So the rate is about 13.7 cents today where you are. So you have generated $129 per month worth of power at today’s rate. I am an engineer and tracking Solar costs and paybacks around the country. Would you share your total system out of pocket cost?
Easier said than done
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gross cost for solar varies considerably by region and equipment.... not all solar in the same. tier 1 solar panel wholesale cost is down to less than $0.50/watt, the 'best' stuff with best warranty is right at $0.50/watt wholesale, but then you have racking, permitting, and labor costs....
After the 30% federal tax credit, the PA rebate, and the power company paying for the required second meter base, $21,090. 90,400 kWh x 0.137 = $12, 384.80. Payback is the wrong way to look at it. It was an improvement to the house. The house is now worth 5.9 times what I paid for it.
I think you misunderstood me. Yes homes need batteries to reduce the strain on the grid, but they don't have to be lithium-ion - they can be any chemistry since weight isn't a factor. Lead-acid or some other cheaper, more available formulation so it doesn't take away from li-ion production for cars.
Just use the car battery... no need to buy a second set
Unfortunately that will not keep the house running, such as heating, home computers/servers, etc... while the car is being used for what a car is meant to be used for...
I would be fine with alternative battery chemistry as long as they last as long, but lead-acid batteries last typically 5 years for a house and lithium ion last 15 years. I do not want to buy and replace the batteries 3 times as often.
presumably you and your car would only care about a rolling brownout or emergency outage if you were home.... at which time you *could* extract energy from your MME to keep the critical loads like refrigerator, lights, computer, and phones running for days. Might not be able to run ALL your A/C, but you'd get by running at least one if you powered up a 2000-3000 watt inverter...
Get a Garelick snow rake and you can keep the snow off in winter as long as you get to it before it freezes
I'd like to discourage using that large of an inverter, the DC-DC converter can only output 160A MAX under optimal conditions, which is under 2000W. It would be foolish to draw more than 1000W and risk burning out the DC-DC module. Also sloppy using unprotected jumper cables an inch apart from each other. Short those by accident and you'll probably be stranded and looking at a $1500+ repair bill that isn't covered by warranty due to misuse. Too much expensive hardware at stake here.presumably you and your car would only care about a rolling brownout or emergency outage if you were home.... at which time you *could* extract energy from your MME to keep the critical loads like refrigerator, lights, computer, and phones running for days. Might not be able to run ALL your A/C, but you'd get by running at least one if you powered up a 2000-3000 watt inverter...
you *can* do this today via the 12v connections
In case of a power outage, I still have to leave for work and take the Mach e with me, and need to keep things running for the wife... Anyways, I already have two powerwall2 in addition to solar, so it's moot for myself. Would be great if I could do V2H, but only going to consider that if officially supported by the manufacturer (F150ev looks sweet, but details incomplete).
I have a snow rake but 50% of my panels are on top of a 2 story house. There is no way I am going up there at my age. It works for the 1 story garage roof but quite often we get freezing rain followed by snow.
I recently read an article about lithium battery reuse/recycling.
Yes, there's a strong market for BEV battery packs retired from service due to accidents or even an inability to hold a full charge. Even when it won't hold enough power for automotive use the pack has lots of life backing up homes or server farms.
