Steeda Front Sway Bar! It is awesome. Transforms the car into what it should be.

tannerk89

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Ok, got the car on the lift, removed the wheels and found both ends of the front sway bar have an equal amount of rubbing. Not just the paint is off, but the ends are no longer a rounded edge but flat in the middle. I never heard any noises (my audio system is usually up kind of loud) or felt anything unusual. While I do have over 1000 miles on this front sway bar, I doubt I made more than a couple of U-Turns and hardly ever turn my steering wheel to full lock either way but I guess I had more times than I thought. As a side note, I had the U-brackets slid all the way forward when I mounted the bar so that should have given it the maximum amount of space between the ends of the bar and the tie rods but I guess it wasn't enough.

Got my DeWALT cordless angle grinder out and lopped off the ends of the bar with it in place. I took off the last hole (total of 7/8") which I'd never use anyway. Actually I'll never use the center hole either however if I wanted to remove it there, I'd have to take off the end link and didn't feel it was necessary to take off that much of the bar. It took about 3 minutes for each side which wasn't enough time to heat up the bar much at all so leaving the end link attached didn't cause any issues with it. I filed it down a bit so there are no sharp edges and painted with the same Rust-Oleum hammered black paint I used on the bars and end links before I installed them.

Left side:
View attachment 80600

Right side:
View attachment 80601

After grinding off and filing edges:
View attachment 80602

Painted hammerd black:
View attachment 80603
Dang, I was hoping the clearance from being forward was enough. Now I’ll have to jack it up again and bust out my angle grinder. Appreciate the heads up though, Mark!
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markboris

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Dang, I was hoping the clearance from being forward was enough. Now I’ll have to jack it up again and bust out my angle grinder. Appreciate the heads up though, Mark!
I didn't really expect to see any issues since I never heard or felt anything plus had the bracket/bar mounted all the way forward. I was kind of surprised but I know one thing, it isn't going to happen anymore. I hope Steeda is following this thread. Now that we have several of us having rubbing issues, they need to make a version 2 without that last hole. Doubt anyone would ever use it plus even in their instructions is suggests the middle hole to start with I believe.
 
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My wife is going to think I am crazy taking a grinder to my car.
 

tannerk89

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My wife is going to think I am crazy taking a grinder to my car.
Wouldn’t be the first time my wife caught me taking a grinder to my car ? It was a weekly occurrence for a while when I was “restoring” a very rusty xTerra off roader build I did a few years ago.
 

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How will shortening the end links impact performance? I was really careful to adjust the end links to the exact measurement specified by Steeda. So if you shorten them, what does that do?

I am a suspension novice.
Typically, and I welcome anyone else's feedback, but the sway bar end links should be adjusted so that when you set the car back down, the sway bar is level to the ground and vehicle belly.
 


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Here is what I received as a response from Steeda when I asked about installation of the front sway bar and the issue of “rubbing” that a number of you reported

“we have had no reported fitment issues on non-GT cars.”

i sent them a picture (tonight) of the rubbing or scraping that several of who had posted and mentioned it has been occurring on Premiums, GT’s and GTPE’s

will await their response and report back
 

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Yeah,
Ok, got the car on the lift, removed the wheels and found both ends of the front sway bar have an equal amount of rubbing. Not just the paint is off, but the ends are no longer a rounded edge but flat in the middle. I never heard any noises (my audio system is usually up kind of loud) or felt anything unusual. While I do have over 1000 miles on this front sway bar, I doubt I made more than a couple of U-Turns and hardly ever turn my steering wheel to full lock either way but I guess I had more times than I thought. As a side note, I had the U-brackets slid all the way forward when I mounted the bar so that should have given it the maximum amount of space between the ends of the bar and the tie rods but I guess it wasn't enough.

Got my DeWALT cordless angle grinder out and lopped off the ends of the bar with it in place. I took off the last hole (total of 7/8") which I'd never use anyway. Actually I'll never use the center hole either however if I wanted to remove it there, I'd have to take off the end link and didn't feel it was necessary to take off that much of the bar. It took about 1 minutes for each side which wasn't enough time to heat up the bar much at all so leaving the end link attached didn't cause any issues with it. I filed it down a bit so there are no sharp edges and painted with the same Rust-Oleum hammered black paint I used on the bars and end links before I installed them.

Left side:
View attachment 80600

Right side:
View attachment 80601

After grinding off and filing edges:
View attachment 80602

Painted hammerd black:
View attachment 80603
Clearly an interference issue with the design. I don't think anyone is going to use the soft hole anyway after going to the trouble of installing it. So they should eliminate it and just go with two holes.
 

MyLittlePony2022

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Here is what I received as a response from Steeda when I asked about installation of the front sway bar and the issue of “rubbing” that a number of you reported

“we have had no reported fitment issues on non-GT cars.”

i sent them a picture (tonight) of the rubbing or scraping that several of who had posted and mentioned it has been occurring on Premiums, GT’s and GTPE’s

will await their response and report back
I also sent a note to Tim at Steeda to ask if they were going to modify the bar.
 

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The amount of contact I have now is minimal. It would only take about one minute per side to grind off what I still need to remove, but I’m probably going to do what @markboris did and just lop off that last hole, maybe just lop off the last two and only have the stiffest hole. Still need to decide. ??
 

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The amount of contact I have now is minimal. It would only take about one minute per side to grind off what I still need to remove, but I’m probably going to do what @markboris did and just lop off that last hole, maybe just lop off the last two and only have the stiffest hole. Still need to decide. ??
I'm going to proactively lop off the last hole prior to installation. I'd like to reserve the possibility of using the medium setting, just in case, but see no downside in getting rid of the soft setting... Install is this weekend on a lift in Sonora. ?
 

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It might be helpful if those people that have had issues, report to Steeda and send pictures. Or maybe their installation is more precise?

I have never done an install like that so I wouldn’t have a clue.

this is from Rod at Steeda

”My installation team says that none of the Mach E's that we have installed this bar on have reported any issues like this.
They are going to look into this today and I'll get back to you tomorrow.”
 

markboris

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It might be helpful if those people that have had issues, report to Steeda and send pictures. Or maybe their installation is more precise?

I have never done an install like that so I wouldn’t have a clue.

this is from Rod at Steeda

”My installation team says that none of the Mach E's that we have installed this bar on have reported any issues like this.
They are going to look into this today and I'll get back to you tomorrow.”
Hi Ken, Steeda has quite a few employees and departments. I've talked to them many times over the years regarding their parts and install. I have been very happy with everything I have purchased from them. Since you are talking to someone in particular (Rod? Tim?) why don't you ask them who we should be contacting or emailing with these rubbing issues. That way, all of us on here will message the same person and they won't get lost in the shuffle. I have no problem sending them photos or even the post here on this thread that has my description of the problem and my photos. I know Steve, Mike and others have had the same issue. Installing a sway bar is not rocket science. You really cannot screw it up. I've installed maybe 25 bars in my life, maybe more and this one is no different. I know Steve has probably done the same.
 

HuntingPudel

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Hi Ken, Steeda has quite a few employees and departments. I've talked to them many times over the years regarding their parts and install. I have been very happy with everything I have purchased from them. Since you are talking to someone in particular (Rod? Tim?) why don't you ask them who we should be contacting or emailing with these rubbing issues. That way, all of us on here will message the same person and they won't get lost in the shuffle. I have no problem sending them photos or even the post here on this thread that has my description of the problem and my photos. I know Steve, Mike and others have had the same issue. Installing a sway bar is not rocket science. You really cannot screw it up. I've installed maybe 25 bars in my life, maybe more and this one is no different. I know Steve has probably done the same.
LOL I have bent and heat-treated my own bars in the past for weird stuff (like a 1.25” front bar/1” rear on a 1st gen Celica). Not a lot of issues with interference on those either. ??
 

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I agree with @markboris about a coordinated effort of talking with Steeda. I was simply emailing Tim to determine if they were going to make any modifications to their sway bars as a result of this issue. I am about ready to hit the purchase button but would hold off if a modified version was coming out. Tim indicated that no modification will be done to the future sway bars but the instructions will be updated to say something like: "The end links need to be clocked differently than stock to allow for proper clearance." I have not researched the installation and I personally cannot comment on this as a proper solution.
 

markboris

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I agree with @markboris about a coordinated effort of talking with Steeda. I was simply emailing Tim to determine if they were going to make any modifications to their sway bars as a result of this issue. I am about ready to hit the purchase button but would hold off if a modified version was coming out. Tim indicated that no modification will be done to the future sway bars but the instructions will be updated to say something like: "The end links need to be clocked differently than stock to allow for proper clearance." I have not researched the installation and I personally cannot comment on this as a proper solution.
I highly doubt they are going to modify the bar. If anything they might come out with a U-bracket that you can mount the bar slightly more forward or possibly lengthening the end links might allow it to miss the tie rod. I have not looked into that yet but am about in a little bit. I would buy them and deal with what needs to be done later. I know after cutting off that last hole, I won't have any issues.
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