Have Plug-In now... convert to Hardwired?

[Dear_OP]

Hi there,

My home garage currently has a NEMA 6-50 50A socket. Been reading about hardwired is better. I'm wondering for my situation, is it worth converting over or can I safely use the current socket for L2 charging?

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[alexgorod]

can I safely use the current socket for L2 charging?

If it is of good quality and connected properly, definitely yes.

I would ask an electrician to inspect it to be sure that there are no issues with it.

 

[21st Century Pony]

Hi there,

My home garage currently has a NEMA 6-50 50A socket. Been reading about hardwired is better. I'm wondering for my situation, is it worth converting over or can I safely use the current socket for L2 charging?

I would convert. When done to standard, it's always safer.

Remember that this car and other EV cars that will follow in the future, draw current continuously. An electric range, an electric dryer, a welding machine and almost all normal 240V equipment in residential homes and garages in the past would draw 240V intermittently and then stop, and then draw the juice again and then stop... and 240V sockets had been designed for this intermittent load in mind.

Meaning, unless your NEMA 6-50 receptacle (the black bakelite part) and its inner metal connector guts are of above-code quality rather than just the Home Depot builder bin special variety, there is a risk of eventual fire and or stress cracks and / or melting in the immediate receptacle area when under continuous 240V charging load for most of the night.

I mean... it's our homes and we and our families live in them, right? Hard-wiring to standard would eliminate the weakest point in your L2 charging setup.

And hard-wiring often is not that expensive.

 

[AliRafiee]

The only reason I see going hardwired is to use a 48A charger. But that means you have to change your breaker to 60A and probably your power cables.

 

[Mike G]

The only reason I see going hardwired is to use a 48A charger. But that means you have to change your breaker to 60A and probably your power cables.

When my 14-50 was originally installed I opted for the 60A breaker and appropriate wire gauge because I knew I'd eventually go hardwired.

I did a 48A Wallbox Plus install myself about a month ago now and it's been great. 11.1kW charging is a world of difference over a routinely overheating Ford Portable (Webasto) EVSE that maxed out at 7kW at the best of times.

I got the Wallbox Plus as an 'open box' item on Amazon for about $100 off retail. Everything was in the box and unopened (hardware packets, etc)...it's just somebody opened the box so I guess they couldn't sell it as 'new'.

 

[ocdxfv]

If you already have a 6-50 outlet on a 50 amp breaker, and you have an EVSE with a 6-50 plug, there is no compelling reason to hardwire it. Just make sure you're charging at 40 amps or lower. If you're concerned about safety, have an electrician come out and verify that you have a high quality outlet that will handle EV charging.

 

[Dear_OP]

Thanks for your responses. IIRC the fuse in the panel for that socket is 30A or 40A. I think I am gonna stick with what I've got and upgrade if there's a need.
The overheating bit concerns me but yet I see alot of plug-in EVSE sold.

 

[JustBob]

I prefer the heavy duty outlet. If I decide on a new charger I don't need and electrician.

 

[dbsb3233]

Thanks for your responses. IIRC the fuse in the panel for that socket is 30A or 40A. I think I am gonna stick with what I've got and upgrade if there's a need.
The overheating bit concerns me but yet I see alot of plug-in EVSE sold.

If the fuse (breaker, I hope) is only 30A or 40A, you need to be really careful to use an EVSE that's no more than 80% of that.

On a 40A breaker, don't plug in anything that can draw more than 32A. If a 30A breaker, don't plug in anything that can draw more than 24A.

That's the standard rule, to avoid tripping the breaker.

 

[david_quick]

Current code requires a GFCI breaker for an outlet, that is not required for a hardwired installation. I have not seen any reports for the MME but for my Volt the GFCI in the car interfered with the breaker. Most of the time it worked fine but occasionally the breaker would trip and it would take several resets and minutes to get it to work again. Hard wiring it removed the GFCI breaker and solved the problem.

Mind you the garage was new in 22 with new electric service with a dedicated EV charging circuit and meets code as of the most recent inspection last Monday when we added a circuit for heat.

 

[21st Century Pony]

 

[ArthurDOB]

It'll be relatively inexpensive compared to having to run a line to you garage. I'd definitely do it.

 

[Jtbuster]

When my 14-50 was originally installed I opted for the 60A breaker and appropriate wire gauge because I knew I'd eventually go hardwired.

I did a 48A Wallbox Plus install myself about a month ago now and it's been great. 11.1kW charging is a world of difference over a routinely overheating Ford Portable (Webasto) EVSE that maxed out at 7kW at the best of times.

I got the Wallbox Plus as an 'open box' item on Amazon for about $100 off retail. Everything was in the box and unopened (hardware packets, etc)...it's just somebody opened the box so I guess they couldn't sell it as 'new'.

What was the appropriate wire gauge?

 

[Mike G]

What was the appropriate wire gauge?

Pretty sure it was 8 AWG copper. But it could have been 6. I don't remember right now.

Edit:...it probably was 6 AWG since they had it on a 60A breaker.

 

[Mike G]

This might help.

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