EQ settings via Forscan

[MrLoganRoss]

I am generally not satisfied with the B&O system in my 23.5 GTPE. It really feels to me like a DSP/EQ issue. Vocals are highlighted at the expense of everything else. Looking at the MME Forscan spreadsheet, it looks like there are 12 EQ options. Does anyone have any experience changing those?

Sponsored

 

[MrLoganRoss]

Hi. It would also be great if someone has tested and knows what the default EQ setting is, as well as which one might be close to a Harmon curve (slight boost to low and low mid with slight roll-off to the very highs)

 

[AliRafiee]

I’ve heard this complaint a few times now. I wonder if some cars have an issue or something.

Mine has a nice, clear, and balanced sound. My volume level is usually at 15. Maybe at a higher volume it goes to shit?

 

[Electric Goat]

wow... 15 is super high. My B & O system sounds great. I usually have mine between 4 and 8

 

[AliRafiee]

wow... 15 is super high. My B & O system sounds great. I usually have mine between 4 and 8

I like my music blasting. ?

 

[markboris]

A couple years ago (almost 3 now) I played around with the EQ settings in FORScan. While some made a difference, others did not. Maybe things have changed since then but I don't know as I haven't messed with them since.

With past vehicles I've completely gutted the OEM audio systems and installed high end components based on interior volume and materials used (cloth/leather seats, speaker placement, etc). The Mach-E is the first vehicle I've barely touched, audio system wise. Not because the B&O system sounds awesome but because I am getting older and not really into complete system revamping anymore.

All the components are mostly crap but they do sound decent. It mainly needed help in two areas. Low end bass and power. I removed the OEM sub and installed a 12" JL Audio sub with a 400W amp. That took care of the bass, then for testing purposes, I added a very small JL Audio amp after the B&O amp just to see if I could wake up those door speakers. The B&O amp has a power output of around 12.5W RMS per channel. The JL amp has 50W RMS per channel. Well, it did the trick for sure. Much more powerful mid-bass and because it only powers the door speakers (dash speakers are powered by the ACM), I can control the balance between the two.

Normally I would never add an amp after an amp like this for sound quality reasons but this was just a test however it sounded so good I've left that little amp in there. Bringing up the volume of the door speakers in relationship to the dash speakers has improved the lower midrange and mid-bass of the system and with the JL sub added to the mix I am happy with it enough that I've left it like this. No, it is nothing like a complete overhaul but just these two added components which cost under $1K really wakes up the system. For those who like it loud (AliRafiee) you would love this setup because you've never heard the system play this loud without distorting. ?

 

[MrLoganRoss]

That is super helpful. Would you ever consider replacing the B&O amp/DSP with a PAC Audio Pro (plus you little amp), or a MoBridge?

 

[AliRafiee]

A couple years ago (almost 3 now) I played around with the EQ settings in FORScan. While some made a difference, others did not. Maybe things have changed since then but I don't know as I haven't messed with them since.

With past vehicles I've completely gutted the OEM audio systems and installed high end components based on interior volume and materials used (cloth/leather seats, speaker placement, etc). The Mach-E is the first vehicle I've barely touched, audio system wise. Not because the B&O system sounds awesome but because I am getting older and not really into complete system revamping anymore.

All the components are mostly crap but they do sound decent. It mainly needed help in two areas. Low end bass and power. I removed the OEM sub and installed a 12" JL Audio sub with a 400W amp. That took care of the bass, then for testing purposes, I added a very small JL Audio amp after the B&O amp just to see if I could wake up those door speakers. The B&O amp has a power output of around 12.5W RMS per channel. The JL amp has 50W RMS per channel. Well, it did the trick for sure. Much more powerful mid-bass and because it only powers the door speakers (dash speakers are powered by the ACM), I can control the balance between the two.

Normally I would never add an amp after an amp like this for sound quality reasons but this was just a test however it sounded so good I've left that little amp in there. Bringing up the volume of the door speakers in relationship to the dash speakers has improved the lower midrange and mid-bass of the system and with the JL sub added to the mix I am happy with it enough that I've left it like this. No, it is nothing like a complete overhaul but just these two added components which cost under $1K really wakes up the system. For those who like it loud (AliRafiee) you would love this setup because you've never heard the system play this loud without distorting. ?

Thanks for the experimentation and write up. I wish I could hear your setup.

That’s the thing, I don’t hear any distortion. It sounds very clear and clean all the way up.
I think that’s really odd that people are having different experiences with same setup.

 

[MrLoganRoss]

I am going to go for replacing the door speakers, and substituting the B&O amp with a PAC Audio + Amp, or a Mo bridge. I am also going to substitute two Clark synthesis transducers for the subwoofer. I believe with class D amps, I should be ok on power without having to run new power through the firewall.

 

[Nym]

This probably should be reposted somewhere else in the forum, and it is counterintuitive but... Try 2, 1 ,1 (treble, mid, bass) as a starting point (then adjust to your taste).

 

[MrLoganRoss]

This probably should be reposted somewhere else in the forum, and it is counterintuitive but... Try 2, 1 ,1 (treble, mid, bass) as a starting point (then adjust to your taste).

Thanks. The specific HW question has been posted elsewhere. The EQ settings we are talking about are the ACM DSP settings accessible via Forscan - not the radio interface adjustments (treble/mid/bass) on the sync screen.

 

[Nym]

I apologize. I was attempting to suggest that before anyone start messing with the as-built settings that you start with the onscreen options. Only a suggestion, but those may help others.

 

[markboris]

That is super helpful. Would you ever consider replacing the B&O amp/DSP with a PAC Audio Pro (plus you little amp), or a MoBridge?

Like I mentioned before, that’s what I’ve done (plus complete speaker replacement with high end separates) in several previous cars/trucks. While that is the much preferred way (replacing the B&) amp with a PAC Audio Pro plus a new amp), I just wanted to add a bit more power to wake the system up and now I’m decently happy with it. Another reason not going all out is I only keep cars 3-4 years and have had this one over two years so don’t want to spend anymore on the audio system.

 

[markboris]

Thanks for the experimentation and write up. I wish I could hear your setup.

That’s the thing, I don’t hear any distortion. It sounds very clear and clean all the way up.
I think that’s really odd that people are having different experiences with same setup.

It would be great if you could hear my slightly modified audio system but Seattle is a bit far. I've been known to drive 4+ hours to meet up with members for one reason or another but 13 hours won't work. ?

 

[AliRafiee]

It would be great if you could hear my slightly modified audio system but Seattle is a bit far. I've been known to drive 4+ hours to meet up with members for one reason or another but 13 hours won't work. ?

I’ll meet you half way. ?

Sponsored