Another Unresponsive '23

[AliRafiee]

Could also of just had a keyhole for the trunk that wouldn’t be visible….having to crawl through the trunk is more reasonable than no solution.

Or in the wheelwell.

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[electric-in-the-desert]

@Newtype311 Disconnect the 12v negative terminal for 10 minutes to resolve the issue. No dealership trip required

 

[Newtype311]

Thanks for that tip! I think if I had tried that earlier it would have worked for sure. When I left the house for a bit I think the battery ran out.​

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I did unplug the negative for 10 minutes or so, and when I reconnected it, I definitely heard a lot of activity and my ford app finally updated to say it was in battery saver mode and I needed to drive it to reconnect to the app. but then it seemed like there wasnt enough power to get it going.​

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AAA came out and tested the battery and with their jumper box hooked up, I saw my lights flash on. Got into the driver seat and the screens were powered for the first time. But once I hit the power button my dash screen just started producing random errors, basically every error message possible. The center console screen said it was in battery saver mode and to start or stop the car, but it wouldn't stop and the screens eventually powered off again. Couldn't get anything back on after that.​

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I'll call the dealer in the morning and see what they say​

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[HuntingPudel]

Thanks for that tip! I think if I had tried that earlier it would have worked for sure. When I left the house for a bit I think the battery ran out.​

​

I did unplug the negative for 10 minutes or so, and when I reconnected it, I definitely heard a lot of activity and my ford app finally updated to say it was in battery saver mode and I needed to drive it to reconnect to the app. but then it seemed like there wasnt enough power to get it going.​

​

AAA came out and tested the battery and with their jumper box hooked up, I saw my lights flash on. Got into the driver seat and the screens were powered for the first time. But once I hit the power button my dash screen just started producing random errors, basically every error message possible. The center console screen said it was in battery saver mode and to start or stop the car, but it wouldn't stop and the screens eventually powered off again. Couldn't get anything back on after that.​

​

I'll call the dealer in the morning and see what they say​

​

That cornucopia of errors on the screen is indicative of modules not communicating with each other. This is usually caused by insufficient LV battery voltage. The frunk please in the front bumper won’t work unless the 12v is dead. If there is some voltage, they won’t pop the frunk. There is an unhappy middle area between good voltage and dead where the car’s modules won’t operate properly and the frunk will not open using the emergency leads. This seems to affect 2023 and 2024 models. ??

 

[Mach-Lee]

Thanks for that tip! I think if I had tried that earlier it would have worked for sure. When I left the house for a bit I think the battery ran out.​

​

I did unplug the negative for 10 minutes or so, and when I reconnected it, I definitely heard a lot of activity and my ford app finally updated to say it was in battery saver mode and I needed to drive it to reconnect to the app. but then it seemed like there wasnt enough power to get it going.​

​

AAA came out and tested the battery and with their jumper box hooked up, I saw my lights flash on. Got into the driver seat and the screens were powered for the first time. But once I hit the power button my dash screen just started producing random errors, basically every error message possible. The center console screen said it was in battery saver mode and to start or stop the car, but it wouldn't stop and the screens eventually powered off again. Couldn't get anything back on after that.​

​

I'll call the dealer in the morning and see what they say​

​

You need a jump start from a suitable device. Those little JNC jump boxes AAA caries are not enough. Ask them to hook up jumper cables to the battery in their truck with the engine running, wait 10 minutes to recharge yours, and then attempt a start.

You can also buy a NOCO boost jump starter and use that (use manual override mode, see manual).

If you still are having glitches, disconnect the 12V again for 5+ minutes, reconnect, and immediately jump start while pressing the start button.

 

[Jimmy2]

Dear Ford: We know you are seeing this thread. Its a fear we all have, now come to life. Please fix it.

 

[Jon Boy]

With all of this happening, there should be a class action lawsuit on Ford to provide a mechanical way to open one of the doors when the battery is dead. What if a lifesaving thing is stuck in the car. Or I shut the front door to get my kid out of the backseat and it won’t open anymore.

I have read that the internal door catch is mechanical not electric.
UPDATE... My helpfull comment was a reply to your statement that if someone (your child perhaps) was inside the car when it locked you out. Please read your own blogs first.

 

[zvez]

I have read that the internal door catch is mechanical not electric.

the inner door latch is designed to open mechanically if the battery fails and you're inside the car, you just have to pull the lever fully back and it mechanically opens the door.

 

[CameraCarl]

You need a jump start from a suitable device. Those little JNC jump boxes AAA caries are not enough. Ask them to hook up jumper cables to the battery in their truck with the engine running, wait 10 minutes to recharge yours, and then attempt a start.

You can also buy a NOCO boost jump starter and use that (use manual override mode, see manual).

If you still are having glitches, disconnect the 12V again for 5+ minutes, reconnect, and immediately jump start while pressing the start button.

I see there are several NOCO Boost Jumpers listed on Amazon. Which should we get?

 

[AliRafiee]

I have read that the internal door catch is mechanical not electric.

That doesn’t help when you’re outside of the car.

 

[Mr Breeze]

Unfortunately I don't have an external powersource to connect to the leads atm.

For now I'll have to wait for Ford's roadside assistance and see what they're able to do.

Ok just worried about the 5+ business day lead time at my dealership to look at Mach Es.

With a tesla you can use a 12v duracell they even say a 9v would work. Tape it to your wires in a plastic bag and if you ever need it, its there. Don’t see why it wouldn’t work with an mme

 

[Mr Breeze]

That cornucopia of errors on the screen is indicative of modules not communicating with each other. This is usually caused by insufficient LV battery voltage. The frunk please in the front bumper won’t work unless the 12v is dead. If there is some voltage, they won’t pop the frunk. There is an unhappy middle area between good voltage and dead where the car’s modules won’t operate properly and the frunk will not open using the emergency leads. This seems to affect 2023 and 2024 models. ??

Great I have a 23 with 1600 miles ?

 

[Newtype311]

So it's on its way to the dealer now. The tow truck this morning was able to get me jumped, which I guess was lucky since he couldn't tow it if I couldn't get it in neutral. Maybe there's a way but he didn't know and neither did I.

Even if it's "running" now, I need something to build back a little trust. The last thing I want is to get stuck somewhere in the 100° heat with my son or something.

 

[Jerrytball]

That doesn’t help when you’re outside of the car.

I know the back door doesn’t work, but my string is still attached for the front door and it works.

 

[SonicBlue]

I have a 2021 with 50k miles and I’ve never been bit by this particular problem, but it is one of my two biggest fears about long term ownership. (The other being a total meltdown of a motor or battery out of warranty).

I have gotten the low battery warning a few times, easily rectified by charging overnight. But the LVB management system in this car stinks (or maybe it’s been improved now with a recent OTA update?).

I HATE how hard Ford made it to access the LVB. Buried under plastic panels, and that is IF you can even get the frunk open. It annoys me that Ford did not provide a key or some mechanical means of at least opening the frunk. I guess Ford’s thinking was, if we’ve got the means to jump start the car, then we’ve got the means to jump-pop the frunk. But still.

And I HATE that Ford picked an LVB that is almost impossible to find outside a dealership, if they even have it. The lack of any standardization of LVBs - at least by manufacturer - is mind boggling. It feels like a money grab.

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