kWh useable battery.

[JoeDimwit]

So, yesterday I did an update while charging at work. I have that charging location set to 95% for the winter, but it charged all the way to 100%. I think this was due to the update, but for the purpose of this discussion it really doesn’t matter. When I looked at my driving data, it said I used 13 kWh to go 33.4 miles, which makes sense. BUTTTTT, when I look at the GOM and battery indicator, it reads 91% full, which means there is still a tiny bit over 80 kWh left, which means I only used about 8 kWh of the measurable pack.

All of this leads me to believe the buffer at the top end of the battery is 5 kWh, and that when charging to 100% it charges past the measurable pack limit.

Has anyone else noticed anything like this?

 

[RickMachE]

Regen

 

[JoeDimwit]

Regen

Except that the battery indicator displayed 100% for 14 miles (yes, I watched it). Also, normally, when it is cold, my car displays a drop of about 16% over the course of my drive home from work.

 

[Polar]

No. It’s not.

When the MachE equivalent of LeafSpy is finally released (it may already be out, I don’t keep up on the battery monitoring tweaks anymore) we’ll be able to tell far more but until then we’re relying of software that was pretty much programmed to tell us only a portion of the truth.

 

[Nklem]

The battery percentage is not real. It is a calculation. I found with a scan tool, 100% was actually 94% (in my case recently). It all depends on temperature and charge state. You cannot calculate or assume anything on displayed battery % other than 0 is more than likely zero. Here is a quick scan showing displayed vs "real" battery state of charge... For a long time I tried to calculate efficiency from Battery Percentage and you cannot, you will be 8-12% off.

This was a 100% battery at -1F start for a several hundred mile road trip a few weeks back. You cannot even trust the EA charge invoices. I got 62 kWh and only paid for 58 kWh.

This scanner software is invaluable to me it opened my eyes to the real workings of EV tech. You can believe the mi/kWh (Edit: On the Dash, not the App). It is pretty well spot on.

 

[veronicablack]

I think it's been pretty accurate for me lately, but I remember in the past that the driving history on my FP app would vaaaastly overstate my energy efficiency. I'd be seeing numbers like 5 mi/kwh in the middle of cold winter nights without any departure times. So I don't know how much I'd trust the data given there.

That said, bravo to the Ford app people. This latest version of the app seems to be (knock on wood) working really well for me lately.

 

[JoeDimwit]

The battery percentage is not real. It is a calculation. I found with a scan tool, 100% was actually 94% (in my case recently). It all depends on temperature and charge state. You cannot calculate or assume anything on displayed battery % other than 0 is more than likely zero. Here is a quick scan showing displayed vs "real" battery state of charge... For a long time I tried to calculate efficiency from Battery Percentage and you cannot, you will be 8-12% off.

This was a 100% battery at -1F start for a several hundred mile road trip a few weeks back. You cannot even trust the EA charge invoices. I got 62 kWh and only paid for 58 kWh.

This scanner software is invaluable to me it opened my eyes to the real workings of EV tech. You can believe the mi/kWh. It is pretty well spot on.

Have you read all of this thread, and looked at the pictures I posted? Because saying I can trust the m/kWh but not the battery percentage makes absolutely no sense when you start doing math.

If you would like to make your argument, please show your work so I can follow it.

 

[JoeDimwit]

No. It’s not.

When the MachE equivalent of LeafSpy is finally released (it may already be out, I don’t keep up on the battery monitoring tweaks anymore) we’ll be able to tell far more but until then we’re relying of software that was pretty much programmed to tell us only a portion of the truth.

But, in this case, all the numbers work out to be within rounding errors. Until someone can show me mathematically where these numbers are wrong, I am inclined to believe them. They are all in line with what I have observed over the course of 11 months and 24,000 miles.

 

[Cm12]

You definitely cannot trust the miles per kWh. Here’s a sample screenshot from FordPass - I have plenty of others - that shows obviously totally wrong data. What’s even more interesting is that I’ll get a totally different reading from the screen in the car. It is usually more accurate but oftentimes still way wrong, reading like 0.7 miles per kWh. Doing manual calculations of actual driving is the only even remotely reliable method right now (at least for my car, a 2021 premium job 2).

 

[RickMachE]

You definitely cannot trust the miles per kWh. Here’s a sample screenshot from FordPass - I have plenty of others - that shows obviously totally wrong data. What’s even more interesting is that I’ll get a totally different reading from the screen in the car. It is usually more accurate but oftentimes still way wrong, reading like 0.7 miles per kWh. Doing manual calculations of actual driving is the only even remotely reliable method right now (at least for my car, a 2021 premium job 2).

I've believe that the miles per kWh screen on the trip you're making, i.e. on the screen in the car, is fairly accurate. You cannot trust any of the FordPass trip summaries though.

 

[JoeDimwit]

@Cm12
Ok, now go do the calculations on the 2 pictures I posted in the original post. Those are both after the same drive, which started with a state of charge of 100%, on an awd er at 34° f.

 

[Nklem]

You definitely cannot trust the miles per kWh. Here’s a sample screenshot from FordPass - I have plenty of others - that shows obviously totally wrong data. What’s even more interesting is that I’ll get a totally different reading from the screen in the car. It is usually more accurate but oftentimes still way wrong, reading like 0.7 miles per kWh. Doing manual calculations of actual driving is the only even remotely reliable method right now (at least for my car, a 2021 premium job 2).

Sorry DO NOT TRUST THE FORDPASS mi/KWH. That is garbage. Sorry, the "car trips" on the big screen reporting for average Mi/KWH is what I was referring too. I have found that very accurate, if not lower than the real. Sorry I should have been more clear. Thanks for calling me out! I would hate for anyone to think that is anywhere near realistic. I think it's for entertainment value only, although it should be accurate.

 

[will]

so of the data available under EV trips in Fordpass, is any of it reliable to calculate miles per kWh?

I'm asking because I have a siri shortcut that takes the 'efficiency' at face value.... based on a few spot checks of the data in the miles / energy used.

 

[Kevin P]

I have noticed that if I (accidentally, usually) charge my GT to 100%, it takes 10+ miles before it drops to 99%. And even after a ~110 mile long round-trip that I do frequently that would normally drop battery charge from say 90 to 46% (44% drop), it indicated 100 to 67% (only 33% drop). Its weird.

 

[Mach1E]

Have you read all of this thread, and looked at the pictures I posted? Because saying I can trust the m/kWh but not the battery percentage makes absolutely no sense when you start doing math.

If you would like to make your argument, please show your work so I can follow it.

No need for the math. People have used scan tools to verify.

You are definitely NOT charging past 88 or 91 kWh (depending on your model year).

In fact, they have verified that “100%” on your dash is most of the time NOT “100%.”

For example if it’s cold out, you charge to 100% and it’s not 88 KWh, it’s less, even though it shows 100% on the dash.

We, and you, cannot use the pictures you posted to do math because those gauges aren’t precise.

Think of it like the “full” gauge in a gas vehicle. It stays full for quite a while after you drive, but is it really full? Or you can also put another half gallon in if you try.

Sponsored