Where's my range Ford?

[jamelski]

You got the standard battery and your complaining l, funny thanks. Made me laugh like will smith slapping Chris rock laughing ??

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[Mach1E]

2.7 at 70 mph in warm weather seems….. exactly what it should be.

Drive 55 mph and you’ll be happier.

Or try 85 mph and you’ll see a huge difference.

BEVs are kinda opposite of ICE when it comes to highway efficiency. We are less efficient at highway speeds. Gearing makes them more efficient.

 

[timbop]

I just want to know how to get to this elusive 247 number

Interesting! This is the first useful response I've gotten thank you.

1. The threads I mentioned discuss how the efficiency changes by 30% or more depending on weather, AND the fact that the EPA rating is a test value.
2. I also explained the 2 battery pids, and how the accessible buffer IS 70kwh which is what you saw
3. sorry I wasted your time with nonsense

 

[Crazypostman]

1. The threads I mentioned discuss how the efficiency changes by 30% or more depending on weather, AND the fact that the EPA rating is a test value.
2. I also explained the 2 battery pids, and how the accessible buffer IS 70kwh which is what you saw
3. sorry I wasted your time with nonsense

Since those three kilowatt hours are below zero that should not be considered in the usable range because who is going to drive around with an OBD reader to know where exactly zero is supposed to be for real. So on the display from 100% to 0% is about 67 Kwh

 

[devmach-e]

Since those three kilowatt hours are below zero that should not be considered in the usable range because who is going to drive around with an OBD reader to know where exactly zero is supposed to be for real. So on the display from 100% to 0% is about 67 Kwh

No, you have access to ~70 kWh of the battery. The battery has a raw capacity of ~76 kWh. You get access to the portion between ~3 kWh and ~73 kWh. You aren't being cheated out of anything. The GOM shows the usable capacity, not the raw capacity.

 

[Crazypostman]

No, you have access to ~70 kWh of the battery. The battery has a raw capacity of ~76 kWh. You get access to the portion between ~3 kWh and ~73 kWh. You aren't being cheated out of anything. The GOM shows the usable capacity, not the raw capacity.

I've never had access to anything above 69.5kWh according to the scan tool. I'll keep watching and see if that changes.

 

[ripperAZ]

"Every time I thought I was out they brought me back in"

Sincerely,

M. Corleone ........and anyone who knows what a GOM is .....

 

[SnBGC]

But when I got to zero it still showed 3kwh was left over. So that would mean I only had access to 66 instead of 70?

Because around half way the graph lines cross and your displayed SOC is less than actual.

 

[kltye]

The battery capacity reported by the OBD isn't 100% accurate, because estimating battery SoC is very, very hard. Pack voltage is only a rough proxy, since other factor such as internal resistance/pack age, current draw, temperature, etc need to be taken into account. The only way to accurate figure out how much energy is left in a pack is by counting coulombs, and the BMS doesn't do that. No one is cheating you of anything; not everyone in life is out to get you.

Just sick and tired of people pretending to be smart and catching Ford in a "GOTCHA" moment.

 

[EELinneman]

I didn't try that. I got that message and I thought it was the end. I guess I'll go do circles in the parking lot and see how far I can go after I get that message maybe I'll find those missing kilowatt hours lol I don't think they should be hidden below zero though that's not fair to say 70 usable if it says 0 miles remaining on the dashboard.

So you're saying there is two bottom buffers. There's a bottom buffer below zero that's usable and then there's the battery protection buffer also beyond that. That makes sense... I just want to know how to get to this elusive 247 number I thought the Ford EPA numbers were pretty accurate? Tesla's were always inflated but I thought Ford was closer than this on the previous model year. I expected to get closer to 247 that's what I'm disappointed in I don't really care where they hide their buffers I just wish I could get closer to 247 without having to go below zero and pray.

Why would you do this? It's not good for the battery. I guess it's your money, so go for it. Let us know what the long-term effects are of doing what you are told not to do.

 

[Mach1E]

I've never had access to anything above 69.5kWh according to the scan tool. I'll keep watching and see if that changes.

You’re looking for an exact number while using an imperfect measuring stick and measuring something that’s constantly changing.

Filling a battery is NOT like filling a gas tank (where you can measure exact volume of gas).

And even with a gas tank, did you know gas changes volume considerably with temperature changes?

 

[Crazypostman]

Why would you do this? It's not good for the battery. I guess it's your money, so go for it. Let us know what the long-term effects are of doing what you are told not to do.

I've just been doing a ton of testing for my YouTube channel... I'm not going to have the car very long I have another electric truck on order. It doesn't harm the battery as long as you don't leave it at the extremes. If you charge it all the way up use it immediately, if you drain it all the way down charge it immediately it's fine.

 

[Crazypostman]

You’re looking for an exact number while using an imperfect measuring stick and measuring something that’s constantly changing.

Filling a battery is NOT like filling a gas tank (where you can measure exact volume of gas).

And even with a gas tank, did you know gas changes volume considerably with temperature changes?

I understand, less worried about a few kilowatt hours I'm more worried about not getting closer to the 247 mile number I'm pretty far off in the 180s and 190s. 247 would be around 3.3 miles per kwh and I seem to only be able to get 2.7 on average. I think I drive average I don't think I push it hard. Next few days I'll go out of my way to drive like a grandma and see if I can get closer.

 

[SnBGC]

Your scan tool might be using lookup tables for the 68 kWh models. See if there is an updated version for the 70 kWh usable vehicles. That might be causing some confusion. That "energy" value is calculated based on other real and inferred measurements. So the table would need to be updated for the newer vehicles in order to trust the values displayed.

Is your scanner able to show you the actual sensor readings ( vs the conversions)?

 

[Crazypostman]

Your scan tool might be using lookup tables for the 68 kWh models. See if there is an updated version for the 70 kWh usable vehicles. That might be causing some confusion. That "energy" value is calculated based on other real and inferred measurements. So the table would need to be updated for the newer vehicles in order to trust the values displayed.

Is your scanner able to show you the actual sensor readings ( vs the conversions)?

It's the car scanner app on Android. It shows so much stuff basically anything you could imagine you would need to look up. If you give me a specific value to look for I'll try to see if I can find it.

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