Can't deal with the bouncy ride anymore after two weeks with the Mach-E. What do I do?

[Schmetsky]

Here is the quote I saw from @markboris

I waited two days before posting this as I wanted to drive the car quite a bit to make sure I am confident on the way the ride has changed.

In an effort to lower my car a bit, since the lowering springs I ordered were taking longer than I expected, I ordered GT springs for my Premium 4x. As I have stated before in another thread, both the GT and GT/PE springs are the same. I wanted a 1" drop but had to settle for the 1/2" drop the GT springs provide. I replaced the front springs last week and stated I noticed a very little difference in ride. The front was slightly firmer when going over speed bumps in the parking lots but not much else different. Two days ago I replaced the rear springs and I was blown away. There is no more bounce over the roads that previously gave me quite a bit. It feels like a completely different car. It is very smooth and handles better too.

Early on in this thread I said I thought the issue with the bounce might be the rear shocks. To me, all of the bounce comes from the rear. I figured the shocks were not firm enough and caused the springs to bounce around. Well, apparently by adding the higher rate GT springs in the rear fixes the bounce. I checked on the shocks for the rear and they are different from my Premium 4x to the standard GT (non magneride) so changing those might even make it better, however, I won't be going any further with this car since I already have it sold when my GT/PE comes in probably sometime November. If I get bored waiting for my car, I might just order the GT rear shocks to see what else will change.

For those that are very unhappy with the rear bounce of their Mach-E I would highly suggest replacing the rear springs if you don't mind spending a little money. The part number is LK9Z-5560-B and they are around $57 each at parts places like TascaParts, etc. I put them in myself and there are just two bolts that need to be removed. The lower shock and lower control arm bolts and the spring comes right out. Getting the lower control arm lined up to put the bolt back in can be a little tricky but not impossible. I'm sure it can't cost that much to have a shop do this as it took me less than one hour to do both sides. For those that are unhappy with the ride of their Mach-E, I'm confident that if you replace your springs with the GT's springs you will enjoy your car much more.

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[Tscates1]

I've noticed when it hits about 10 degrees F that the harmonic bounce is almost gone...

 

[Quadzilla]

I just got a CA Rte 1 AWD and can confirm it is very bouncy over bad roads, which we have plenty in Phoenix, however. I find it very tolerable over most other roads. IMO, if an aftermarket company came out with progressive springs, they would probably solve most of the issue over bad roads.

 

[coolshades]

I just got a CA Rte 1 AWD and can confirm it is very bouncy over bad roads, which we have plenty in Phoenix, however. I find it very tolerable over most other roads. IMO, if an aftermarket company came out with progressive springs, they would probably solve most of the issue over bad roads.

Steeda claim they are working on something but there have been no updates

 

[mkhuffman]

Steeda claim they are working on something but there have been no updates

It needs to be a combination of springs and shocks/struts, I think. Changing one of them could cause worse problems. My car does much better when overloaded for a long trip. So I think the current suspension setup assumes a heavier vehicle.

Does anyone know if the SR RWD car has a different suspension from the Premium LR AWD? Maybe if I put that on my GT it will ride smoother. Although I don't want a higher ride height.

 

[Cnote]

It needs to be a combination of springs and shocks/struts, I think. Changing one of them could cause worse problems. My car does much better when overloaded for a long trip. So I think the current suspension setup assumes a heavier vehicle.

Does anyone know if the SR RWD car has a different suspension from the Premium LR AWD? Maybe if I put that on my GT it will ride smoother. Although I don't want a higher ride height.

The part numbers for std rwd springs are different I believe so maybe a difference in at least the springs. I have one and swapped to GT springs in the rear and it didn't really help much but another poster on this thread had more luck doing so with his premium ext.

 

[mkhuffman]

The part numbers for std rwd springs are different I believe so maybe a difference in at least the springs. I have one and swapped to GT springs in the rear and it didn't really help much but another poster on this thread had more luck doing so with his premium ext.

That was Mark, and he put GT springs in his Premium. He said it drove like a GT, which of course makes sense. I have the GT and my wife complains about the bounce when we hit bumps.

I was thinking about going the other way and putting the weakest springs in the heavier car. I assume there are different springs in the lighter cars but have not confirmed.

 

[Mach1E]

That was Mark, and he put GT springs in his Premium. He said it drove like a GT, which of course makes sense. I have the GT and my wife complains about the bounce when we hit bumps.

I was thinking about going the other way and putting the weakest springs in the heavier car. I assume there are different springs in the lighter cars but have not confirmed.

You could try it but I bet it makes it worse (think back seat of the school bus).

I still think shocks are the problem and the solution. That’s why the GTPE is the only model without this problem.

 

[Scooby24]

You could try it but I bet it makes it worse (think back seat of the school bus).

I still think shocks are the problem and the solution. That’s why the GTPE is the only model without this problem.

It's 100% the dampers. Any of us that have had adjustable coil overs will tell you bounce is mitigated with damping. Less damping = Bounce. More damping = Harsh.

 

[mkhuffman]

You could try it but I bet it makes it worse (think back seat of the school bus).

I still think shocks are the problem and the solution. That’s why the GTPE is the only model without this problem.

You could be right. Obviously putting MagneRide shocks in my GT is not a viable option so I am holding out hope there is something else we can do.

I agree slowing down the rebound after hitting a bump would make things better, which suggests a shock with higher damping. Or a weaker spring that does not spring back as quickly. I am a novice in this area so really just guessing.

 

[coolshades]

if it makes y'all feel better ....

i have been lurking for a while in the Model Y Driving Dynamics forum in the Tesla Motors Club group and boy, those folks are an argumentative lot wrt to ride comfort!

over here we are mostly unanimous that the MME ride is bouncy, but those folks ... it's amusing

 

[scubadev]

Took delivery of our base GT on 3/7 and like many of you am worried if I made a giant mistake purchasing this vehicle. This car has made me hyper-aware of where every single seam in the concrete is.

Looks like I'll be following this thread for an aftermarket solution.

In the meantime, what front & rear PSI is everyone running to smooth out the ride? Ours is at 41/42 which is a few above recommended (thanks dealer!). I saw someone post that they're running 32 in the front, which seems dangerously low.

I also see some folks trying out an after-market sway bar. Does that help smooth out the daily driving or strictly for racing?

 

[mkhuffman]

I saw someone post that they're running 32 in the front, which seems dangerously low.

I also see some folks trying out an after-market sway bar. Does that help smooth out the daily driving or strictly for racing?

That's me, and I don't agree it is dangerous. In reality I measure 32 psi cold with my hand guage but the car says it is 33-34 psi. Not sure which is most accurate. I will say it is much smoother and I don't notice any rear harshness with the rear tires at 40 psi.

The sway bar had been reported to do nothing for the bounce, as expected.

 

[scubadev]

That's me, and I don't agree it is dangerous. In reality I measure 32 psi cold with my hand guage but the car says it is 33-34 psi. Not sure which is most accurate. I will say it is much smoother and I don't notice any rear harshness with the rear tires at 40 psi.

The sway bar had been reported to do nothing for the bounce, as expected.

Thanks and thank you for not taking offense to my comment. What I meant to say is "I'm a dumbass when it comes to what a tire's PSI should be, but that seems really low"

 

[mkhuffman]

Thanks and thank you for not taking offense to my comment. What I meant to say is "I'm a dumbass when it comes to what a tire's PSI should be, but that seems really low"

No worries. I have had others question the safety of lower pressure, but these are XL tires and rated a good bit higher than the weight of the MME. I don't think 32 psi is too low, but that is Mike's opinion. And Mike is always right. ? 51 psi is the maximum pressure allowed, per the tire, and 39 psi is the MME recommended psi for my GT.

Pirelli says:
" If your tires are inflated to a pressure that is below the recommended PSI (as shown in the manual or on the driver’s side doorjamb), your car will not operate safely. Under-inflation can cause the tire to heat up excessively, which can make the tread pull away from the body of the tire. If this happens on the highway, it could lead to a blowout and a serious accident. There are also financial reasons for making sure your tires aren’t under-inflated. A low tire has more rolling resistance, which means the car has to work harder to move down the highway and consumes more fuel. Well-inflated tires are going to save you money at the pumps. Low tires also wear more quickly and unevenly, so you will have to replace them more often. "

Continental says:
" Many accidents are caused by underinflated tires. If you’re not doing it already, it’s time to start checking your tires every month. You’ll be saving money, and you could save lives. And you’ll save on fuel: if the tires are underinflated, the vehicle will consume more fuel per mile traveled, and thus achieve lower mileage. If tires are under- or overinflated, handling is affected. Handling becomes sluggish if the tires are underinflated, and dangerous if they’re overinflated, especially if you’re cornering at high speed. Stopping distance, braking grip and directional stability are all affected. As your tires struggle to stay on the road, heat builds up, making blowouts more likely and increasing the chances of a serious accident. "

Goodyear says:
" Goodyear recommends that tires be inflated to the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations as found on the Vehicle Tire Information Door Placard or the Vehicle's owner’s manual. The placard can be located on the door edge, doorpost, glove box, or fuel door. The recommended PSI should not be confused with the maximum cold inflation pressure that the tire is rated to hold, which is found on the sidewall. Maintaining proper tire inflation pressure is the single most important things you can do to promote tire durability and prolong tread life.

• Underinflated tires are the leading cause of tire failure and may result in severe cracking or component separation.
• Tire over-inflation increases stiffness, which may deteriorate ride and generate unwanted vibration.
• Underinflation increases treadwear on the outer edges, and generates excessive heat, which can age tires faster
• Fuel economy is reduced as rolling resistance increases — soft tires make your vehicle work harder"

Mike says:
"The recommend pressure in my XL tires is 39 psi. 32 psi is not severely low (compared with 39 psi), and not what the tire companies are referring to when they state the dangers of severely under-inflated tires. 15 psi is severely low, IMO, not 32 psi. So while rolling resistance is definitely higher, I do not think 32 psi is unsafe. I would not go lower than 32 psi, because I do think lower than 32 psi starts to get into danger territory."

Be like Mike if you want a smoother ride.

BTW - some people have put SL tires on their MMEs. I think that is much less safe than running XL tires at 32 psi. I would not put SL tires on my car.

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