"Car Scanner" (OBD software) now supports Mach-E

[klaberte]

I have been using Car Scanner Pro on the Mach E with varying success. One question about the logging: The documentation for Car Scanner Pro states that it will capture, in a log file, both the data shown on screen (e.g. the dashboard items) as well as any data delivered within the same OBD2 packet. So, if you request (these aren't real PIDs) XYZ_power on your dashboard, the log file will include XYZ_power as well as XYZ_Current and XYZ_Voltage, since, in this example, the latter two are delivered in the same requested packet containing XYZ_power.

My question is this: Is there any way to identify which PID packets contain other PIDs "for free"? For example, using the PIDs from the Torque Pro thread, can one determine that values are coming from the same packet?

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[Wildthing]

Ah, that was it! Interestingly, both “HV Current” and “Hybrid/EV Battery System Current” sensors were both set to the role “EV_BatteryCurrent”. I actually had to turn “Hybrid/EV Battery System Current“ role to “None” to prevent it’s -750A value from overriding the correct value.

Now Hybrid/EV Battery System Current still shows the wrong value, but Hybrid/EV Battery System Power shows correct values, and I can use HV Current for current values.

Now my only issue is that for some reason Primary Motor Coil Temp has stopped returning values…

I’m still stuck at -750A or EV current shown in Amps instead of kW. Can’t get back to kW since I’ve done the 21P22 update. Current in amps doesn’t tell me anything and I don’t want to convert it in my head. I just want to see kW data that I had before

 

[phidauex]

I’m still stuck at -750A or EV current shown in Amps instead of kW. Can’t get back to kW since I’ve done the 21P22 update. Current in amps doesn’t tell me anything and I don’t want to convert it in my head. I just want to see kW data that I had before

Do either of the two Current PIDs show reasonable values? This would probably something like 3-5 amps when on but stopped, up to a few hundred amps when driving.
If so, then set the role override for that one sensor to EVBatteryCurrent.

See if that works. If not, add a screenshot of what your two current PIDs are showing.

EDIT: See this post from another thread with more details on what to change. You may have the same issue I had after my updates. https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...isplay-ver-1-87-1-and-later.12627/post-309661

 

[JimmyMachE]

I’m still stuck at -750A or EV current shown in Amps instead of kW. Can’t get back to kW since I’ve done the 21P22 update. Current in amps doesn’t tell me anything and I don’t want to convert it in my head. I just want to see kW data that I had before

I think you should just find this sensor:
Hybrid/EV battery power kW

 

[MTNestr]

With Car Scanner is there an way to see instantaneous Miles per KWH

 

[BillPitman]

More importantly, will it capture software version information?

Where did you see that “ software version”, would be available? Pro version? Bill

 

[Jimrpa]

Where did you see that “ software version”, would be available? Pro version? Bill

I was asking a question.

 

[alexgorod]

With Car Scanner is there an way to see instantaneous Miles per KWH

You probably already found the answer, but it is "EV Instant Energy Consumption"

I found this thread after I posted my question in a new one, but will repeat it here - can it detect when the brake light gets illuminated? There is a "brake light switch", but it only works when the brake pedal is used.

 

[bshaw]

You probably already found the answer, but it is "EV Instant Energy Consumption"

I found this thread after I posted my question in a new one, but will repeat it here - can it detect when the brake light gets illuminated? There is a "brake light switch", but it only works when the brake pedal is used.

I'm interested to hear if anyone knows the answer to this one.

My current assumption is that with 1PD engaged, the brake lights will come on as soon as you reduce any pressure from your foot on the go pedal. Or to say it another way, if Car Scanner is showing energy going back *into* the battery, then I assume my brake lights are on.

 

[alexgorod]

My current assumption is that with 1PD engaged, the brake lights will come on as soon as you reduce any pressure from your foot on the go pedal. Or to say it another way, if Car Scanner is showing energy going back *into* the battery, then I assume my brake lights are on.

The Car Scanner can show the vehicle acceleration, so maybe when it's negative, the lights come on? Or "more negative" than some number... It will be interesting to run some tests if CS doesn't show it directly.

 

[bshaw]

The Car Scanner can show the vehicle acceleration, so maybe when it's negative, the lights come on? Or "more negative" than some number... It will be interesting to run some tests if CS doesn't show it directly.

Depends on how closely they decided to make it work like an ICE car brake lights would. When coasting in an ICE car, there will be a slightly negative acceleration (wind resistance, etc), but of course no brake light until your foot touches the brake pedal.

There may even be federal regulation that EVs have to show brake lights at a certain threshold of negative acceleration.

I always thought it would be useful if there was a brightness threshold based on how much brake was being applied. Like dimmer for slight braking, and much brighter for heavy braking. I see these people around here with the brake lights mod that flash their lights like an emergency vehicle would. I assume those mods are illegal?

 

[alexgorod]

I always thought it would be useful if there was a brightness threshold based on how much brake was being applied

My thought was to increase the length of the lights with heavier braking.

Either way, a person behind you needs to understand what's going on, so it's pretty much hopeless.

 

[alexgorod]

The first results of using the car scanner are somewhat interesting - it shows 33.78 kWh with 53.5% of my standard battery, which I believe is about 70 kWh, but the calculation gives only 63. Is it that inaccurate, or the battery in my car is actually sub-standard??

 

[Tbird]

You could charge to 100% and see what the energy reading is. That would give you two different calcs to compare

 

[Mach-Lee]

The first results of using the car scanner are somewhat interesting - it shows 33.78 kWh with 53.5% of my standard battery, which I believe is about 70 kWh, but the calculation gives only 63. Is it that inaccurate, or the battery in my car is actually sub-standard??

You would need to check with the battery temp at 25ºC and after a full charge. It should be close to 68 kWh then.

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