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Just tripped on this thread - I just installed the same hitch, but now my "kick to open" is not working as well. Do you have that feature in your car and if so, was it affected?
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Garbone

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Mine is a Select, so not as many gadgets.
Just tripped on this thread - I just installed the same hitch, but now my "kick to open" is not working as well. Do you have that feature in your car and if so, was it affected?
No, mine is a Select so fewer gadgets to go wrong.
 

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Perhaps a silly question on my part, but when you don’t need it how do you take it off? It can be removed?
 
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Garbone

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Perhaps a silly question on my part, but when you don’t need it how do you take it off? It can be removed?
You could I guess, if you had a lift in your garage it would be easier. I could see it if you lived in s place it snowed. No way would I be loading so much for camping in December. But then again you could get a ski wrack attachment..... If they make such a thing..
 

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More on Draw-Tite installation: Another Draw-Tite Installation

[Hmmm, someone had trouble seeing the file - I just tried getting to it on wife's computer, went fine. Please let me know if not working.]
 
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More on Draw-Tite installation: Another Draw-Tite Installation
The link above goes to a Dropbox that is inaccessible.

Are there any further experiences with kick to open? The Torx directions mention sensor wiring. The diagram on another thread would indicate that they run under the bumper cover at two levels - maybe you trimmed through part of it. I will be looking carefully.

I am looking forward to the install - all the others have had exhaust in the way.
 
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dhoerl

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The link above goes to a Dropbox that is inaccessible.

Are there any further experiences with kick to open? The Torx directions mention sensor wiring. The diagram on another thread would indicate that they run under the bumper cover at two levels - maybe you trimmed through part of it. I will be looking carefully.

I am looking forward to the install - all the others have had exhaust in the way.
Trying to get the link to be public - suspect Dropbox knows its me. Email me at dhoerl at mac dot come, will send PDF. Also, I tested the link on my wife's computer - it was viewable. But still maybe DropBox knows it me because of IP address?
 
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hls811

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More on Draw-Tite installation: Another Draw-Tite Installation

[Hmmm, someone had trouble seeing the file - I just tried getting to it on wife's computer, went fine. Please let me know if not working.]
I just got my hitch delivered today.. I have one quote of $240 for the install, waiting to hear back from one other place and then I'll decide whether to do it myself or not.. The weather may be a factor, as I don't know when I'd be able to get outside for a few hours without freezing hands, I'm thinking gloves might make it tougher.
The instructions you posted make it look so easy - thank you so much for the write-up; it definitely makes it look like something I could do myself!
 
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dhoerl

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I just got my hitch delivered today.. I have one quite of $240 for the install, waiting to hear back from one other place and then I'll decide whether to do it myself or not.. The weather may be a factor, as I don't know when I'd be able to get outside for a few hours without freezing hands, I'm thinking gloves might make it tougher.
The instructions you posted make it look so easy - thank you so much for the write-up; it definitely makes it look like something I could do myself!
In this weather, either heated garage or $240!

there is a second write up - ours complement each other.

Good Luck!
 

hls811

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To Etrailer I went and bought the Draw-Tite Hitch for my MachE. Decided on it because of the price and higher tongue weight than the Curt. I have no plans on towing but who knows what type of stuff I may load on the hitch platform. Hauling gasoline. grills, coolers, bikes are the reason for this install.

The instructions were pretty good. The list the number and type of fasteners to be removed and the dimensions of the cut needed.



I purchased a set of Rino-Ramps from Amazon for this. I own a crawler and all the other tools used.

If a person does not own a torque wrench I believe you can borrow them from the local automotive store much like a loan a tool. Installation to the correct spec on torque is really important here. I started at 25lbs and increased the setting on the wrench until 50lbs specified was reached. The crush washers supplied with the hitch require the torque to work. I think I got at about 1/8 to 1/4 turn of crush out of the supplied washers between 25lbs and 50lbs.

Backing the Mustang onto the ramp was actually pretty nice, I have done ICE cars on ramps and always have had stress about falling off. Be it an automatic or clutch you really do not get the feel of the ramp and I always worried. The nature of the electric motors in the MachE make it very easy to feel I actually stopped on the flat and did not hit the rear stop on the ramp having to back until it I did. With one peddle there is no movement and it is very sure footed. Put on the parking brake and chocked the front tires, just because.

The 16 10mm's holding on the cover are not in there tight. I just used the socket on the extension and no wrench handle when removing and installing. Just hand snug. The 4 plastic rivets are of two types and removed after the 10mm 's and it helps for the forward ones to reach above the cover, the rear plastic rivets you pull out a the center to remove them.

Once the covers were off I measured the spacing on the hitch and frame rail holes, just to be sure. Everything lined up. I then found the center of the rear valance and marked out my cuts. I just did the side cuts 4.75 inches and did not cut the 8 inch rear cut. Electing to fold up the plastic instead. The plastic was fairly thick. I used electrician snips to start but ended up using tabbing shears. They made quick work of things.

The hitch came with all the fasteners and spring wires needed for install. Bolts and interior washers went in easily using the spring wires.


I used a floor jack to aid in lifting up the hitch. Of note the full extension needed to lift this hitch into place with the car on the ramps was 19 inches. I had to use some cribbing to add to the height of the jack.

I put the nut on the first bolt on the driver side, leaving off the crush washer. Then placed nuts and washers on the passenger side followed my the last nut and washer on the driver. At this point I put the washer on the fist bolt and proceeded to torque everything down to spec.

After reinstalling the cover total elapse time for me with this install was about 2 hours and 10 minutes from start to finish of work. It would have been miserable without the creeper.
More on Draw-Tite installation: Another Draw-Tite Installation

[Hmmm, someone had trouble seeing the file - I just tried getting to it on wife's computer, went fine. Please let me know if not working.]
Special thanks to @Garbone and @dhoerl for their helpful write-ups! I printed and studied those, along with the Draw-Tite instructions from their website and attempted the installation tonight.

It took me just over 3 hours, removing the lower cover was simple, I did a full cut of the bumper; there was a lot of resistance when I tried to fold it back so I just cut it out. I don’t plan on ever removing the hitch so it wasn’t a big deal. I used @dhoerl suggestion of a cardboard template and put on painters tape and drew my line on there and then cut it with a dremel - that definitely helped.

I did have a hard time getting the hitch in place on the bolts. I tried it myself but just couldn’t do it and ended up calling a buddy over to help, that made it much easier as he was able too hold it in place freeing up me to use two hands to hold and thread the bolts.
The biggest problem I had was that one of the right side holes didn’t line up perfectly - it was off about 1/8” - just enough that I couldn’t get the bolt through. I could see that the arm wasn’t perfectly square. Once I got 3 of the 4 bolts loosely in place I wacked it with a mallet a few times and was able to bang it over enough to thread it.

I used ramps to lift the back of the car. I did try jackstands to hold the hitch but it just didn’t work for me, I needed the extra hands. It was very frustrating at times, there may have been some curses said, but I don’t know if they were out loud or just in my head. I couldn’t find anyone local who was interested in taking my money to do it but I’m really glad I was able to do it myself.

I’ll get more pics tomorrow before I throw my 1Up rack on the back.

and P.S. the kick sensor seems to work just fine for me.

629D77E5-AA2E-4C75-B31D-EE6209806A78.jpeg
 
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hls811

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Here's a few pictures of the Draw-Tite hitch and my 1Up Rack installed... I couldn't be happier with how it came out.

I have the hitch about 1/2" from the bumper when closed.. the 1Up allows me to slide it about 3" if I needed to, I have it almost all of the way in. I love that when the hitch is up, its not really noticeable; its no higher than the black trim along the bottom of the car.

It does block the rear sensors, so I had to turn off active brake assist to keep it from beeping like crazy. I do get a warning on the screen that the rear sensors are blocked, but I have unobstructed visibility through the rear camera with the bike off, and still have great visibility with it on.

It does block the rear reverse spot light, but there is some reflection around it, so its not that theres nothing there, its just not as bright as it would be without the rack on. I had no problem backing into my driveway and seeing through the rear view camera; and with the outside beeps and regular reverse lights people will see, and hear, be backing up.

The foot sensor still works fine, although with the rack on, its a much more awkward stretch to get to it, so I won't really be using it anyway. The keyfob and button on the trunk are fine for me. For my biking gear I'll actually use the frunk or inside the cabin more than the trunk anyway.

You can see in the 2nd picture where the cutout is; I'd like to try and find something I can put in there to cover the opening, but I'm not sure how to go about doing that.

Like I said, overall I'm very happy with the Draw-Tite hitch and it is $280 that was very well spent!!

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hls811

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So… has anyone removed their Draw-Tite hitch yet? How would you get the bolts out of the frame?
Or does anyone know that size of the bolts if I need to replace them?

My original MME order came in and I may be trading this one in but would have to move the hitch over.
 

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So… has anyone removed their Draw-Tite hitch yet? How would you get the bolts out of the frame?
Or does anyone know that size of the bolts if I need to replace them?

My original MME order came in and I may be trading this one in but would have to move the hitch over.
If I was doing this I’d just get a new hitch and leave the existing one on. The bumper skirt has been cut or notched. Unless you did as I did and wired the hidden washers , you’ll have a difficult time extracting them. If you fail to do that they’ll rattle around - but that will be the next owners problem I guess.

Ask for more $$$ given the hitch, the real selling point is Ford offers no rear tow point, but with the hitch installed you have one! Lots of threads on that issue!
 

hls811

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If I was doing this I’d just get a new hitch and leave the existing one on. The bumper skirt has been cut or notched. Unless you did as I did and wired the hidden washers , you’ll have a difficult time extracting them. If you fail to do that they’ll rattle around - but that will be the next owners problem I guess.

Ask for more $$$ given the hitch, the real selling point is Ford offers no rear tow point, but with the hitch installed you have one! Lots of threads on that issue!
Yup.. definitely an option.. for under $300 it might be easier to do that.

I'm going through Carvana on the sale, so I don't know if adding anything like that aftermarket would actually increase the value of it, but you're probably right. If there's no drainage holes to get it through I'm probably better off with a new one.
 

hls811

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I did leave the other hitch on my car when I sold it, a nice surprise for the next buyer...

I don't have any other pics because its dark, but installation #2 is in the books!

It took about 20 minutes less than the first time, but I was also able to do this one myself. One thing I did differently was NOT use the ramps to lift the back of the car off the ground. Last time I struggled because of the height, I wasn't able to prop the hitch on anything while I got the bolts connected and ended up needing to have a friend come over to hold one side in place. This time, with the car being lower, it was more manageable. I got one bolt on pretty easily, then propped the other side up with a box and got a 2nd bolt in - that did take some time simply because I didn't have a good angle to hold the hitch, the washer and the bolt at the same time. But, once I got that 2nd one on the other 2 were simple.

Hopefully, this is the last one I have to put on for a while; I plan on keeping this MME a few years!

Ford Mustang Mach-E Draw-tite Trailer Hitch Receiver Install IMG_8946.JPG
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