FDRS - Mach-E

[phidauex]

My desire to flash module firmware and my desire not to brick my car are at war. Can anyone recommend some specific J2534 boxes that are known to be compatible with FDRS? $1500 is a bit steep to satisfy my curiosity, but several hundred for a used device that is compatible would be OK.

I don’t have any experience flashing modern cars, though I’ve flashed the ECU on my old Subarus and various AVR and STMicro devices and motor controllers over the years.

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[ProximusAl]

A VCM 2 would also work, but you need to ensure you get a genuine one, as the cheap Chinese knock offs could permanently damage your vehicle.

I've read about a Mongoose interface as well, but I cannot comment on whether this works 100% with FDRS.

Bottom line, spend 50K on a car, it's worth buying the genuine kit that the dealer uses.

 

[kltye]

My desire to flash module firmware and my desire not to brick my car are at war. Can anyone recommend some specific J2534 boxes that are known to be compatible with FDRS? $1500 is a bit steep to satisfy my curiosity, but several hundred for a used device that is compatible would be OK.

I don’t have any experience flashing modern cars, though I’ve flashed the ECU on my old Subarus and various AVR and STMicro devices and motor controllers over the years.

Here's a list: https://www.motorcraftservice.com/diagnostic/FJDSSupport?categoryId=247 (The page errored out after the country/language selection for me. If that happens, just open the link again after you hit the error page)

I have the Bosch Mastertech VCI and haven't had any issues with it. The Snap-On hardware works well, too. I bought an Eucleia box from eBay, which partially supported FDRS - it could read the car details, but couldn't actually flash it. It didn't brick my car or anything; FDRS just errored out when trying to flash the modules.

 

[ProximusAl]

So today, I finally decided to update my IPMA module, after being scared as it takes so long so I thought it might be useful to document my experience. I’m in the UK so sorry for any non-americanisms

First of all, get yourself a good external power supply. I use this one which outputs 12V DC @ 25 Amps constant. This is more than enough for module programming on the Mach-E (Not necessarily other makes)

https://www.tayna.co.uk/battery-chargers/ctek/pro25s/

This charger (albeit you use it in supply mode for programming) is not suitable for charging the Mach-E 12V battery, as the specs show 40Ah upwards and the Mach-e has a pesky little 35Ah, so I have a CTEK MXS-10 for charging that.

https://www.tayna.co.uk/battery-chargers/ctek/mxs10/

I used this before doing anything to make sure my 12V battery was full before attempting this module update

I used FDRS with a VCM3 and the whole process for the IPMA took 75 minutes. The 12V battery at its lowest….near the end….was 11.7V so that 25A supply did it’s job.

There is a pump that runs throughout the whole process, which sounds a bit like a washing machine when it’s filling up. It never turned off for me, but I’ve read for other people it has.

The golden rule with FDRS is “Be Patient”. There are a few parts of the update where it looks like nothing is happening, but it is.

So ALL of my modules are now up to date!
I have now reattached my MXS-10 to top back up the 12V battery.

What appears to be interesting is I never received PowerUp 1.6.0, which updates the GWM. As I updated this myself with FDRS a few weeks back, it seems that the OTA system must be “aware” of whether the car needs it or not.

Anyway, hope this information might help someone, but make sure you have a decent power supply or you may risk the 12V going flat during programming.That would not be ideal!

P.S. No recalibration was required after the IPMA update.

 

[i8iridium]

I got busy yesterday and did the IPMA update as well. Took about 90 minutes. Same results as you, no recalibration. Everything just worked immediately.

 

[louibluey]

A VCM 2 would also work, but you need to ensure you get a genuine one, as the cheap Chinese knock offs could permanently damage your vehicle.

I've read about a Mongoose interface as well, but I cannot comment on whether this works 100% with FDRS.

Bottom line, spend 50K on a car, it's worth buying the genuine kit that the dealer uses.

Only a first session, but as far as I can tell, the Mongoose®-Plus Ford2 works 100% with FDRS, available from Amazon for $495. Drew Technology has good tech support, call them if you have any concerns (no affiliation, I learned about this product from @generaltso post# 18).

 

[ProximusAl]

I got busy yesterday and did the IPMA update as well. Took about 90 minutes. Same results as you, no recalibration. Everything just worked immediately.

That’s some 12V power supply you have there. In red as well ?

 

[i8iridium]

That’s some 12V power supply you have there. In red as well ?

Not as cheap as the one on amazon, but it worked in a pinch ?

 

[phidauex]

Thanks for all the updates - I ended up buying a lightly used SnapOn Pass Thru Pro III on eBay for $700. If I had waited another few days I probably would have sprung for the Mongoose Plus Ford2 and saved a little bit! If it proves to be fully FDRS compatible maybe I’ll buy it and resell the SnapOn.

I do have a good 10A 12V vehicle supply (can be a charger as well as a fixed 12V power supply) - thanks for the heads up on this. My gut wouldn‘t have worried that much about it if the only thing the 12V system was doing was running the actual modules, but if the pumps and things are running during the update then the external power supply is clearly mandatory.

I’ll give it a try when I receive the unit and report back.

 

[louibluey]

Thanks for all the updates - I ended up buying a lightly used SnapOn Pass Thru Pro III on eBay for $700. If I had waited another few days I probably would have sprung for the Mongoose Plus Ford2 and saved a little bit! If it proves to be fully FDRS compatible maybe I’ll buy it and resell the SnapOn.

I do have a good 10A 12V vehicle supply (can be a charger as well as a fixed 12V power supply) - thanks for the heads up on this. My gut wouldn‘t have worried that much about it if the only thing the 12V system was doing was running the actual modules, but if the pumps and things are running during the update then the external power supply is clearly mandatory.

I’ll give it a try when I receive the unit and report back.

yesterday, I had periods of 12V 36A draw from the external power supply. Today, the highest current was 24A. 10A might work, or at least extend the time to low 12V LVB, but ideally, we probably want a 50A minimum charger/power supply to cover all bases, especially if FDRS sessions go for hours.

That said, my dealer was updating my MME for some hours before I noticed they had no charger connected, and everything was still okay. I bet many dealer updates are done with no power supply connected. Or, the dealer might connect L2, which some TSB/SSM say is not the same thing, and not recommended in lieu of a 12V charger/power supply (or, a Red Mustang!).

 

[Finkerton]

Does anyone know of a list of settable values you can program? I don't have an interface yet but if disabling the alarm -- or at least, the horn part of it -- is possible, that may be enough to get me to invest in a Mongoose...

And beyond that specific item I'm curious what else I might be able to customize.

 

[ChasingCoral]

That’s some 12V power supply you have there. In red as well ?

It requires a fast charger

 

[phidauex]

yesterday, I had periods of 12V 36A draw from the external power supply. Today, the highest current was 24A. 10A might work, or at least extend the time to low 12V LVB, but ideally, we probably want a 50A minimum charger/power supply to cover all bases, especially if FDRS sessions go for hours.

Man, that is a lot of juice, I’ll see what I can wrangle up for a bigger supply.

 

[louibluey]

Does anyone know of a list of settable values you can program? I don't have an interface yet but if disabling the alarm -- or at least, the horn part of it -- is possible, that may be enough to get me to invest in a Mongoose...

And beyond that specific item I'm curious what else I might be able to customize.

I have the same questions. Watching way too many YouTube videos on FORScan now, the F150 community has many FORScan setting options. For example, possibly in older versions, or as an alternative programming method, for a module, there are tables of module address data down the left side of the page, then several spaces where the present HEX numbers (the data) are shown. Apparently you can change some or any of the HEX numbers, to say set a tire circumference size. There are user spread sheets that give the HEX numbers for various F150 tire types and tell you which number to change. I also saw a video where, possibly a newer version of FORScan, or just a different way, where there was a readable list of BCM settings, tires size in mm being one of them, and the YouTuber just typed in his new circumference in mm and saved and flashed the data to the BCM module.

Then, they can also do things like kill the dreaded F150 power on, driver's door closed double beep.

I do not see so far any detailed examples of what we MME FORScan users can change with spreadsheets or instructions. It may just be too early.

 

[louibluey]

@ProximusAl I cannot remember I remembered to thank you for your post. I have been thinking about FDRS and FORScan for a long time now, but only got the courage to try it after reading your posts. Thank you for being a pioneer in MME DIY FDRS!

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