Mike G

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Above updates all done. Programming time was 15 minutes exactly.

It all went without any drama. At the end after the last module in the script was updated (sequence was PCM, BECM, SOBDMC, SOBDM) after programming where you expect to be returned back to the main screen there was an unusually long delay, with some sort of error that flashed up at the end after it was all completed. I was returned to the available software screen and decided to run the network test again just to check and see if anything popped in.

Nothing new showed up but a bunch of modules that a second ago had been green were now orange. So I cleared and retested and ended up with everything green except the VDM. So I thought I'd try a tip provided by @Skyman63 and before clearing the DTCs again I cycled the drive modes through all the settings and then left it in unbridle the way I normally drive, and then cleared and retested. It stayed off this time. I don't know if it will stay off now or just come back later. We'll see.

After closing FDRS that error that flashed by became clear by a dialog box informing me that FDRS had run into an unknown error that was going to be reported to the FDRS team. So...I've got that going for me.....which is nice I guess.

No modules were harmed during this event. Car is happy/glad and works fine.

Note for clarification: The VDM DTC problem only affects GT-PE trim level cars as they are the only ones equipped with Magnaride.
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Skyman63

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Above updates all done. Programming time was 15 minutes exactly.

It all went without any drama. At the end after the last module in the script was updated (sequence was PCM, BECM, SOBDMC, SOBDM) after programming where you expect to be returned back to the main screen there was an unusually long delay, with some sort of error that flashed up at the end after it was all completed. I was returned to the available software screen and decided to run the network test again just to check and see if anything popped in.

Nothing new showed up but a bunch of modules that a second ago had been green were now orange. So I cleared and retested and ended up with everything green except the VDM. So I thought I'd try a tip provided by @Skyman63 and before clearing the DTCs again I cycled the drive modes through all the settings and then left it in unbridle the way I normally drive, and then cleared and retested. It stayed off this time. I don't know if it will stay off now or just come back later. We'll see.

After closing FDRS that error that flashed by became clear by a dialog box informing me that FDRS had run into an unknown error that was going to be reported to the FDRS team. So...I've got that going for me.....which is nice I guess.

No modules were harmed during this event. Car is happy/glad and works fine.
I have found I need to cycle through the driving modes just before I turn off the car EVERY time I've turned it on. Also, it seems this has to be done from the engine on setting. So if I do a key on engine off for any reason, I go ahead and engine on, cycle through drive modes, then shut down.

It's not that much effort, and the consensus is the error doesn't affect the magneride performance anyway. But I don't like software errors!!
 

DeusEx

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Curious to know if this happens to non-GT variants of the Mach-E.
 

garyd9

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Thanks for the updates, Mike. I wonder if non-PE GT's have the same powertrain updates. They probably do... (and non-PE GT's also don't have VDs.. er.. VDMs)
 


Mike G

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Thanks for the updates, Mike. I wonder if non-PE GT's have the same powertrain updates. They probably do... (and non-PE GT's also don't have VDs.. er.. VDMs)
All MY MMEs regardless of trim level seem to have these same updates (PCM, BECM, SOBDMC, SOBDM) as of Saturday morning.

Obviously there will be cars that haven't had a powertrain update in a while and in that case they will have updates to the remaining powertrain modules available as well (ABS, and if the car is AWD then the SOBDMB as well).
 

Wizrd54

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I've been able to update all the modules except the IPMA. I know it takes about 2.5 hours, but it's failed 3-4 times now regardless of what I try. My 12V battery is very low by the end of it even with my charger on. I have a GT, so I'm guessing the large current draw is the issue here. My charger can only provide 15A continuously, more for a short burst for starting a normal ICE vehicle.
 
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Mike G

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I've been able to update all the modules except the IPMA. I know it takes about 2.5 hours, but it's failed 3-4 times now regardless of what I try. My 12V battery is very low by the end of it even with my charger on. I have a GT, so I'm guessing the large current draw is the issue here. My charger can only provide 15A continuously, more for a short burst for starting a normal ICE vehicle.
Well you'll need something that can provide 40-50 amps continuously to do an IPMA on a Mach-E or Lightning. An actual power supply. A charger won't cut it.
 

Mike G

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I have used an IOTA DLS-90 before and I think the DLS-75 would be sufficient.

It is a power converter that provides continuous voltage. Just needs some jumper leads,
or there is this one that comes in several load ratings, but I haven't used that one before.

There are options out there other than the spendy PL6100.
 

garyd9

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I, and many others here, have used RV power converters similar to the second link from Mike G. Here's an amazon link of the specific one I've used on my GT: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CKWN25BP

I also got a cheaper set of jumper cables, chopped the clamps off one end, stripped that end and put the stripped ends into the above power supply (in the screw terminals): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R4YU9EM

Whatever cables you get, ensure they are at least 8 gauge. 6 would be better.

Set the power converter to fixed output mode and turn the voltage adjustment pot while using a multimeter to ensure 13.8volts.

(The links provided are from the orders I made, but I'm not endorsing anything. This is clearly a case of using a product outside its intended purpose.)
 

Wizrd54

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I have used an IOTA DLS-90 before and I think the DLS-75 would be sufficient.

It is a power converter that provides continuous voltage. Just needs some jumper leads,
or there is this one that comes in several load ratings, but I haven't used that one before.

There are options out there other than the spendy PL6100.
I hooked jumper cables up to my gas vehicle and let it idle to maintain the battery. That worked fine. I agree a power supply is better, but not worth buying one just for FDRS. I could borrow one from work if I really needed it.

I appreciate the info from everyone, thanks.
 

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Do we know which OTA is causing the 2023s to get locked out? And is something ocuring in the OTA process itself, or the caused by the update software? Wondering if I should grab a license and do all the updates pending in FDRS or just turn off auto updates and hang tight.....
 

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I've been able to update all the modules except the IPMA. I know it takes about 2.5 hours, but it's failed 3-4 times now regardless of what I try. My 12V battery is very low by the end of it even with my charger on. I have a GT, so I'm guessing the large current draw is the issue here. My charger can only provide 15A continuously, more for a short burst for starting a normal ICE vehicle.
What is the error message you see when it fails?
 

garyd9

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Do we know which OTA is causing the 2023s to get locked out? And is something ocuring in the OTA process itself, or the caused by the update software? Wondering if I should grab a license and do all the updates pending in FDRS or just turn off auto updates and hang tight.....
I think the current guess is that it's not the act of a specific module updating that's doing it. It might be the result of some module having already been updated and then some other combination of circumstances that no one has put together yet.

This post by @Mach-Lee is probably the "best guess" at this point:
https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/completely-locked-out-😭.37460/page-6#post-826910
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