Ford Charger for Mach-E

jksu

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yup, we were unlucky.

main panel is all the way on the other side of the house away from our detached garage.

they had to run thick conduit under the entire house, dig a trench under the walkway to get into the garage... put in a sub panel in the back of the garage. we wanted two 14-50 plugs...a 50amp inside and 40amp outside. they routed most of the conduit up through the garage attic to make it look less messy. 2 outlets because thinking future needs when we have 2 electric cars, or for visitors.

close to $3000 here in los angeles, using up the full $1000 fed tax credit on this job. debated just living with 120v but caught the wife in a generous mood and liked the idea of just getting things done right and future proof the house

You were lucky. Most people don't have two separate 120V circuits (opposite phases) totally unused in their garage. Most people only have one 120V circuit in their garage, and it's often being used (the whole point of having outlets in the garage).

Actually many do have a 2nd circuit -- for the garage door opener. But they usually want to keep that in use for the garage door opener.

Some people have their main panel in the garage. That's fairly inexpensive to run a 240 circuit from a few feet away. But most aren't that fortunate. Running it from a panel on the outside of the house is usually in the $500-$1000 range. Mine was about $900.
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Sweetwater

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My run to garage in basement was 20' Material : 20' 3/4" emt - 50 amp
breaker - 3 @ 25' #6 awg 1 @ 25' #8 awg (grn) 3 phase disconnect
14/50 recp & raised cover & box , steel emt conn. & bushing
emt straps & misc material. Total $152.00
 

dbsb3233

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The program offers up to $70,000 per charging station.
And that only partially pays for them. Wow, those things are expensive to purchase/install/maintain. Far more than most of us probably think they are.
 

dbsb3233

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My run to garage in basement was 20' Material : 20' 3/4" emt - 50 amp
breaker - 3 @ 25' #6 awg 1 @ 25' #8 awg (grn) 3 phase disconnect
14/50 recp & raised cover & box , steel emt conn. & bushing
emt straps & misc material. Total $152.00
Yep, the materials are relatively cheap. It's the labor & code assurances that's the expensive part. I was tempted to do it myself to save most of that cost (I've done 120V circuits from the breaker before), but I wasn't 100% sure on all the code requirements here. So I went ahead and paid an electrician to do it. That's where it went from $150 in parts to a $900 bill.
 

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Yep, the materials are relatively cheap. It's the labor & code assurances that's the expensive part. I was tempted to do it myself to save most of that cost (I've done 120V circuits from the breaker before), but I wasn't 100% sure on all the code requirements here. So I went ahead and paid an electrician to do it. That's where it went from $150 in parts to a $900 bill.
Same here, though $850... But I'm pretty sure I'd have adhered to more of the code than my electrician. He said he has 40 years experience and everything will be fine. ?
 


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Yes all is very true. I was speaking of what"katumba1" was going
to do if he has a good 30 amp circuit.
I'm fine with the 30amp (24 actual) charging. Getting the big battery MME and we don't drive every day.
 

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Here is the back of my 10-30 outlet. Thoughts? Should be good to change the socket (edit) over to 14-30, correct?

Ford Mustang Mach-E Ford Charger for Mach-E IMG_20201221_081443313
I would say yes - You've got the required wire for a 14-30 receptacle. 10-30 is just hot-hot-neutral (no ground). 14-30 is hot-hot-neutral-ground, and you've got a ground wire there in the box bundled with that romex.
 

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Here is the back of my 10-30 outlet. Thoughts? Should be good to change the socket (edit) over to 14-30, correct?

You are 100% good to go. ;) You may be able to loosen the screw and pull a
little more cable IF the ground is short. Take out the other screws and clamps
throw them away to give you a little more room in the box. Your 14/30 recp will
be marked at each screw to show what wire goes where.

IMG_20201221_081443313.jpg
 

dbsb3233

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As long as its connected on the other end.
That's what I was gonna say too. And connected to the earth ground bar. I'd open the breaker box and confirm that the ground and neutral aren't just connected to the same bar. I've heard that sometimes happens.

I'm a little fuzzy on that part within the breaker box, but my understanding is that a 14-50 ground wire needs to connect to an earth ground, right?
 

macchiaz-o

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That's what I was gonna say too. And connected to the earth ground bar. I'd open the breaker box and confirm that the ground and neutral aren't just connected to the same bar. I've heard that sometimes happens.

I'm a little fuzzy on that part within the breaker box, but my understanding is that a 14-50 ground wire needs to connect to an earth ground, right?
This isn't quite right.

Yes, the ground wire should actually head back to the ground next to the house.

No, it shouldn't go to a different ground than somewhere else on the same house.

The neutral bus bar should be tied to ground at only ONE location, which is only within the primary load center for the house.

Some houses have more than one load center. Like mine. (The primary one off the wall of the living room, and one about 85 feet away inside the garage.) In the secondary panel in the garage, neutral and ground are NOT connected to each other. Neutral runs all the way back to the main panel where it goes to the main panel neutral bus bar, which is in turn going to ground.
 

dbsb3233

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This isn't quite right.

Yes, the ground wire should actually head back to the ground next to the house.

No, it shouldn't go to a different ground than somewhere else on the same house.

The neutral bus bar should be tied to ground at only ONE location, which is only within the primary load center for the house.

Some houses have more than one load center. Like mine. (The primary one off the wall of the living room, and one about 85 feet away inside the garage.) In the secondary panel in the garage, neutral and ground are NOT connected to each other. Neutral runs all the way back to the main panel where it goes to the main panel neutral bus bar, which is in turn going to ground.
That's what I meant (not that the outlet ground wire should be run to it's own separate grounding rod, but connected to the right grounding bar in the breaker box). But before I venture any deeper into something I'm not sure of (and thus part of why I hired an electrician), I'll leave it to those here that know for sure. My comment was just to suggest they check the beaker box to ensure the ground wire was connected to the right spot in the breaker box.
 

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Ford Mustang Mach-E Ford Charger for Mach-E NeutralGroundSameBus2

Pic above and below is normal service panel with main breaker disconnect


Ford Mustang Mach-E Ford Charger for Mach-E UYa08


Pic below is dislocated panel in another part of house (no main breaker)

Ford Mustang Mach-E Ford Charger for Mach-E 138-700x525

Pic below is what happens when you don't know what you'r doing !!

Ford Mustang Mach-E Ford Charger for Mach-E images
 
 




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