Syanora all. Been 2 years of fun, ⚡️Lightning⚡️beckons!

[Teslaeata]

Similar boat here, the Pirellis got shredded and I’ve never even been to a track or xcross. I’m at <6k. I’d love to know what replacements you’re considering, I can’t wait for the Hankook Ion EV (summer) to hit racks.

Have a look at the MME wheel alignment specs attached, front camber can be up to -2deg.

Those tyres look like there’s some tracking/tow issues going on, see the feathering on the edges of the treads and maybe some symptoms of tyre pressure (underinflation) problems.

The one down to the cord is VERY dangerous and should be condemned, it’s a licence loser and a life loser!

Always worth having full alignment check carried out fairly regularly to maintain even tyre wear, good handling & range.

Just did my own, other attachment, and all seems nice and true, didn’t do caster & king pin angle or put it on the turn plates because wheelbase, tracking, camber & thrust angles were all good all around so with no issues with steering handling very unlikely caster, KPI & tow out on turns could be out.

Those angles aren’t adjustable in any case, unlike front & rear toe & camber which are adjustable.

Tyres found to be standing up to wear well, in approx 13,780 miles fronts barely worn at all, rears 30%worn, all wearing evenly as I’d expect from those wheel alignment results.

Just switched the unidirectional Michelin Cross Climate 2 tyres front to back on each side and we’re good to go for some more Stang action.

There has been some forum talk about methods of jacking up front & rear and where to put stands, the same aluminium rail used on the jacking point which runs the length of sills can be used to place the stands under, photo illustrates, it’s really strong enough.

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[dtbaker61]

My GT tires have over 30k on them now and they still have decent tread remaining. I am very surprised considering how I drive.

I barely got 19k miles out of the factory michelins.... was right down to the wear bar.

 

[dtbaker61]

There has been some forum talk about methods of jacking up front & rear and where to put stands, the same aluminium rail used on the jacking point which runs the length of sills can be used to place the stands under, photo illustrates, it’s really strong enough.

the (outboard) rail suggested for lifting is NOT aluminum, it is steel.

The aluminum rail is 'inboard' of where you are (correctly) lifting.... many people are tempted to lift there because it is lower.... but it is NOT what you want to use for lifting or jackstands.

 

[MassMachEV-er]

After laying down 50,000 miles in 2 years.. a sweetheart deal on a Lariat Lightning appeared so we traded off the twin turbo Flex monster for the Beast Lightning. Pays to have good contacts at a dealer as the preordered truck appeared and original orderer bailed. I was the 1st on the salesman’s speed dial the same week the $10K discount appeared. If the original order had left 2 special order items off it would’ve qualified for another discount!

The Mach E’s shoes were worn and with summer gone in about 2 months it needs new skins for the S.O.‘s safety. Maybe 10K barely left, and wear is from a couple 35-40 mph corners taken daily at… 50-55+ ????. Tire pics for your pleasure.

One other odd thing. Battery health now shows 94%. Go figure. Gained .65% sitting in our garage for a week ?!

I’ll maybe checkin every now and then but Lightning ? ?? wind ? beckons!

50,000 miles at 42 psi. Rotated every 10K which is not enough! 5-7K better.

My husband owns a Lightning and we use ours to power our RV. We love it as much as the MME! I’m the sporty one… he’s the practical one!!! Enjoy!

 

[Teslaeata]

the (outboard) rail suggested for lifting is NOT aluminum, it is steel.

The aluminum rail is 'inboard' of where you are (correctly) lifting.... many people are tempted to lift there because it is lower.... but it is NOT what you want to use for lifting or jackstands.

You sounded so sure I went out to have another look.

The magnet says it’s not steel.

The coating depth gauge says it’s non-ferrous, NFe like when testing bonnet & front wings, with around 25 microns of paint.

It feels like aluminium.

It sounds like aluminium.

Could it still be steel?

 

[Teslaeata]

I barely got 19k miles out of the factory michelins.... was right down to the wear bar.

I thought Miches were soft and wear quick but these are behaving fairly well.

I’m at 63,000 miles now and 6 of those dodgy Conty summer tyres later which Ford inexplicably fit from new lasted c48,000 miles.

The Miches are all weather which I tend to use stick to the road like Stangy’s on rails!

I run ‘em at 37psi front & 49psi rear because I’m nearly always fully loaded with tools and I’m generally happy with ‘em.

 

[dtbaker61]

You sounded so sure I went out to have another look.

The magnet says it’s not steel.

The coating depth gauge says it’s non-ferrous, NFe like when testing bonnet & front wings, with around 25 microns of paint.

It feels like aluminium.

It sounds like aluminium.

Could it still be steel?

Battery tray rails are AL, which is why they should not be used for lifting or jackstands.

I believe the designated 'lift points' on the rockers are steel, but with a high boron content... Not all steel is magnetic. i.e. many types of stainless steel for example. Boron has some interesting mechanical properties.... There is some very detailed info here:

https://www.repairerdrivennews.com/...n-steel-includes-aluminum-composite-closures/

 

[Teslaeata]

I believe the designated 'lift points' on the rockers are steel, but with a high boron content..

No, I’m sure you’ll find that the lift point is part of the battery frame, not part of the steel body shell, so is aluminium.

The row of bolts you see along under the length of each side of floor between the wheels are those which are undone to facilitate dropping the battery & it’s aluminium frame out from under the car.

See attached picture of how the securing bolts tear into the aluminium of the battery frame which form the jacking points.

 

[dtbaker61]

No, I’m sure you’ll find that the lift point is part of the battery frame, not part of the steel body shell, so is aluminium.

The row of bolts you see along under the length of each side of floor between the wheels are those which are undone to facilitate dropping the battery & it’s aluminium frame out from under the car.

See attached picture of how the securing bolts tear into the aluminium of the battery frame which form the jacking points.

I don't really care what the material is..... or why it is not magnetic.

I just know that lifting and jackstands MUST use that 'outer' frame, and NOT use the very tempting battery tray rail. The battery rail should not be used for lifting or jackstands, and the holes in the battery rail should DEFINITELY not be used for towing or tie-down to a tow truck.

 

[Teslaeata]

the (outboard) rail suggested for lifting is NOT aluminum, it is steel.

??‍

Cared enough to argue initially, though, and to emphasise & shout out the “NOT”.

Forums, eh?

 

[dtbaker61]

??‍

Cared enough to argue initially, though, and to emphasise & shout out the “NOT”.

Forums, eh?

geez.... I just care enough to make sure nobody tried to lift by the battery rail, which IS aluminum, and will collapse.

How about if you take a moment to read thru this:

https://www.repairerdrivennews.com/...n-steel-includes-aluminum-composite-closures/

and tell me what you think is backing up the lift points. It looks to me like it is 'boron' steel, which would be paramagnetic... or the little sections of 'advanced or Ultra high steel', which I don't even know what they are using but it could explain not being magnetic and still be 'steel', and NOT be Aluminum.

 

[Teslaeata]

geez.... I just care enough to make sure nobody tried to lift by the battery rail, which IS aluminum, and will collapse.

How about if you take a moment to read thru this:

https://www.repairerdrivennews.com/...n-steel-includes-aluminum-composite-closures/

and tell me what you think is backing up the lift points. It looks to me like it is 'boron' steel, which would be paramagnetic... or the little sections of 'advanced or Ultra high steel', which I don't even know what they are using but it could explain not being magnetic and still be 'steel', and NOT be Aluminum.

Apologies, meant to thank you for the link you already sent me which I did read and found very interesting though is broadly similar to the materials and methods which many car maker’s employ in their manufacturing processes.

What the aluminium battery frame mounts to, though, does not affect the fact, not just my belief, that the flat aluminium part of the jacking point is made of aluminium.

It is an integral part of the battery frame.

If you bob your head under the side of the floor you’ll see it’s form & shape and see it’s part of the battery carrying frame though it does mount by bolts to the advanced high steel sill/rocker above it which, in turn, is connected by welding to the boron steel centre pillar.

But the place I referred to where the Jack is placed is made from aluminium, not steel, the same as the more prominent square box section is which also forms part of the same battery frame but should not be used for jacking.

 

[mkhuffman]

@dtbaker61 and @Teslaeata, this might be helpful.

https://www.repairerdrivennews.com/...n-steel-includes-aluminum-composite-closures/

 

[dtbaker61]

@dtbaker61 and @Teslaeata, this might be helpful.

https://www.repairerdrivennews.com/...n-steel-includes-aluminum-composite-closures/

I included that link several posts ago. I'm not sure why teslaretta is continuing the argument with me about the fascia material at the lift points. My only concern is that people do not try and lift or use a jack stand under the battery rail itself as that is most definitely just aluminum and not supported structurally by Steel

 

[Teslaeata]

I included that link several posts ago. I'm not sure why teslaretta is continuing the argument with me about the fascia material at the lift points. My only concern is that people do not try and lift or use a jack stand under the battery rail itself as that is most definitely just aluminum and not supported structurally by Steel

Enough!

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