To re-wire or not to re-wire…

[DVMSteve]

I’ve hesitated a few days to ask this, partly because I’m afraid of the answer, mainly because I hate publicly declaring myself to be a dumb @$$. (Not to mention, this is my first post after lurking and learning a while.)

I didn’t do my homework before wiring my house for a 14-50 outlet for the mobile charger. Made a bad assumption: all my other house stuff (clothes dryer, water heaters, oven, cooktop) that use a 50 amp breaker are wired with 10-3 w/ ground. So that is what I ran, in 1/2” PVC conduit on the outside of my house, attached to the underside of my wrap-around porch, ~40’ to my charging station. Works great! Conduit stays cool!

(Incidentally, last weekend, I installed a FCCS at my office, where I will be charging the vast majority of the time. Only on weekends at the house, when needed. At the office I ran 6/2 w/ ground in 3/4” PVC, w/ a 60 amp breaker. Works greater!)

To re-wire or not to re-wire (at the house), that is the question… And, it’s not really like I’m afraid of the answer. It would not be that horrible to re-do the whole thing.

Thank you in advance, any who care to reply.

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[Coffs]

10/3 is rated at 30 to 40A. So it depends on exactly what cable you installed and what maximum charge rate you want.

 

[phil]

Re-wire. 'Tis nobler in the mind.

 

[DVMSteve]

Well, it is your basic romex 10/3 with ground copper wire, except when did they start putting a pink jacket around it? Always has been orange, at least for the last 40 years. Maybe when the big box stores started locking it up? I’m hoping to get the 32 amp rate of the Ford mobile charger. (And have been, if my math is correct.)

 

[Pioneer74]

10/3 is rated at 30 to 40A. So it depends on exactly what cable you installed and what maximum charge rate you want.

10/3 romex is rated in the 60c column. 30 amps. Derate to 24 amps for continuous load.

 

[Pioneer74]

I’m hoping to get the 32 amp rate of the Ford mobile charger. (And have been, if my math is correct.)

See post above.

 

[MyLittlePony2022]

When in doubt do it the right way. The cost of rewiring is much cheaper than rebuilding your house. ???‍?

 

[DVMSteve]

Uh-oh. Exposing some ignorance here. By “de-rating” to 24 amps, would that mean just changing out the breaker from a 50 to a 30 amp? I can certainly live with that. When charging at home I’ll typically have all night, and don’t need any speed… That would be about $20 and all of 4 minutes.

 

[Tomm]

When I did a 60 amp install, I had to run #6 individual wires in 3/4 metal conduit to meet the stuff I was reading about codes. I had wanted to use pvc and romex but I thought there was an issue with heat generation

As far as your question, either smaller breaker or rewire. I would not push the envelope.

 

[HuntingPudel]

Uh-oh. Exposing some ignorance here. By “de-rating” to 24 amps, would that mean just changing out the breaker from a 50 to a 30 amp? I can certainly live with that. When charging at home I’ll typically have all night, and don’t need any speed… That would be about $20 and all of 4 minutes.

A 30A max circuit will support a continuous load of 24A. You would need an EVSE that is capable of outputting 24A (the Ford Mobile is not, it is 32A only on 240V). ??

 

[RickMachE]

Uh-oh. Exposing some ignorance here. By “de-rating” to 24 amps, would that mean just changing out the breaker from a 50 to a 30 amp? I can certainly live with that. When charging at home I’ll typically have all night, and don’t need any speed… That would be about $20 and all of 4 minutes.

You cannot use the Ford Mobile Charger on a 30amp circuit.

 

[azerik]

Same problem I have with the Ford Mobile charger. If I actually sling 10/3 the 50 ft I need to I have to be able to drop to 24 amps. I have a Tesla Wall connector (hard wire 'big' evse) but would be much better off with a $150 Amazon jobbie that can be turned down to 24amps. I'd almost happily trade the Wallconnector for one. (As it sat under a chair in my garage for ~ 14 months) The Ford Charger is locked at 32amp draw (needing 40amp breaker and correct wiring). My Tesla Charger can be adjusted down but it's kind of a pain. Too much pain for me to want to try to use it as a mobile charger.
Similar to:
https://www.amazon.com/LIFTSUN-Level-Charger-Portable-Adjustable/dp/B0CMC268HD/
But if you are mounting it at the house better to spend that money on bigger wiring. (Just FYi I and other don't trust that charger to last more than a couple years. Quite a few of the Ford chargers Amber light and they're done. I think they're also coming with a shorter warranty as well, 3yr if I remember right.)

 

[Mach-Lee]

I’ve hesitated a few days to ask this, partly because I’m afraid of the answer, mainly because I hate publicly declaring myself to be a dumb @$$. (Not to mention, this is my first post after lurking and learning a while.)

I didn’t do my homework before wiring my house for a 14-50 outlet for the mobile charger. Made a bad assumption: all my other house stuff (clothes dryer, water heaters, oven, cooktop) that use a 50 amp breaker are wired with 10-3 w/ ground. So that is what I ran, in 1/2” PVC conduit on the outside of my house, attached to the underside of my wrap-around porch, ~40’ to my charging station. Works great! Conduit stays cool!

(Incidentally, last weekend, I installed a FCCS at my office, where I will be charging the vast majority of the time. Only on weekends at the house, when needed. At the office I ran 6/2 w/ ground in 3/4” PVC, w/ a 60 amp breaker. Works greater!)

To re-wire or not to re-wire (at the house), that is the question… And, it’s not really like I’m afraid of the answer. It would not be that horrible to re-do the whole thing.

Thank you in advance, any who care to reply.

Well, it is your basic romex 10/3 with ground copper wire, except when did they start putting a pink jacket around it? Always has been orange, at least for the last 40 years. Maybe when the big box stores started locking it up? I’m hoping to get the 32 amp rate of the Ford mobile charger. (And have been, if my math is correct.)

If you ran 10/3 Romex that must be on a 30 amp breaker. The outlet has to be changed to a 14-30 (dryer) outlet, you can't have a 14-50 outlet on that. And you can only charge at 24 amps. Which means you need a dryer outlet EVSE, and can't use the Ford Mobile charger which draws 32 amps.

I'm confused because you said conduit in one post and Romex in the other. You can't put Romex in conduit in a wet location. So if you have Romex in conduit that will need to get ripped out.

I think the proper thing to do if you have the conduit already is to rip out all the Romex and replace it with #8 THHN wire (red, black, white, green conductors), which you can have on a 50A breaker. The green ground can be one size smaller at #10.

You may find this helpful: https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/ev-charger-breaker-wire-size-reference.8367/

Also, I have to ask the question, why the heck is your range and oven wired with 10/3 and on a 50A breaker? That's a fire hazard and should be corrected ASAP. Anything with 10/3 should have a 30A breaker. A range or cooktop should be on either a 40A or 50A breaker with #8 or #6 wire respectively.

Dryer and water heater are typically 30A circuits, make sure those don't have 50A breakers.

 

[Earplug]

Romex in conduit is not allowed.

 

[azerik]

Today I lernt, no romex.

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