Completely locked out 😭

sparkymartin

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After having my 2024 Mustang Mach EX Premium towed to the dealership on Monday for this exact issue, they released the vehicle back to me on Thursday morning after replacing the 12 Volt battery and declaring the issue resolved. I told them about this wider issue and they seemed comfortable that the issue was fixed. The timing was great, because I was planning on taking my first road trip (450 miles) to see my brother's family and my new nephew. So, I took the car straight from the dealership and embarked on my road trip. Now, 2 days later, I am getting alerts in the app that the newly replaced 12 Volt battery is low. What the heck?!?

Timeline:
  • Wednesday, June 26th - 7:00 PM - Bought my brand new car and drove it off the lot.
  • Friday, July 12th - 9:30 AM - Received OTA update
  • Monday, July 15th - 4:00 PM - Completely locked out of car and had car towed to dealership (a 4 hour ordeal that involved a bad experience with Ford Roadside Assistance that wasted 2 hours of my time)
  • Thursday, July 18th - 10:30 AM - Picked up my car that I was told was "fixed" by replacing the 12 Volt battery. Embarked on 450 mile road trip.
  • Friday, July 19th - 9:00 PM - Receiving notices in the FordPass app that my 12 volt battery is low.
Another strange issue is that after my first road trip, my main battery capacity somehow "lost" over 15% capacity. It used to show 240 miles of range on an 80% charge and now it shows just under 200 miles of range on an 80% charge. I did notice that vehicle estimates were wrong during my road trip. It would estimate that I would have a certain amount of range remaining when arriving at my destination or charge points and, in reality, it would be a bit less. For example, the vehicle estimated I would have about 45 miles of range remaining when I hit my first charge point and in reality, I had 10 miles of range remaining. 95% of the driving was level or even downhill with no traffic and I used BlueCruise at the speed limit. The vehicle occupants were just me and my 14 year old son. Is this something to be concerned about? My ultimate destination was considerably hotter than my home area (90 degrees vs 110 degrees).
 

Ziggynz

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Or perhaps go the FDRS route. I manually updated the modules while a power supply was hooked up directly to the car, eliminating any issue with the battery draining during an update. :D

(This is assuming that an OTA is the cause...)
Maybe but not everyone wants to fork out $549 for an adapter.....
 

ReverendPete

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Another strange issue is that after my first road trip, my main battery capacity somehow "lost" over 15% capacity. It used to show 240 miles of range on an 80% charge and now it shows just under 200 miles of range on an 80% charge
This is likely unrelated to your battery/lockout issues. When you first start driving the car, it is learning your driving habits, and using that data to try to make the estimated distance available on the current charge more accurate. (People call that distance estimate the GOM or "Guess-o-meter"). In my experience it did get more accurate over the first month of driving.

How you drive is one of the factors that determines how far you can go on a charge. The more you put your foot down, and the more you drive at highway speeds (or faster ;)), the lower your range will be. Other things can affect your range as well, like climate usage. Heat, seat heater, and steering wheel heaters actually reduce your range more than you might think, and more than A/C does, even. And ambient temperature has a large affect as well. Battery efficiency lowers quite a bit in cold weather (which isn't an issue right now). The GOM does take the ambient temperature into account as well, when it's determining your estimated range.

But in your case, my guess is that your reduced range is just from the car learning your driving habits. You are able to reset it using the SYNC screen, and you would likely see it go back up to where it was when you got the car.
 

Starscrean

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2023 select. Your incident sounds familiar. Also happens to me last week Wednesday. Accessories turn on. I can lock and unlock doors. Car wont start. URL shows I have 30%. Wouldn’t charge with booster back or ICE.. Everytime I push the start button, the battery drops 2%. Now it’s at the dealer with %0
 


LinkRS

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Agreed that this is all just educated speculation and WAGs.

I'm taking from your message that the remote fob talks directly to the BCM module. I wasn't aware of that.

Which module controls electronically opening the frunk? Is that controlled by the BCM or another module? If it's controlled by the BCM then, in theory, the frunk could be opened from a fob IFF an owner had the proper fob programmed.

I don't remember if any owner who experienced this issue tried to unlock the car using the phone app. If so, and if the lights also flashed from that, it would suggest that communication between the TCU (cloud) and GWM (which is on an isolated ethernet wire) was working, and communication between the GWM and BCM was working (not sure which bus is GWM<>BCM.)
When I had this issue, I did try to unlock form the Phone, fob, and the Door Panel. All same results. The locksmith was unable to open the door with a probe either.

With regards to phone, app would spin, and after about 5 mins would say it failed.
 

Frankis843

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I hope I'm able to avoid this issue, sounds awful
 

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I read through all the posts. Yikes

Is disconnecting the 12v and allowing the modules to reset a viable solution to this problem?

For example, can you leave a window down, gain entry, pop the frunk, then disconnect the 12v ?
 

Gimme_my_MME

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I read through all the posts. Yikes

Is disconnecting the 12v and allowing the modules to reset a viable solution to this problem?

For example, can you leave a window down, gain entry, pop the frunk, then disconnect the 12v ?
Yes
 

garyd9

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I read through all the posts. Yikes

Is disconnecting the 12v and allowing the modules to reset a viable solution to this problem?

For example, can you leave a window down, gain entry, pop the frunk, then disconnect the 12v ?
The current GUESS is "yes." However, until someone encounters the problem with a window open, and opens the frunk and disconnects the battery for 15 minutes, we don't know for sure.

(The was a report of something similar solving the issue: in that case, the person caused the 12v battery to complete drain before getting access to it.)
 

JohnFoxeSheets

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This seems difficult to explain, but the 12V battery going dead is not the cause on 2023s. It’s an effect or byproduct of the glitch. Here’s a technical timeline of what I think happens, read carefully:
  1. Owner previously received an OTA with the affected software (likely a GWM OTA).
  2. Car is locked by owner
  3. Random GWM? glitch occurs and shuts down CAN network communications
  4. Owner tries to unlock and open door, but unlock signal cannot be transmitted on the CAN to the door latch modules.
  5. Since door latch modules have not received an unlock signal, they don’t unlock or open.
  6. BCM is still able to execute remote functions on its own hardware that don’t require network communication. This is why the lights flash and horn can honk in response to fob presses, the BCM is responsible for those aspects itself.
  7. Owner tries to jump frunk leads, but the GFM will not open the frunk because the battery voltage is normal and not dead.
  8. Since the owner cannot gain access, the car may be towed to a dealer.
  9. Due to the network communication failure, some modules may not shut down fully and will create a 12V drain.
  10. Also because of the network glitch, the BCM is not able to signal the SOBDMC to wake up the car and recharge the 12V battery. Therefore the 12V battery will slowly drain without being recharged.
  11. Eventually the 12V battery will go COMPLETELY DEAD due to the drain. This may take a day or two from what I’m seeing.
  12. Vehicle may sit an additional day or two on a dealer lot before it can be looked at.
  13. Because the 12V battery was allowed to drain completely dead and was not immediately recharged, it is permanently damaged and will have significant capacity loss due to extensive sulfation.
  14. At some point after the 12V battery has gone completely dead, someone tries the bumper leads again and is able to get the funk open (since the battery is actually dead now).
  15. Dealer suspects a failing 12V battery, tests it, and it fails the test since it was allowed to drain completely dead.
  16. Dealer replaces 12V battery thinking that was the original cause.
  17. Because the 12V power was disconnected, the module that caused the glitch reboots and begins to function normally again. CAN communication is restored.
  18. Car now functions completely normally, dealer tells customer the 12V battery was replaced and they assume that’s what caused it.
  19. ???? Glitch happens again and cycle repeats ???? (hasn’t happened yet, but 12V reset might permanently solve the issue)
*The above is my educated hunch only, nothing has been confirmed from Ford

Again, the 12V battery was collateral damage from the glitch, not really a cause. Performing a 12V reset may prevent the glitch (also a hunch).
Wow, Ford creates a Rube Goldburg machine to kill the 12V battery! ?
Ford Mustang Mach-E Completely locked out 😭 Rube_Goldberg's_%22Self-Operating_Napkin%22_(cropped)
 

spicy_taco

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For those in the know, is Ford even aware of the issue? Do they have any idea what the problem may be?

Owning this car will be even more anxiety inducing until Ford sorts this out.
 

sparkymartin

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For those in the know, is Ford even aware of the issue? Do they have any idea what the problem may be?

Owning this car will be even more anxiety inducing until Ford sorts this out.
Ford seemed to indicate to me that they are aware of the issue and know what the problem and fix is, but they said only the dealership can fix it. I am skeptical that they know anything and may just be offering lip service.
 

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spicy_taco

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Yes, engineers are working on getting the fix out soon as usual.

Here's a workaround until then: Anti-Lockout Solution for 2023s
Thanks @Mach-Lee . I saw your synopsys a while ago. Any further indication as to which update/module is responsible for this? Can this issue surface any time (once a suspect SW revision is on the car), or only after an OTA event?
Sponsored

 
 







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