Eibach Sway bars now avalable for the Mach E

[Skyman63]

I recently installed the Eibach front and rear anti-sway bars on the advice of Mark Boris, who also provided a great deal of technical support. I have a 22 GTPE running on Pirelli P Zero AS 3+'s. Here are my thoughts on the change.

The installation was pretty straight forward. I did it by myself with no help except Mark on the phone. The back bar was a bear mostly because of the very tight quarters between the HV battery and the bolts you need to work with. The front bar was pretty straight forward. I used the stiffest setting on the front bar because I wanted to minimize oversteer. Everything fit perfectly with no rubbing or contact anywhere.

Since I installed them last weekend, I've driven about 500 miles on the twisty, hilly, two-lane roads I have down here. I have noticed a distinct improvement my car in several areas.

The ride is smoother. Imperfections like expansion joints or cracks do not come through the suspension as much as they used to. The ride is also a bit quieter.

The biggest change is in the steering and handling, which I thought was great to begin with. The car just goes where you point it with no hesitation. It feels like there is no curve the car can't handle. A phrase like "corners like it's on rails" comes to mind. There is very little roll that occurs.

The difference is significant, and definitely worth the investment of time and money to do it.

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[markboris]

I recently installed the Eibach front and rear anti-sway bars on the advice of Mark Boris, who also provided a great deal of technical support. I have a 22 GTPE running on Pirelli P Zero AS 3+'s. Here are my thoughts on the change.

The installation was pretty straight forward. I did it by myself with no help except Mark on the phone. The back bar was a bear mostly because of the very tight quarters between the HV battery and the bolts you need to work with. The front bar was pretty straight forward. I used the stiffest setting on the front bar because I wanted to minimize oversteer. Everything fit perfectly with no rubbing or contact anywhere.

Since I installed them last weekend, I've driven about 500 miles on the twisty, hilly, two-lane roads I have down here. I have noticed a distinct improvement my car in several areas.

The ride is smoother. Imperfections like expansion joints or cracks do come through the suspension as much as they used to. The ride is also a bit quieter.

The biggest change is in the steering and handling, which I thought was great to begin with. The car just goes where you point it with no hesitation. It feels like there is no curve the car can't handle. A phrase like "corners like it's on rails" comes to mind. There is very little roll that occurs.

The difference is significant, and definitely worth the investment of time and money to do it.

Great review David and as I've said many times in multiple threads, changing out the OEM bars for better ones is my favorite mod on this car. As long as you have twisty roads to drive on, there is a huge improvement in the handling of this heavy car.

When I first installed them, I didn't mention that the ride was ever so slightly softer because I thought I might be imagining it. Then after Erik and a few others got their bars installed, they all mentioned the same thing and I agreed with them. The OEM bars have rubber bushings that are vulcanized on making them less pliable which allows you to feel more of the slight imperfections on the road. I think this also may contribute to the fact the OEM bar/bushing setup is slightly noisier.

 

[MrLoganRoss]

I am wondering who you guys would trust to install these in the Seattle area? Thanks.

 

[HuntingPudel]

Great review David and as I've said many times in multiple threads, changing out the OEM bars for better ones is my favorite mod on this car. As long as you have twisty roads to drive on, there is a huge improvement in the handling of this heavy car.

When I first installed them, I didn't mention that the ride was ever so slightly softer because I thought I might be imagining it. Then after Erik and a few others got their bars installed, they all mentioned the same thing and I agreed with them. The OEM bars have rubber bushings that are vulcanized on making them less pliable which allows you to feel more of the slight imperfections on the road. I think this also may contribute to the fact the OEM bar/bushing setup is slightly noisier.

Additionally, the vulcanized bushings on the front bar are preloaded, so the front is already slightly bound up by the bushings. IIRC, the rear bar’s bushings had no preload (although I might be mis-remembering that). In either event the preloaded bushings do contribute to some ride noise and harshness, even though they are softer than the urethane used in the Steesa and Eibach bars.

 

[HuntingPudel]

I am wondering who you guys would trust to install these in the Seattle area? Thanks.

Bars are crazy simple to do yourself. They are just time-consuming. If you have a floor jack and some stands, you can do it yourself in half a day.

If you are set on having a mechanic do it, I would look for someone who has experience with suspension work. I am not familiar with the shops in your area, so maybe you can get in touch with a local car enthusiast club or a speed shop and they can point you in the right direction.

 

[rreddy3]

Bars are crazy simple to do yourself. They are just time-consuming. If you have a floor jack and some stands, you can do it yourself in half a day.

If you are set on having a mechanic do it, I would look for someone who has experience with suspension work. I am not familiar with the shops in your area, so maybe you can get in touch with a local car enthusiast club or a speed shop and they can point you in the right direction.

My area of concern when I do mine is the clearance in the back end between the bar and 480 stuff hanging, as I think I understand the images in the Eibach instructions, off the back end of the battery tray. And of course, what happens if the hapless installer (me) accidentally touches the 480 bits in the process of removing/replacing bars? My work anywhere near a car’s electrics starts w/ 6v systems two or three billion years ago and 12v systems. This 480 stuff is in a different galaxy.

Thoughts on this please?

 

[HuntingPudel]

My area of concern when I do mine is the clearance in the back end between the bar and 480 stuff hanging, as I think I understand the images in the Eibach instructions, off the back end of the battery tray. And of course, what happens if the hapless installer (me) accidentally touches the 480 bits in the process of removing/replacing bars? My work anywhere near a car’s electrics starts w/ 6v systems two or three billion years ago and 12v systems. This 480 stuff is in a different galaxy.

Thoughts on this please?

The car isn’t running, so the circuit isn’t energized. Of course, treat it like it is energized, but a small mistake won’t be disastrous.

 

[rreddy3]

The car isn’t running, so the circuit isn’t energized. Of course, treat it like it is energized, but a small mistake won’t be disastrous.

Good point and excellent advice. Pebbles the thanks you as she is concerned for the chief walker and kibble provider!

Thanks

 

[MrLoganRoss]

Bars are crazy simple to do yourself. They are just time-consuming. If you have a floor jack and some stands, you can do it yourself in half a day.

If you are set on having a mechanic do it, I would look for someone who has experience with suspension work. I am not familiar with the shops in your area, so maybe you can get in touch with a local car enthusiast club or a speed shop and they can point you in the right direction.

Thanks for the encouragement. However I don’t trust myself

 

[mkhuffman]

Good point and excellent advice. Pebbles the thanks you as she is concerned for the chief walker and kibble provider!

Thanks

Thanks for the encouragement. However I don’t trust myself

I have never done suspension work on a car in my life before I put the Steeda bars on. If you are handy with a wrench and have time to do it, you will be fine. As Steve said, it isn't hard. The rear is the hardest one but it isn't really that hard. You do have to be careful not to hit the HV cables but if you lightly bump them it won't do anything. Don't worry about it, seriously.

If you are not handy, then have a professional do it for sure.

And I can confirm what Mark and others have said: replacing the sway bars has a very dramatic impact on handling, and it it too bad Ford didn't build them this way from the factory. It is a huge improvement IMO.

As far as straight line ride improvement goes, I agree with Mark on that as well. But if it is the bounce that bothers you, the sway bars don't help that. They make it a little smoother and they eliminate the left to right instability the stock setup creates. Which is a ride quality improvement for sure.

 

[HuntingPudel]

I have never done suspension work on a car in my life before I put the Steeda bars on. If you are handy with a wrench and have time to do it, you will be fine. As Steve said, it isn't hard. The rear is the hardest one but it isn't really that hard. You do have to be careful not to hit the HV cables but if you lightly bump them it won't do anything. Don't worry about it, seriously.
<SNIP>.

LOL I actually thought the front was either harder or more annoying. Maybe it’s the lack of thumbs.

 

[rreddy3]

LOL I actually thought the front was either harder or more annoying. Maybe it’s the lack of thumbs.

Pebbles has dew claws, almost thumbs, she would have helped!

 

[mkhuffman]

LOL I actually thought the front was either harder or more annoying. Maybe it’s the lack of thumbs.

When I replaced the Steeda front with the Eibach, I didn't even take off the undercarriage cover or go under the car. I disconnected the old one, slid it out, and then slid in the new one. So easy. The first time I put the Steeda on I got under the car and took the undercarriage cover off. That is totally unnecessary.

 

[HuntingPudel]

When I replaced the Steeda front with the Eibach, I didn't even take off the undercarriage cover or go under the car. I disconnected the old one, slid it out, and then slid in the new one. So easy. The first time I put the Steeda on I got under the car and took the undercarriage cover off. That is totally unnecessary.

Yeah, i took off the front aero cover and removed the frunk when I installed the Steeda. It’s been out a couple of times since and I didn’t remove either item for those, or for the other members I helped install or fix theirs.

 

[rreddy3]

Yeah, i took off the front aero cover and removed the frunk when I installed the Steeda. It’s been out a couple of times since and I didn’t remove either item for those, or for the other members I helped install or fix theirs.

Mike, Steve, that’s good to know about the front end. Makes life easier. Thanks. I’m playing a waiting game for a little while longer to see whether my watching the bars on TD’s ebay page gets me a discounted by now price…which I think is what some other people did.

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