Cold weather behavior

[buddy3210]

Based on last winter I had decided we'd drive an ICE vehicle when the temp dips below -20F, also had high hopes with one of the OTA updates this summer I believe that mentioned something to the effect that it was improving the heating system. Last night at a relatively balmy -2F had a meeting in town and couldn't get the car started as soon as I wanted after the meeting so only had maybe 5 min of warm up. Settings are high auto, steering wheel and passenger seat high, no driver seat heat as the low setting is too hot for me. Temp set to 75. It was not a comfortable drive, I doubt the cabin temp made it to 60F. Today another meeting -2F again but cloudy so a little better, not where I would like it and I have plenty of insulation so it isn't that I like it hot. Over half of the way I changed to floor and center vents on the climate control and bumped up the fan some, started to get quite comfortable. Then since I was getting down to 20% battery the usual warning to reduce climate whatever to conserve battery, then about 3 miles from the charger and meeting I get a red warning saying something like "performance severely limited due to cold battery", with a turtle also, and I maybe could do 60 for a short bit and then probably only 40 for the last little bit. I think it got down to 17% SOC. After charging and the meeting the trip home was quite comfortable, or course it was a scorching 7F so that makes a difference. Please tell me what I'm doing wrong. When on auto does it heat the battery as needed and takes away from the cabin? I think a bigger heater surely would have been justified. I have really enjoyed this car, but this is a weak area.

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[Mach-Lee]

What you might be doing wrong:

• Not keeping the vehicle plugged in all the time while parked. It must stay plugged in to keep the battery warm like a block heater.
• Not setting a departure time before leaving. You need to set a departure time in those temps before trips. This requires you to be plugged in.
• If using remote start, not giving it enough time to warm up. In cold conditions it can take up to 20 minutes of remote start to warm up the cabin. Warming up while parked is also more efficient than trying to do it while driving. So wait for it to finish.
• Not charging enough. Winter uses more energy, so you should charge to 90% or more before leaving on a trip.
• Not using AUTO climate control. AUTO knows best and will manage the heat for optimal efficiency and performance. You shouldn't be manually selecting vents or blower speeds. You can waste a lot of heat that way. The only thing you should manually select is defrost if necessary, put it back to AUTO once clear.
• Using too high of a climate setting. I use 68ºF, you should use something similar. 75ºF is going to waste too much energy.
• Potentially driving too fast. Try to drive about 70 MPH or less to save energy.
• Not planning for reduced range in the winter. In the winter you might only be able to drive 125 miles on a charge.
• Not using en-route preconditioning to chargers. Use the Ford Nav to navigate to the charger so the battery is warmer upon arrival.

I think the main factor is you didn't keep the battery warm. The battery will steal the heat away from the cabin if it gets too cold so you won't have any heat. So you must warm it up as much as possible before leaving. If you park the car outside in the winter without plugging in, the battery cools off rapidly. Then when you drive the vehicle, it will use all of the heater trying to warm it back up so you end up with no heat until the battery is warmed up again.

The battery steals the heat to prevent it from severely power limiting and shutting down. In your situation, it wasn't able to keep itself warm enough so you saw the turtle light come on.

The battery will only heat while plugged in. So again, try to park somewhere where you can plug into a level 2 charger.

I've done a lot of testing in cold temps last winter: https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/mach-lees-mach-e-cold-weather-testing-taking-requests.24393/

 

[buddy3210]

What you might be doing wrong:

• Not keeping the vehicle plugged in all the time while parked. It must stay plugged in to keep the battery warm like a block heater.
• Not setting a departure time before leaving. You need to set a departure time in those temps before trips. This requires you to be plugged in.
• If using remote start, not giving it enough time to warm up. In cold conditions it can take up to 20 minutes of remote start to warm up the cabin. Warming up while parked is also more efficient than trying to do it while driving. So wait for it to finish.
• Not charging enough. Winter uses more energy, so you should charge to 90% or more before leaving on a trip.
• Not using AUTO climate control. AUTO knows best and will manage the heat for optimal efficiency and performance. You shouldn't be manually selecting vents or blower speeds. You can waste a lot of heat that way. The only thing you should manually select is defrost if necessary, put it back to AUTO once clear.
• Using too high of a climate setting. I use 68ºF, you should use something similar. 75ºF is going to waste too much energy.
• Potentially driving too fast. Try to drive about 70 MPH or less to save energy.
• Not planning for reduced range in the winter. In the winter you might only be able to drive 125 miles on a charge.
• Not using en-route preconditioning to chargers. Use the Ford Nav to navigate to the charger so the battery is warmer upon arrival.

I think the main factor is you didn't keep the battery warm. The battery will steal the heat away from the cabin if it gets too cold so you won't have any heat. So you must warm it up as much as possible before leaving. If you park the car outside in the winter without plugging in, the battery cools off rapidly. Then when you drive the vehicle, it will use all of the heater trying to warm it back up so you end up with no heat until the battery is warmed up again.

The battery steals the heat to prevent it from severely power limiting and shutting down. In your situation, it wasn't able to keep itself warm enough so you saw the turtle light come on.

The battery will only heat while plugged in. So again, try to park somewhere where you can plug into a level 2 charger.

I've done a lot of testing in cold temps last winter: https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/mach-lees-mach-e-cold-weather-testing-taking-requests.24393/

What you might be doing wrong:

• Not keeping the vehicle plugged in all the time while parked. It must stay plugged in to keep the battery warm like a block heater.
• Not setting a departure time before leaving. You need to set a departure time in those temps before trips. This requires you to be plugged in.
• If using remote start, not giving it enough time to warm up. In cold conditions it can take up to 20 minutes of remote start to warm up the cabin. Warming up while parked is also more efficient than trying to do it while driving. So wait for it to finish.
• Not charging enough. Winter uses more energy, so you should charge to 90% or more before leaving on a trip.
• Not using AUTO climate control. AUTO knows best and will manage the heat for optimal efficiency and performance. You shouldn't be manually selecting vents or blower speeds. You can waste a lot of heat that way. The only thing you should manually select is defrost if necessary, put it back to AUTO once clear.
• Using too high of a climate setting. I use 68ºF, you should use something similar. 75ºF is going to waste too much energy.
• Potentially driving too fast. Try to drive about 70 MPH or less to save energy.
• Not planning for reduced range in the winter. In the winter you might only be able to drive 125 miles on a charge.
• Not using en-route preconditioning to chargers. Use the Ford Nav to navigate to the charger so the battery is warmer upon arrival.

I think the main factor is you didn't keep the battery warm. The battery will steal the heat away from the cabin if it gets too cold so you won't have any heat. So you must warm it up as much as possible before leaving. If you park the car outside in the winter without plugging in, the battery cools off rapidly. Then when you drive the vehicle, it will use all of the heater trying to warm it back up so you end up with no heat until the battery is warmed up again.

The battery steals the heat to prevent it from severely power limiting and shutting down. In your situation, it wasn't able to keep itself warm enough so you saw the turtle light come on.

The battery will only heat while plugged in. So again, try to park somewhere where you can plug into a level 2 charger.

I've done a lot of testing in cold temps last winter: https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/mach-lees-mach-e-cold-weather-testing-taking-requests.24393/

Thank you for your reply and the depth of your testing, I haven't read through all of it but you obviously have spent a lot of time on this. First off I charge off-peak so that doesn't allow preconditioning when plugged in (unless I leave before 7am). Today it was -6F with 30-40 below wind chill. I did remote start 15 min before I left and probably half hour before I left the meeting where the car was outside versus in the garage at home. I was quite comfortable both ways, I do disagree with your statement about switching to auto. It wasn't until I switched to manual and bumped up the fan a bit that I got comfortable. I do know that if I set my temp to 68 and auto I would have a very uncomfortable ride. Usually we have the temp at 72-73 but now in this colder weather it seems it only gets comfortable at a higher setting. I also notice with a nice warm cabin and you get out in this wind you feel some cool air circulating in the cabin. I know holding your hand by the passenger window you will feel some cool air even though there is absolutely no wind noise and I have always felt it to be a very tight and rattle-free vehicle. It appears that it is wise to keep SOC up in this weather both for safety and comfort. Just to clarify, while driving it does not heat the battery but it does when you do en-route preconditioning? I'm going to do more experimenting with the heater controls, but at least now I found something that works. Thank you very much for your help!

 

[roguemustang]

I also noticed the lack of heat yesterday. Car was in my garage (53*F) and plugged in all night. I do have departure time set for when I leave. It was between -17F and -11F on my drive to work. About halfway there I started losing heat. I ended up setting temp at HI with fan full blast and it couldn’t keep temps above what I estimate to be about 65F.

At work, I plug my car into a L2 charger in covered parking all day. It was about -8F when I left work. I have departure time set for that as well. This time I only made it about 10-15 miles before the heat stopped heating. I did discover, as I got closer to home, that driving slower did allow for more heat. Normally the cruise is set at 73mph, but when I slowed down to 63, the heat worked better. When I got back into town and was driving under 40mph, it could heat as usual again.

For posterity, I will also note that my “normal” is to use 35% of battery each direction, getting about 2.0 mi/kWh. In this cold I got 1.8 on my way in (colder but tailwind) and 1.4 on my way home. It used over 60% just to get home last night.

 

[Murse-In-Airy]

I can understand wanting to charge off peak. But if it’s that cold, you may want to allow your car to be plugged in and maybe use preconditioning, even when it’s on-peak hours. The few KWH it will use to keep the battery at a better temp, will pay off in the long run (as far as long term battery health) and in the short run (because the battery already being warm will allow heat to go to the cabin making short trips more comfortable.)

 

[Mopey]

Like buddy3210, I disagree with one recommendation from Mach-Lee's otherwise excellent cold weather summary. Now entering my third winter driving my Mach E in interior Alaska's frigid conditions (and my second in a Lightning), I do not ever select 'Auto' for the fan speed (nor do I ever manually select the top two speeds of the fan). From my experience, anytime the fan is running at a high speed, and it is competing with the battery for the heater output (which it almost always will be at below zero temps) the cabin heat will begin circulating colder air because there simply isn't enough warm air available to meet the demands of the high speed fan. That is why jumping into a cold Mach E and turning the temp to max and the fan to high results in the cabin never getting warm once temps start dropping below about -10.

If it is below -20 or more, try this experiment: Set the car climate control interior temp to 72, heat 'On', floor and mid vents On, defrost vent off and set the fan speed to2 or 3. On the sync screen under 'Vehicle' 'remote start' select 'Last Temp' and 15 minutes. Leave the car outside overnight and let it cold soak. Don't plug in or set a departure time. (this will simulate that one hour doctor's appointment with the car parked in the cold). Fifteen minutes before departing remote start the car with the Sync App and after 10-15 minutes, start the car and drive. (When you get in, the car should be toasty, even at -20 -30 temps.) After 10 minutes at highway speed, press the defrost button and hold your hand near the windshield. You can feel the cold air when the fan comes on at the high fan speed that 'defrost' requests. The cabin will keep getting colder as the fan stays on high.

Summary from three winters Alaska experience
- in extreme cold, don't let the fan setting stay on high for more than 30 or 40 seconds
- If you can't\don't remote start at very cold conditions, keep the fan at '1' or '2' until you've been driving for 5 minutes or so (like an ice vehicle in extreme cold). At the point you start feeling the warm air from the floor or mid vents you can slowly increase temp or fan speed.

I have tried the 'Auto' setting many different times, but inevitably it commands the fan on 'Hi' and I lose whatever heat I've gained. My software has received all the HVAC updates.

 

[Mach-Lee]

Thank you for your reply and the depth of your testing, I haven't read through all of it but you obviously have spent a lot of time on this. First off I charge off-peak so that doesn't allow preconditioning when plugged in (unless I leave before 7am). Today it was -6F with 30-40 below wind chill. I did remote start 15 min before I left and probably half hour before I left the meeting where the car was outside versus in the garage at home. I was quite comfortable both ways, I do disagree with your statement about switching to auto. It wasn't until I switched to manual and bumped up the fan a bit that I got comfortable. I do know that if I set my temp to 68 and auto I would have a very uncomfortable ride. Usually we have the temp at 72-73 but now in this colder weather it seems it only gets comfortable at a higher setting. I also notice with a nice warm cabin and you get out in this wind you feel some cool air circulating in the cabin. I know holding your hand by the passenger window you will feel some cool air even though there is absolutely no wind noise and I have always felt it to be a very tight and rattle-free vehicle. It appears that it is wise to keep SOC up in this weather both for safety and comfort. Just to clarify, while driving it does not heat the battery but it does when you do en-route preconditioning? I'm going to do more experimenting with the heater controls, but at least now I found something that works. Thank you very much for your help!

Like buddy3210, I disagree with one recommendation from Mach-Lee's otherwise excellent cold weather summary. Now entering my third winter driving my Mach E in interior Alaska's frigid conditions (and my second in a Lightning), I do not ever select 'Auto' for the fan speed (nor do I ever manually select the top two speeds of the fan). From my experience, anytime the fan is running at a high speed, and it is competing with the battery for the heater output (which it almost always will be at below zero temps) the cabin heat will begin circulating colder air because there simply isn't enough warm air available to meet the demands of the high speed fan. That is why jumping into a cold Mach E and turning the temp to max and the fan to high results in the cabin never getting warm once temps start dropping below about -10.

If it is below -20 or more, try this experiment: Set the car climate control interior temp to 72, heat 'On', floor and mid vents On, defrost vent off and set the fan speed to2 or 3. On the sync screen under 'Vehicle' 'remote start' select 'Last Temp' and 15 minutes. Leave the car outside overnight and let it cold soak. Don't plug in or set a departure time. (this will simulate that one hour doctor's appointment with the car parked in the cold). Fifteen minutes before departing remote start the car with the Sync App and after 10-15 minutes, start the car and drive. (When you get in, the car should be toasty, even at -20 -30 temps.) After 10 minutes at highway speed, press the defrost button and hold your hand near the windshield. You can feel the cold air when the fan comes on at the high fan speed that 'defrost' requests. The cabin will keep getting colder as the fan stays on high.

Summary from three winters Alaska experience
- in extreme cold, don't let the fan setting stay on high for more than 30 or 40 seconds
- If you can't\don't remote start at very cold conditions, keep the fan at '1' or '2' until you've been driving for 5 minutes or so (like an ice vehicle in extreme cold). At the point you start feeling the warm air from the floor or mid vents you can slowly increase temp or fan speed.

I have tried the 'Auto' setting many different times, but inevitably it commands the fan on 'Hi' and I lose whatever heat I've gained. My software has received all the HVAC updates.

So as both of you have figured out, the fan speed is critical to heat. If the fan speed is too low, you won't get enough heat output. But if the fan speed is too high, then you will actually push too much heat out the back of the car through the exhaust vents. Too much fan is bad. So there is a very specific "goldilocks zone" for fan speed. And @Mopey I think you found it, it's around 2-3 fan speed.

In my experience, AUTO successfully limits fan speed in that range. Other than the initial warmup, where it may be higher for the first few minutes. I specifically recommend AUTO so people don't turn the fan speed up too high and waste all the heat. But @Mopey perhaps there is a problem in the fan logic if the car never warms up. You're saying it keeps the fan above 3 indefinitely in an attempt to warm up? If so I agree that needs to be tweaked so it drops down to speed 3 after 5 minutes. Perhaps I don't have a problem with it because I use a lower temp setting than you (which brings down the fan speed), or because it can still keep up most of the time in my temps?

So I guess I should revise my logic to start with AUTO, but if it's not warming up then manually set the fan to 2 or 3.

@buddy3210 you should try both our recommendations and see what works now that you know a lower fan speed is important. You will have to use defrost occasionally on AUTO. But occasional fogging is a good sign in a way because it means you are keeping maximum heat in the cabin.

And I should probably clarify, en-route preconditioning isn't going to do much when it's below 10ºF. It probably won't even activate until you turn off HVAC.

I can understand wanting to charge off peak. But if it’s that cold, you may want to allow your car to be plugged in and maybe use preconditioning, even when it’s on-peak hours. The few KWH it will use to keep the battery at a better temp, will pay off in the long run (as far as long term battery health) and in the short run (because the battery already being warm will allow heat to go to the cabin making short trips more comfortable.)

I also second this recommendation. In extreme cold temps, keeping the battery warm is worth the extra couple dollars a month in peak electricity costs. I will happily pay the extra money to not be cold and precondition during peak times when necessary.

 

[buddy3210]

What you might be doing wrong:

• Not keeping the vehicle plugged in all the time while parked. It must stay plugged in to keep the battery warm like a block heater.
• Not setting a departure time before leaving. You need to set a departure time in those temps before trips. This requires you to be plugged in.
• If using remote start, not giving it enough time to warm up. In cold conditions it can take up to 20 minutes of remote start to warm up the cabin. Warming up while parked is also more efficient than trying to do it while driving. So wait for it to finish.
• Not charging enough. Winter uses more energy, so you should charge to 90% or more before leaving on a trip.
• Not using AUTO climate control. AUTO knows best and will manage the heat for optimal efficiency and performance. You shouldn't be manually selecting vents or blower speeds. You can waste a lot of heat that way. The only thing you should manually select is defrost if necessary, put it back to AUTO once clear.
• Using too high of a climate setting. I use 68ºF, you should use something similar. 75ºF is going to waste too much energy.
• Potentially driving too fast. Try to drive about 70 MPH or less to save energy.
• Not planning for reduced range in the winter. In the winter you might only be able to drive 125 miles on a charge.
• Not using en-route preconditioning to chargers. Use the Ford Nav to navigate to the charger so the battery is warmer upon arrival.

I think the main factor is you didn't keep the battery warm. The battery will steal the heat away from the cabin if it gets too cold so you won't have any heat. So you must warm it up as much as possible before leaving. If you park the car outside in the winter without plugging in, the battery cools off rapidly. Then when you drive the vehicle, it will use all of the heater trying to warm it back up so you end up with no heat until the battery is warmed up again.

The battery steals the heat to prevent it from severely power limiting and shutting down. In your situation, it wasn't able to keep itself warm enough so you saw the turtle light come on.

The battery will only heat while plugged in. So again, try to park somewhere where you can plug into a level 2 charger.

I've done a lot of testing in cold temps last winter: https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/mach-lees-mach-e-cold-weather-testing-taking-requests.24393/

I would like to make a few observations from today. Started with 90% SOC, -6F this morning, remote started maybe 20 minutes before we left for church. Comfortable trip, found that since using manual settings had to turn on the defrost manually once in a while to clear windshield, max def cools too much. In town for a couple events so had three 20 - 30 minute remote starts which gave us comfortable short trips. Then another trip tonight after being parked in a 20F garage with 2 relatively long remote starts which gave us a reasonably comfortable trip at -8F and at night, tried auto which did solve the windshield fogging but also meant cooler cabin temp. Came home with 27% SOC and only drove about 70 miles at the most. I was shocked at how much efficiency was lost with all the remote starting. I think Ford really dropped the ball here, their winter testing must have been done in Arizona. I think a dedicated heater for the battery and a bigger heater for the cabin should have been expected in a 60+K car. We could have taken my 5K DTS and cranked up the heater to the point of being too hot and I wouldn't have to fart around with this or that setting, whether the battery is heated enough, how cold I can put up with, and so on. With my off-peak rate I can handle this but I see there are chargers around here that are charging 60cents/kwh or 30cents/min +$5. I know today's efficiency is out of the norm, but if I was charging at these chargers the first would equate to an ICE getting 5mpg and since the mach e is a slow charger the second would equate to around 8mpg, my Dts would have probably been around 17-18mpg since we usually run 23-24mpg.. If someone has the pipe dream of 50% of cars in this country being electric, are they in for a surprise!

 

[Steph]

I got 1.2 mi/kWh today at -9*F. Majority of miles it was sunny with equal parts with and against same 10-15 mph wind. Seat/steering wheel heat on and inside temp abt 65 on Auto or off. I wanted to see if it kept up, or went to turtle mode as I would expect with my ICE car. I was comfortable except for a 20 min jaunt at 70 mph where it started to fall behind. I think I’d rent a car for a long trip if this was my only option. Especially if I had any passengers. The rear seats should really heat also as the EV6 does.

 

[buddy3210]

So as both of you have figured out, the fan speed is critical to heat. If the fan speed is too low, you won't get enough heat output. But if the fan speed is too high, then you will actually push too much heat out the back of the car through the exhaust vents. Too much fan is bad. So there is a very specific "goldilocks zone" for fan speed. And @Mopey I think you found it, it's around 2-3 fan speed.

In my experience, AUTO successfully limits fan speed in that range. Other than the initial warmup, where it may be higher for the first few minutes. I specifically recommend AUTO so people don't turn the fan speed up too high and waste all the heat. But @Mopey perhaps there is a problem in the fan logic if the car never warms up. You're saying it keeps the fan above 3 indefinitely in an attempt to warm up? If so I agree that needs to be tweaked so it drops down to speed 3 after 5 minutes. Perhaps I don't have a problem with it because I use a lower temp setting than you (which brings down the fan speed), or because it can still keep up most of the time in my temps?

So I guess I should revise my logic to start with AUTO, but if it's not warming up then manually set the fan to 2 or 3.

@buddy3210 you should try both our recommendations and see what works now that you know a lower fan speed is important. You will have to use defrost occasionally on AUTO. But occasional fogging is a good sign in a way because it means you are keeping maximum heat in the cabin.

And I should probably clarify, en-route preconditioning isn't going to do much when it's below 10ºF. It probably won't even activate until you turn off HVAC.




I also second this recommendation. In extreme cold temps, keeping the battery warm is worth the extra couple dollars a month in peak electricity costs. I will happily pay the extra money to not be cold and precondition during peak times when necessary.

A little more on yesterday, I mapped it out and we drove 58 miles at most. We used .73 x 88kwh = 64kwh. I understand that I may have 92 kwh available and if so that would only make matters worse. So that figures out to an overall .9m/kwh. At the 60cent/kwh charger and using $2.70 gas here locally that would equate to around an ICE getting 4mpg. Just as a reference my trucks hauling 100000#'s in the winter will do better than that. The car showed 1.4-1.5 m/kwh, 62-64mph, so if we figure 1.4 that means I used about 42 kwh to get from a to b. That leaves 22 kwh for the heater. From what I read it is either a 5 or 5.5 kw heater so that means it ran close to 4 hours, 80-90 minutes of driving time because of in town driving. That leaves about 2.5 hours of remote start and I did set a departure time with HVAC off before we left for the evening. I wanted to see if being generous with the warm up would keep us comfortable and it did but boy did we pay for it. At our .065 off-peak rate I can stomach this and I am going to talk to my electric coop to see if I can keep the off-peak and have it hot the rest of the time at normal .11-.12 rate. Sorry to bother you with this but thought you might find it interesting and you seem to have by far the most knowledge in this area. I see by some of the other posts that I'm not the only one struggling with this.

 

[Handsfree]

What you might be doing wrong:

• Not keeping the vehicle plugged in all the time while parked. It must stay plugged in to keep the battery warm like a block heater.
• Not setting a departure time before leaving. You need to set a departure time in those temps before trips. This requires you to be plugged in.
• If using remote start, not giving it enough time to warm up. In cold conditions it can take up to 20 minutes of remote start to warm up the cabin. Warming up while parked is also more efficient than trying to do it while driving. So wait for it to finish.
• Not charging enough. Winter uses more energy, so you should charge to 90% or more before leaving on a trip.
• Not using AUTO climate control. AUTO knows best and will manage the heat for optimal efficiency and performance. You shouldn't be manually selecting vents or blower speeds. You can waste a lot of heat that way. The only thing you should manually select is defrost if necessary, put it back to AUTO once clear.
• Using too high of a climate setting. I use 68ºF, you should use something similar. 75ºF is going to waste too much energy.
• Potentially driving too fast. Try to drive about 70 MPH or less to save energy.
• Not planning for reduced range in the winter. In the winter you might only be able to drive 125 miles on a charge.
• Not using en-route preconditioning to chargers. Use the Ford Nav to navigate to the charger so the battery is warmer upon arrival.

I think the main factor is you didn't keep the battery warm. The battery will steal the heat away from the cabin if it gets too cold so you won't have any heat. So you must warm it up as much as possible before leaving. If you park the car outside in the winter without plugging in, the battery cools off rapidly. Then when you drive the vehicle, it will use all of the heater trying to warm it back up so you end up with no heat until the battery is warmed up again.

The battery steals the heat to prevent it from severely power limiting and shutting down. In your situation, it wasn't able to keep itself warm enough so you saw the turtle light come on.

The battery will only heat while plugged in. So again, try to park somewhere where you can plug into a level 2 charger.

I've done a lot of testing in cold temps last winter: https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/mach-lees-mach-e-cold-weather-testing-taking-requests.24393/

Great advice, can I confirm that if your car is plugged in but your charger has a perferred time of day to charge, will you car override this and do a pre-conditioning of the battery on the schedule time of day that you set it at?

 

[sid234]

I have been having this issue for the last 2 weeks but giving it 15mins and trying again would be sufficient. This morning was the worst - I had set it to condition car off charger (didn't turn on), remote start failed too.
Car said AWD doesn't work, stop safely now, etc. It's about 6F right now. We had colder winters last year and this had never happened. Car is becoming unreliable to be a daily driver

 

[sid234]

Something weird just happened to me - Car just not working and has more errors, Got a call from a number claiming to be Ford Roadside assistance saying car needs to be towed to nearest dealer and saying they would set it up for me.

Called my dealer - they said no open recalls and its abnormal for roadside to have called me directly

 

[Mach-Lee]

Something weird just happened to me - Car just not working and has more errors, Got a call from a number claiming to be Ford Roadside assistance saying car needs to be towed to nearest dealer and saying they would set it up for me.

Called my dealer - they said no open recalls and its abnormal for roadside to have called me directly

They will call you if your HVBJB is showing bad. You should schedule the tow and inform the dealer they do call you now.

 

[sid234]

They will call you if your HVBJB is showing bad. You should schedule the tow and inform the dealer they do call you now.

The dealer says it's scam! I am so stressed out and dealer says 2 wks before car is even looked at and I have to pay for the rental while it's looked at - they have no open recalls or issues flagged for my car

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