Clay bar recommendations

[RMoore]

Any recommendations for purchasing clay bars on line? I picked up the chemical guys yellow one along with their lubrication spray and used it gently when I first got my MME. I also used it on my other cars and I suspect I could have used a slightly more aggressive clay for those. I notice on Amazon that there are less expensive versions, but was wondering about quality control so was wondering what others have used successfully.

Is there a consistent code or system that manufacturers adhere to in terms of color and aggressiveness?

If I keep my MME fairly clean, would I really need to apply the clay bar all that much in the future?

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[joebruin77]

Any recommendations for purchasing clay bars on line? I picked up the chemical guys yellow one along with their lubrication spray and used it gently when I first got my MME. I also used it on my other cars and I suspect I could have used a slightly more aggressive clay for those. I notice on Amazon that there are less expensive versions, but was wondering about quality control so was wondering what others have used successfully.

Is there a consistent code or system that manufacturers adhere to in terms of color and aggressiveness?

If I keep my MME fairly clean, would I really need to apply the clay bar all that much in the future?

I personally like using clay mitts instead of clay bars. I have used the Nanoskin fine clay mitt (see below). But most major car care manufacturers, such as Griots Garage and Adam's Polishes, offer them. The also offer medium grade clay mitts if you need more contaminant removal.

When you drop a clay bar on the ground, you basically have to throw it away. If you drop a clay mitt on the ground, you can wash it off and keep using it.

You only want to clay when it is necessary (when there are actual contaminants on the paint). I usually clay maybe once every 6 months, right before I apply a wax or sealant. When you use a clay bar, you are removing a very tiny amount of clearcoat. So you definitely do not want to clay more often than you need to. Even if you use a lot of lubricant, claying almost always causes micro marring. So some people only clay if they have the time to polish the paint right after you are done. This is another reason not to clay too frequently.

You can tell you need to clay by putting your hand in a plastic baggie (like a produce bag) and run your fingers with the bag over them across your paint. If it feels smooth, you do not need to clay. If you feel bumps, then you do need to clay.

https://www.autogeek.net/nanoskin-autoscrub-wash-mitt-fine-grade.html

and here is a helpful article that discusses clay mitts vs clay bars:

https://www.lenosgarage.com/blogs/auto-detailing/clay-bar-vs-clay-mitt

 

[RMoore]

Thanks Joe, very helpful as usual! I confess that after I gently went over my MME with the clay bar I did not polish. One reason might be that I don’t really know how to polish. I’ve seen videos of detailers using what looks like a random orbit sander—is that the polishing step? Do you need that tool or is it done by hand as well?

 

[slimothyjames]

Just a heads up - try to avoid the Chemical Guys' products. They are pretty over hyped. Good example is if you look at the safety sheets for their quick detailers, you can see it is 90% water, meanwhile Meguirs' quick detailer lists "40-70% *Trade secret"

I'm a fan of the Meguirs' clay bar kits - comes with a fair bit and is well priced.

Thanks Joe, very helpful as usual! I confess that after I gently went over my MME with the clay bar I did not polish. One reason might be that I don’t really know how to polish. I’ve seen videos of detailers using what looks like a random orbit sander—is that the polishing step? Do you need that tool or is it done by hand as well?

Also you don't have to polish, as it's a pretty new car. Polishing compound is usually for paint correction (swirl marks/light scratches/paint oxidation). After you clay bar you can just apply wax or sealant to your car. I've only really needed to do polishes on my black car.

 

[joebruin77]

Just a heads up - try to avoid the Chemical Guys' products. They are pretty over hyped. Good example is if you look at the safety sheets for their quick detailers, you can see it is 90% water, meanwhile Meguirs' quick detailer lists "40-70% *Trade secret"

I'm a fan of the Meguirs' clay bar kits - comes with a fair bit and is well priced.

Also you don't have to polish, as it's a pretty new car. Polishing compound is usually for paint correction (swirl marks/light scratches/paint oxidation). After you clay bar you can just apply wax or sealant to your car. I've only really needed to do polishes on my black car.

I agree with you that Chemical Guys focuses on slick marketing and hyping up their products. And I have found that some of their products underperform. For example, the Chemical Guys Jet Seal sealant really disappointed me. But they do have a few products that work really well. For example, I actually really like their VRP tire dressing as well as their Butter Wet Wax.

And I totally agree with you about Meguiars products. Their traditional clay bar kits are great.

You definitely do not need to use a heavy compound on a new car. But a light polish may be needed, even on a new car, for example before applying a ceramic coating.

But my larger point is that using a clay bar on your car's paint, even with a lot of clay lube, often does induce light marring. Some professional detailers will only clay a car if they have time to do at least a light polishing afterwards. But it is also true some people choose to skip the light polishing after claying the paint.

 

[joebruin77]

Thanks Joe, very helpful as usual! I confess that after I gently went over my MME with the clay bar I did not polish. One reason might be that I don’t really know how to polish. I’ve seen videos of detailers using what looks like a random orbit sander—is that the polishing step? Do you need that tool or is it done by hand as well?

You can polish by hand. But it is best to polish using a Dual Action polisher (aka a DA polisher). Unless you are a professional or a skilled detailer, you want to avoid using a Rotary Buffer, as those can burn through paint. If you use a machine polish, it will be easier on your hands and arms, you will get better results, and you will use less product.

But if polishing is needed, a light polishing by hand is better than no polishing at all.

There are lots of helpful videos on Youtube about the basics of polishing such as:

 

[RMoore]

Just a heads up - try to avoid the Chemical Guys' products. They are pretty over hyped. Good example is if you look at the safety sheets for their quick detailers, you can see it is 90% water, meanwhile Meguirs' quick detailer lists "40-70% *Trade secret"

I'm a fan of the Meguirs' clay bar kits - comes with a fair bit and is well priced.

Also you don't have to polish, as it's a pretty new car. Polishing compound is usually for paint correction (swirl marks/light scratches/paint oxidation). After you clay bar you can just apply wax or sealant to your car. I've only really needed to do polishes on my black car.

Thanks will check out the Meguiar’s clay bar. I do have their quick detailer mist and like it.

 

[kindofblue]

I've used a clay bar on our cars q. 6 mo just before treating them with a paint sealant (usually a Maguiar's product). In my experience it really makes the glassy smooth finish last.

 

[RMoore]

I personally like using clay mitts instead of clay bars. I have used the Nanoskin fine clay mitt (see below). But most major car care manufacturers, such as Griots Garage and Adam's Polishes, offer them. The also offer medium grade clay mitts if you need more contaminant removal.

When you drop a clay bar on the ground, you basically have to throw it away. If you drop a clay mitt on the ground, you can wash it off and keep using it.

You only want to clay when it is necessary (when there are actual contaminants on the paint). I usually clay maybe once every 6 months, right before I apply a wax or sealant. When you use a clay bar, you are removing a very tiny amount of clearcoat. So you definitely do not want to clay more often than you need to. Even if you use a lot of lubricant, claying almost always causes micro marring. So some people only clay if they have the time to polish the paint right after you are done. This is another reason not to clay too frequently.

You can tell you need to clay by putting your hand in a plastic baggie (like a produce bag) and run your fingers with the bag over them across your paint. If it feels smooth, you do not need to clay. If you feel bumps, then you do need to clay.

https://www.autogeek.net/nanoskin-autoscrub-wash-mitt-fine-grade.html

and here is a helpful article that discusses clay mitts vs clay bars:

https://www.lenosgarage.com/blogs/auto-detailing/clay-bar-vs-clay-mitt

The clay mitt approach sounds interesting. Are there particular ones you like?

 

[joebruin77]

The clay mitt approach sounds interesting. Are there particular ones you like?

I like the Nanoskin clay mitt:

https://www.nanoskinusa.com/products/autoscrub-wash-mitt-fine-grade

and also the one from Griot's Garage (I'm a big Griot's Garage fan in general):

https://www.griotsgarage.com/fine-s...UassWtPG1xHhqxrUj7C7gZR6pEQHGSEMaAvYbEALw_wcB

Finally, here is one from the Rag Company:

https://theragcompany.com/collections/clay-bars-and-towels/products/the-rag-company-ultra-clay-mitt

Hope that helps,
Joe

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