I’m sure you’re dead right.I think you’ll be good with a 32mm
Just checked our 2023 Premium AWD ER - both rear axel bolts were loose (guessing 50-90 ft lbs) -- tightened to 150 ft lbs). The fronts were fine.--reposted from another thread for visibility - mods please delete if not allowed--
Fellow accel-clunk-decel-clunk sufferer here.
One more data point for all the Mach E Lovers out there (and to the haters and the emotionally ambiguous please enjoy this post as you are able):
My car is a '24 premium AWD extended range.
Over the last couple weeks, my clunk sound has been getting louder and after driving with the windows down and ac off I've been becoming more sure it was coming from the left rear wheel area. So, I popped off the wheel last night to check the axle nut.
The nut was NOT obviously loose but I figured the only way to be sure it's tight is to remove and retorque. Plus - I wanted to blue thread-locker it since technically, you're not supposed to reuse that nut and retorquing will most likely result in future loosening without the thread locker.
I did not expect it to be so hard to get off.
I think it took about 100 ft lbs to get it started coming off. Then the whole way off it was really fighting me. Probably took 70 or 80 ft lbs to remove - the whole way off. Is that due to being torque to yield?
In any case, it didn't look loose and took a lot of force to get it started coming off. But removing and retorquing to 150 ft lbs 100% solved my clunk. Not able to reproduce it at all after many miles of testing.
Thoughts: Should I have the dealer replace it with a new one since technically, you're not supposed
From pics I've seen going around, the replacement nuts people are getting come with thread locker on them. I suppose that's Ford's fix for the issue. If you end up revisiting the axle nuts, I'd add some blue thread locker or use the updated part that has thread locker applied.Just checked our 2023 Premium AWD ER - both rear axel bolts were loose (guessing 50-90 ft lbs) -- tightened to 150 ft lbs). The fronts were fine.
Rears are easy with the parking break, I didn't take them off, only tightened them and the clicking noise is gone).
Takes a few min per side (wheel off, tighten, wheel on).
thanks!
Derek.
But the right tools it’s about five or 10 minutes per side.I got my back. Leif Johnson got it fixed in less than 2 days. If you are in Austin, give me a go.
They looked at several things then decided it was the "retainer nut". CCPZ*3B477*G
I had them to some other things as well. They noticed some random recall about the antenna and did that as well.But the right tools it’s about five or 10 minutes per side.
Found a longer note.I got my back. Leif Johnson got it fixed in less than 2 days. If you are in Austin, give them a go.
They looked at several things then decided it was the "retainer nut". CCPZ*3B477*G
Time for the bullshit button againFound a longer note.
It says they identified the problem by attaching "chassis ears". right rear half shaft nut was found to be loose by more than 1 full turn. They replaced the nut with a new one.
I did not know they had ears they could attach![]()
I believe this is a device that answers the question "Where is that sound coming from?" I could see such a device being VERY useful in cases like this.Found a longer note.
It says they identified the problem by attaching "chassis ears". right rear half shaft nut was found to be loose by more than 1 full turn. They replaced the nut with a new one.
I did not know they had ears they could attach![]()
not sure what you mean by this... but they did solve the problem and I don't know why they would lie about this kind of thing.Time for the bullshit button again
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Chassis ears, no, stop itnot sure what you mean by this... but they did solve the problem and I don't know why they would lie about this kind of thing.